While some prefer the road less travelled, I tend to find that with age, I return to the roads well travelled. Every time I go back to a place filled with good memories, even though the places may have stayed the same, I find that I have changed, so the memory is always renewed and refreshed. I am always discovering something new. The best places exist in many layers like an unfurling onion that has a habit of slowly unravelling, revealing it’s various layers over time. Leipzig is one of those cities which keeps on peeling back its layers of history, revealing stories at every twist and turn. Like an invisible vortex, it keeps pulling me back for more. It wasn’t love at first sight. I first came in 2013 and hated it. I didn’t warm to the dreary soviet style architecture and plattenbau, prefab concrete buildings, a hangover from the GDR era. However, on a subsequent visit, many years later, I found myself in the more grungier and alternative district of Plagwitz and just fell in love with the area, the vibe and found the keys to the city.  I’ve also grown rather fond of the grim soviet style architecture in a weird, nostalgic kind of way. 

The street that I keep coming back to and falling in love with, every time is Karl Heine Strasse or KHS as locals call it. If I could afford it, I would live there in a heartbeat. It has become less gritty but there is that whiff of decadence, an edge and enough imperfections that still makes my pulse race. It does remind me of the reason I fell in love with Berlin all those years ago. However, lets be clear, Leipzig is not the new Berlin and is just Leipzig. No hype or more famous doppelgängers required. 

To give some context, Karl Heine is located in the former industrial neighbourhood of Plagwitz, in the city’s west. Originally a small village, which was heavily industrialized in the mid-1850s by the solicitor Karl Heine, post reunification, Plagwitz became the bohemian district of the city and home to lots of artists. It used to be a pretty run down area with lots of semi-derelict buildings with artists squatting in them and a handful of cafes but now the street has cleaned up nicely.

I always base myself around the corner of Karl Heine Strasse in a hostel called Multitude. Technically located in the equally hip neighbouring district of Lindenau but just a 10 minute walk from the beginning of Karl Heine, this is a really homely hostel with lots of light, beds with the perfect mattress for a great night’s sleep, a very spacious self catering kitchen, a good outdoor terrace for relaxing and a great onsite bar with fireplace, which attracts a nice mix of locals. It is one of those hostel that feels instantly like home which is the same way I feel about the city. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A post shared by Kash Bhattacharya (@budgettraveller)

So. Let me rewind to the most recent trip, just a few weeks back. After a quick shop for groceries at the Rewe supermarket next door to the hostel, we dust off the cameras and head off for THE walk. The weather had turned colder that day but after a few days of constant drizzle, the skies were baby blue and the pale sunlight was filtering through the rust rouge leaves, giving off an ethereal glow. The large willow trees arched over our heads in perfect symmetry as we entered Karl Heine, just like the opening pages of a fairytale. It was just pass noon and already a throng of locals were huddled around the tables of some of the cafes.

There is an enormous choice of places to eat in Karl Heine Strasse, so if you are a foodie, this is the street to visit.

It is the perfect day for a hearty bowl of soup and I know just the place – a Moroccan eatery called Salon Casablanca. Lovely well-priced food, lots of vegetarian options, good portion sizes and refreshing mint tea, I love coming here to try their tagines and soups. 

Next stop is Beard Brothers and Sisters, a vintage hole in the wall bar that serves the most scrumptious hot dogs and drinks. I have always wanted to come here in the past based on positive reviews from friends and happily they did not disappoint. Great dog, perfect bun, good range of toppings and sauces, plus if you come in the evening, they have local musicians performing in a small balcony above the bar. The food and the fun does not stop there.

We next visit  Westwerk, a former factory complex that has become the heart of the local creative scene with ateliers for artists, musicians and also home to a wide variety of affordable places to eat

I try Georgian food for the first time at Kleiner Kaukasus and it was so good. Owner Malkhazi prepares the Khachapuri in front of us – warm, soft flatbreads stuffed with molten cheese with a delicious topping of beetroot and cream.This was heavenly, melt in your mouth kind of food. Later in the trip we also popped into the next door Vietnamese diner, Bamboo’s Streetfood where on plastic tools you can sup on a bowl of Pho besides other specialities. Not the best pho but still, a very solid 8 out of 10 option if you are craving Asian flavours. I also have to mention Naumann’s Gaststube. Part of the Felsenkeller, a former ballroom turned live music and arts venue, it is worth visiting just to enjoy the grand interiors of this former neo-baroque building that dates back to 1890. Naumann’s Gaststube serves honest, working class people’s grub and I would highly recommend their schnitzel.

Westwerk is no longer a secret but still retains its creative, hippy vibe with a diverse mix of second-hand shops, artists‘ studios, yoga and tattoo studios, culinary venues such as Kleiner Kaukasus but also large billiard halls like the uber cool Mensa on the top floor. My favourite shop in the complex is Westfach where you find all kinds of beautiful things, from postcards and prints, ceramics, jewellery from local artists plus a great selection of vinyl and vintage items.

Opposite Westwerk, another local landmark I like to checkout for drinks, food and entertainment is the Schaubuhne Lindelfels. Housed in a magnificent Art Nouveau villa straight out of Paris, this functions as a bar by night, (order the house Gin and Tonic) cinema but also acts as a theatre and festival venue. On one of the nights, we were privileged to catch one of the acts at the annual Leipziger Jazz Festival. Sitting there in this 140 year old ballroom really is a magical experience. 

No trip to Karl Heine is complete without a traditional visit to one of the classic Photoautomats. The booth is one of the craziest I’ve ever seen, plastered with stickers, posters and graffiti. The photos are never great here but it is an experience sitting in that booth, a time travel machine of some sort and a connection to previous, younger naive versions of myself.

There are a few great bars on the street to checkout but if you visit just one bar, go to Noch Besser Leben, which means something like ‘Even better Living’. Such a great name for a pub and a sentiment to represent. It’s a favourite for local artists, musicians and students, actually anyone. It has that laidback rough around the edges charm, but is pretty friendly and a great place to meet locals.

At the end of Karl Heine Strasse there is a turning onto the Karl Heine canal path. Stretching for 3.3 kilometres, this is a beautiful walk, anytime of the year. In Autumn, it is especially magical with all the colours and the reflections in the water. Lined with historic villas to modern industrial lofts, the canal is also a great timeline of the city, another form of time travel where you walk from the past, straight into the future.

There are no doubt plenty more memorable places to visit in Leipzig and I’m sure with years to come, I’ll find something new and magical about Karl Heine Strasse. While we travel the four corners to see the world, in some people, places and streets we see the world and that is the magic of Leipzig and KHS for me. 

Disclaimer: My trip to Leipzig was made possible thanks to the kind support of Leipzig Tourismus but all the opinions, good and bad, are entirely mine. Thanks for reading and your continued support.

1. Breakfast at Best Western Hotel Via Regia

Start the day with the very filling buffet breakfast at the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where I had checked in the night before. A really stylish modern hotel, affordable too plus just a short walking distance from the train station.

From homemade bircher muesli to natural yoghurt and fresh fruits, cakes and doughnuts to smoked salmon -there’s something for everyone in the hotel breakfast. Plus you have unlimited fresh coffee, tea and juices. Loved the fact that lot of the items were locally sourced-from the bread and rolls to the mustard and Bauernmettwurst ( from Bautzen)

2. Enjoy the architecture

Walking Görlitz is a time travellers dream. With over 4500 listed buildings, the city is a timeline of all the major architectural styles of the last 3-4 centuries: from Baroque to Renaissance to Neoclassical to Art Deco, the range and style of buildings is incredible.Every corner, every twist and you’re in Babylon Berlin or 1920’s Paris – the city is like a movie set. The architecture of Gorlitz is best appreciated on foot-Gorlitz is a very compact city or to get a different perspective, climb to the top of the Rathaus Tower.

3. Visit the Grand Budapest Hotel

One of the reasons I was excited to visit Görlitz was to see the setting for the Grand Budapest Hotel- an abandoned, Art Nouveau department store in Görlitz called Görlitzer Warenhaus (An der Frauenkirche 5-7 )

Anderson found the space while location scouting for the movie and promptly fell in love with its unique, historical architecture. Thanks to the fantastic privileges of my day job, we got an whole hour to explore the building. Note: Despair not. You don’t need to be a blogger or have 5 million klubeks to visit ‘The Grand Budapest Hotel’ -you can visit the building for FREE only on Thursdays, Friday evenings only.  There’s definitely something about a movie setting coming to life right in front of your eyes. I recognise the exquisite stairways, elevators, and atrium of the building from the movie. At one point, I try to stop taking photos and keep my phone back in my pocket to soak it all in. The fact that the building remains abandoned and empty just adds more to the illicit charm of visiting the place. Visit soon though, the building has been acquired with plans to redevelop it into a luxury good store.

4. Visit the Untermarkt

The Untermarkt is the older of two market squares that are to be found in Gorlitz. This a beautiful square, featuring charming Renaissance buildings, cobblestone streets and overarching arcades. Keen movie lovers will be familiar with the square from movies like The Grand Budapest Hotel and Around the World in 80 days ( with Jackie Chan ) It has a timeless look and feel, very reminiscent of Vienna or Paris. The magical atmosphere of the square is enhanced by the odd busker and small cafes dotting the square where you’ll find a mix of tourists and locals enjoying a drink, or a bite to eat.

The Untermarkt is also host to festivals like Tippelmarkt and Altstadtfest. Some of the places to visit in and around the Untermarkt are the Rathaus (town hall), the Neues Rathaus, the Schonhof houses of the Silesian Museum, a Renaissance house in the middle of the Untermarkt called the Waage, the Brauner Hirsch- a baroque town house and the ‘Whispering Arch’ or Flüsterbogen.

5. Rathaus-Take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views of Gorlitz

Definitely take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views in Gorlitz. The city hall tower or Rathausturm was built in the 16th century. It’s best feature is the panoramic view it provides onto the town of Gorlitz but apart from that it has intricate clocks, sundials and an organ piping lion for special effect! There are two clocks in the tower: one is the moon phase clock that is part of the lunar calendar and the other clock has the head of a warrior, eye rolling and sticking out his tongue, every hour on the hour, set in the middle of the dial.

The Town Hall tour is available from March to December and only from Wednesday to Sunday. The designated meeting point is at the stairs of the Town Hall stairs, Untermarkt 6-8 (no reservation needed) Tours always run on the hour from 11am to 6pm. Duration of the tour is 45 minutes. Fee for the tour for adults is €4 and for children 6 to 14 years, the fee is €1,50

6. Lunch at Restaurant Destille

The Restaurant Destille is one of Gorlitz’s best restaurants where you can eat everything from lasagne, pasta, salads, steaks to more traditional local dishes like the famous Schlesisches Himmelreich which is pork roast, ham, dumplings, and stewed fruit in a white sauce.

7. Visit the Silesian Museum of Gorlitz

Silesia was once a culturally distinct country with its own history. Olden day Silesia was part of present day Poland with small parts in the Czech Republic and Germany. Gorlitz was selected as the location for the museum celebrating Silesian history because Gorlitz is Germany’s largest Silesian town. The Town of Gorlitz donated the museum building – the Schonhof (Beautiful Court) and later a museum administration building Zum Goldenen Baum (The Golden Tree) was acquired. The permanent collection offers a good glimpse into the history of Silesia. Here you can view the arts and crafts of the 17th to 19th centuries. Highlights from the collection include geographical views of Silesia, art objects from the Riesengebirge. Donations from the Silesian people abound here. Coins, ceramic and other beautiful artefacts can be seen here.

Address: Untermarkt 4, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

Hours: Tues-Thurs- 10am-5pm

Rates: Adults- €6, Concessions- €4

8. Whispering Arch” aka Flüsterbogen

Delight in a spot of secret whispering around the Whispering Arch or Flüsterbogen in the Untermarkt of Gorlitz. Whisper sweet nothings at one end of the overhead arch and a person positioned at the other end of the arch is perfectly poised to listen in. This is a little piece of magic in Gorlitz that should not be missed.

Address: Untermarkt, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

9. The Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences aka the Harry Potter Library of Gorlitz

Barely a few minutes walk on Neißstraße 30 is another gorgeous baroque house- The Kulturhistorisches Museum (cultural history museum) which houses the stunning Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences. The unique and beautiful library is arranged with beech shelves in the middle of the room, instead of along the walls. This gives the feeling and the grandeur of being on a stage and it really takes your breath away. The library often features on list of the most beautiful libraries in the world. It contains 40,000 volumes with numerous rarities and treasures, including medieval manuscripts and incunabula, which were the earliest printed books before 1501.

Essentials: The museum is open Tuesday – Sunday and admission is €5. Every Monday at 11am there is guided tour of the library.

10. Cross the Neisse river into Poland

A short walk across the 200 feet wide Altstadtbrücke (Old Town Bridge) will bring you to the other half of the city, the Polish city of Zgorzelec. The proximity of the two cities makes Görlitz a unique location where you can experience two countries and cultures in one place.The bridge only became fully accessible as late as 2007 when Poland gained accession to the EU. Once you cross the bridge, signs in a drab font advertising cheap cigarettes and booze giveaway the fact that you are now in Poland. A pretty row of restored houses lines the riverbank on the Polish side. One of them bears the plaque of its most iconic resident, Görlitz’s most famous son, Jacob Böhme, a philosopher and Christian mystic born in the 16th century. The house has a Jacob Böhme exhibition where you can learn more about his life. Enjoy a symbolic Zywiec beer at one of the restaurants lining the river. We chose Ristorante & Pizzeria Espresso-good prices and friendly staff.

11. Coffee and cake at Cafe Herztstuck

Cafe Herzstück (Weberstraße 2 ) was one of my finds from the trip- very alternative cafe with a focus on vegan and vegetarian cuisine plus great coffee. On the surface it seems like any other normal, cosy cafe but my eye spots a row of Singer sowing machines. Apparently you can come and rent the sowing machines by the hour. The cafe also organises book readings & concerts to praline chocolate making classes and table football classes-there’s something for everyone here.

12. Beers at Brauerei Bierblume

Formerly a brewery dating back to the 18th century, come and relax in the beautiful inner courtyard where you’ll find locals on wooden benches supping on their delicious homemade beer in large glass mugs-an oasis of calm and great beer in the city, definitely make a point to visit this brewery and say hello to the friendly Alex Klaus, the owner and brewer. Perfect place to end your day in Gorlitz.

Essential facts

Fly into Berlin or Dresden and then take the train to Görlitz . Trains run frequently between Dresden and Gorlitz ( €24, 1 to 1 1/2 hours) If you are coming from Berlin , change in Cottbus ( €44, 2 1/2 hours )

Where to stay in Görlitz

One of the best deals in town is the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where you can grab a private rooms for as little as €70 a night via Booking.com

Hotel rooms are modern, extremely comfortable and clean. The hotel serves a very generous buffet breakfast. Only minor drawback is the location- hotel is a 5 minute walk from the station and a bit far from the centre of town. Perfect if you have a car.

Another excellent budget option for couples or solo travellers is centrally located Görlitz “Old Town” Europe Youth Hostel. Located in a beautiful period building. ( one of the grandest buildings on the square-it really doesn’t like a hostel from outside ) the hostel has large inner courtyard that is perfect to relax in after a day of sightseeing, generous buffet breakfast plus simple but comfortable rooms-altogether this hostel is a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. Room prices start from €60 a night for a double and include breakfast. A bed in a multi bed dorm starts from €25 per person, per night and includes breakfast.

Disclaimer

My stay in Görlitz was possible thanks to the support of the Saxony Tourism Board who invited me to discover some of the region’s lesser known cities: Meissen, Görlitz and Bautzen. I’d like to take the opportunity to let you know that while my trip was supported by the tourism board, the article and all the views represented here are entirely mine. Thank you for reading.

Best things to do in Bochum

Credit: Karlheinz Jardner

1. German Mining Museum 

Address: Am Bergbaumuseum 28, 44791 Bochum

What to see in Bochum? The German Mining Museum in Bochum is a good start. The largest museum of its kind in the world and is devoted to the history and development of mining in the region. It is also a well respected mining research centre where the key focus is mining history. Above the ground there are various fascinating exhibits that demonstrate mining techniques and history. Below ground there is a reconstruction of  a mine that can be a wonderful experience to gain first hand knowledge of the process. The museum attracts a high footfall and has become a popular destination for tourists visiting this area. 

2. Bochum Dahlhausen Railway Museum

Address: Dr.-C.-Otto-Straße 191, 44879 Bochum

The Bochum Dahlhausen Railway Museum in the suburb of Dahlhausen is home to the largest museum of its kind in Germany. It is a wonderful place for railway and steam locomotive fans to step back in history and experience the bygone days of train travel. The museum was founded in 1977 and is located on an erstwhile railway depot built in 1916. The museum occupies a staggering 46000 square metres. Highlights of a visit here include a central engine shed with 14 tracks, cooling, watering and sanding facilities and a preserved turntable. The museum is part of the Ruhr Industrial Heritage trail. In the summer time there are organised train trips along with the occasional opportunity to board a steam train. This is a wonderful chance to nostalgically step back in time and experience train travel history in an unforgettable way.

Prices: Tickets are €10 for adults and kids, 6-14 pay €5

Note: Museum is closed for the winter season and reopens on 1st March, 2023.

3. Planetarium Bochum

Address: Castroper Str. 67, 44791 Bochum

Bochum Planetarium is a great place to learn about the stars and watch various fascinating shows about astronomy. The Zeiss Planetarium Bochum opened in 1964 and has a spectacular 20 metre diameter dome to project shows onto the dome roof. 260 people at a time can watch projections of the stars in the night sky and the entire atmosphere feels very special. Around the projection hall, there is a circular corridor that contains various exhibits of interest. Tickets to shows are 9.50 euros with reduced ticket rates available for children, students, apprentices, the handicapped, unemployed, volunteers and holders of a discount card among others. 

4. Catch a game at Vonovia Ruhrstadion

What do in Bochum on a weekend ? Well, if you are looking for something different and a great matchday experience, then Bochum who got promoted to the Bundesliga this year, are worth looking into. Matchday tickets starts from just €13. ( Checkout the official website:  – VfL BOchum offers day-tickets – fans have to check this site or instagram ). Also worth noting that transport is free on matchday in the Rhein-Ruhr area with the match ticket (the stadium is about a 20 minute walk from the city centre or a few stops on the U-Bahn). The stadium and the club itself has a really traditional feel to them and in my opinion that makes it more interesting to go and see a game here. Atmosphere is fantastic. Teams enter the pitch to “Tief im Westen” (in the deep west) song by local German superstar Herbert Groenemeyer. 

Capacity of the stadium is 28000. It is like a typical British stadium, the 4 stands enclose the ground and let you be really close to the pitch. They serve the local Fiege brew for a mere €4.2 for a half pint.

5. Checkout Bochum’s coolest neighbourhood- Ehrenfeld 

Similar to Dortmund’s Kreuzviertel, the hip neighbourhood of Ehrenfeld is a must visit – pop into one of the cool cafes, have a stroll through the streets, explore some of the independent shops and stop for a drink in one of the area’s many fine bars. Pop into the colourful Fräulein Coffea (Oskar-Hoffmann-Straße 34, 44789 Bochum) where you’ll find locals reading the paper or catching up with friends over their excellent coffee and range of cakes (vegan options too).

If you’re looking for original gift ideas from local designers, the cosy concept store, stueckgut ( Königsallee 12, 44789 Bochum) is worth a visit. You will find selected range of local brands, small fashion and clothing accessories and even sustainable and vegan backpacks. 

Walking around Ehrenfeld you will also notice a rich collection of fantastic street art which was the legacy of the Street Art Festival “WRIGHT” which was organized by the local Sold Out Gallery.

On Alte Hattinger Straße, on the left hand side of the cool concept store, Die Kulturtasche ( Alte Hattinger Straße 11), you will find  Zone 56’s meditation on the world of cyber and nature.

Just above Die Kulturtasche  you will find the three dimensionally beautiful work of André Silva aka TRAFIC, a Dortmund based street artist, with Portuguese roots and unmistakable handwriting.

For more about street art in Bochum, hop to this blogpost (it is in German).

6. Visit the Bermuda3eck, the action packed nightlife hotspot

With over 80 bars, cafes and restaurants, the Bermuda3Eck has been THE place to party in the Ruhr Valley. Especially when the weather is nice, you will find the party spilling from the bar terraces onto the street which gives the vibe of a big open air party.

In the Bermuda3eck you have to stop for a beer at Pinte Bochum  (Kortumstraße 11) a popular place for football fans before or after the match. It is the smallest pub in Bochum but in terms of atmosphere, range of local beers and service, one of the best.

If you’re more of a wine lover, then you should pay a visit to Le Kork Wine Bar (Konrad-Adenauer-Platz 3 44787). If you want to spend a few hours of wine tasting then you will love this  concept — load up a prepaid credit from €5 to €50 (if there is any money left, you get it back) depending on how much you want to drink and then tap your card and choose from 84 high class international wines which the help of their innovative self service wine dispensers.

7. Bonus tip: Do not leave Bochum without eating here

While Berlin may claim to have invented the Currywurst , in the Ruhr Valley, the food has iconic status and is THE pre and post match snack for football fans. Best place to try it here? The cult local butcher, Dönninghaus from Bochum, which was founded in 1935 by Otto Dönninghaus, is probably the best in the Ruhr area for the classic bratwurst with its iconic curry sauce whose composition is a carefully guarded family secret.

Further resources

For more ideas of things to do Bochum and the Ruhr Valley, checkout the Ruhr Valley Tourism website. If you are planning a football themed break to Bochum and the Ruhr Valley, checkout the Ruhr Fussball website.

If you are planning a long weekend in the area, you may want to checkout my recent guide to the best things to do in Dortmund

This post was produced in partnership with Germany Tourism and Ruhr Fussball project but the views represented here are my own.

Located in the North Rhine-Westphalia region of the country Dortmund proudly boasts its status as the country’s football hauptstadt. However, this former industrial giant also has a lesser known side where you can discover a great diverse cultural scene, beautiful green spaces to relax in cool hip neighbourhoods like the Kaiserviertel plus there is a fantastic food and drink scene. In this guide to the best things to do in Dortmund, you will get a feel of what this city has to offer, from its incredible football and industrial culture, to the best places to eat & drink in Dortmund.

1. Westfalenpark

A popular recreational spot in the city is the broad swathe of greenery comprising Westfalen Park. Covering an expanse of 70 hectares it is one of the largest inner city parks in Europe. Some of the key places to visit inside the park include the Florianturm or the TV and Radio Tower, home to the German Rose Society. The Kaiserhain pond, the Forest-of-the-Mills pond with its central open air stage are other places to visit. The park is strewn with beautiful flower beds, fountains, geese, many kinds of birds and wildlife. An ideal place to hike, ride a bicycle or simply enjoy the serenity of nature on a park bench.

Address: An d. Buschmühle 3, 44139 Dortmund

2. Florianturm

The Florianturm is a key highlight of a trip to Westphalen Park and is the landmark TV and Radio Tower. Built in 1959, at the time it was the highest free standing structure in Germany, standing tall at 720 feet. It has a construction design resembling a concrete chimney, with a tapering top. At various levels along the tower there are various features, like a revolving restaurant, upper and lower observation decks and operation rooms. It is the perfect place to gain an aerial view over Dortmund.

Address: Florianstraße 2, 44139 Dortmund

3. Museum Ostwall

The present home of Museum Ostwall is a seven storey tower, known as the U-Tower. It is the museum of modern and contemporary art in Dortmund. The museum’s collection was started in the 1940’s and was moved to the current location around 2010. Some of the treasures of the collection include paintings, sculptures, photographs and objects of interest. Pieces from the collection that are not to be missed include works from Wassily Kandinsky, Franz Marc, August Macke and Alexej von Jawlensky. The Gröppel Collection is another museum highlight. Graphics from Joan Miró, Chagall, Dali and Picasso, also grace the museum.

Address: U-Dortmund, Leonie-Reygers-Terrasse 2, 44137 Dortmund

4. Brewery Museum Dortmund

The Brewery Museum of Dortmund is a museum dedicated to the history of beer brewing in Dortmund, a tradition that dates back to the nineteenth century. Beer tastings and tours are available. The museum is open all days except Monday, although museum tours occur on Sundays. Some of the interesting exhibits on offer include the chance to view vintage brewing equipment and curios from the heyday of beer making. Vintage beer dispensers that dispensed a beer a day to factory workers, bottling machines , packaging and old advertisements are all on display. Dortmund was the home of more than 30 breweries with the glory days of beer making happening in the 1950’s. Anyone interested in the process and history of making beer, will find this an enlightening experience.

Address: Steigerstraße 16, 44145 Dortmund

5.Deutsches Fussball Museum

A good place to start your footballing pilgrimage is the Deutsches Fussball Museum in Dortmund. This vast shrine to the nation’s passion and obsession is a place of pilgrimage not only for German football fans. Inside a futuristic building next to the Hauptbahnhof is an emotional multimedia and sometimes interactive tribute to the game and Germany’s role in shaping its history. Learn about stars such as Franz Beckenbauer, relive historic matches or fancy yourself a commentator. The treasure chamber holds replicas of the four World Cups and three European trophies won by the Mannschaft (Germany’s national team). Online tickets are a couple of euro cheaper.

Address: Platz der Deutschen Einheit 1, 44137 Dortmund

6. Stadium tour at the Signal Iduna Park

If you can’t get tickets to a Dortmund game, the next best thing is to get a tour of the stadium, the Signal Iduna Park. The Signal Iduna Park on Strobelallee is Germany’s largest football stadium with a capacity of exactly 81,365. The stadium is often referred to as the “temple of German football” thanks to the proximity to the pitch, the acoustics thanks to its complete roofing and the unique passion the fans in the Ruhr have for the beautiful game.

The tours allow you to have an extensive look at the stadium’s facilities that are otherwise off the limits. These include the VIP areas, tunnels that lead to the pitch, club museum, press room, and more. The stadium tour is also a chance to to witness the southern terrace, known as the “Gelbe Wand”, “Yellow Wall” where 24,454 fans make themselves heard on this stand.

These tours are run at specific times of the day. Even though there is no special need to register for the tours in advance, it is better that fans do the same if they have special requests. All the tickets can be purchased online and it is not possible to choose a date when matches are held. One can expect the tour to last for around 90 minutes in the basic version, while it would extend to 120 minutes in the PLUS version.

Address: Strobelallee 50, 44139 Dortmund

7. Explore industrial heritage on a skywalk tour through Phoenix West, a former steel works in Dortmund

For over 160 years, the industrial complex of Phoenix West was an icon for the city of Dortmund and the region of North Rhein-Westphalia, whose economy was based on coal and steel. Steel production in Dortmund ended with the closure of Phoenix West in 1998 and Phoenix East in 2001. The former blast furnace works are a reminder of Dortmund’s rich industrial history.

You can enjoy amazing views of the entire Phoenix West industrial heritage complex and the dramatic Dortmund skyline, thanks to a 26-meter-high steel footbridge built over the old blast furnace gas line.  You can also see the stadium, the Florian Tower in Westfalenpark and also the Bergmann brewery.  The Skywalk and the entire Phoenix-West plant are currently only accessible as part of guided tours. Guided tours take place on fixed dates, the number of participants is limited. Tickets can be purchased from the city of Dortmund’s tourism portal. The current price for a tour is 15 euros per person, but experience has shown that the tours are always booked out quickly.

Where to eat and drink in Dortmund

8. Head to Dortmund’s Kreuzviertel

If you have time to kill before the game and want to get a snapshot of what local life is in Dortmund, definitely make some time for Kreuzviertel which lies on the way to stadium. It is a colourful neighbourhood brimming with hip cafes and restaurants, lots of independent shops plus a good concentration of bars.

We stopped by kieztortchen, a cute cafe with a very nice outdoor terrace which serves really good cakes plus great coffee.

If you’re looking for a gift with a difference, then the concept store Unterhaltung is a great place to drop by. You will find a whole range of items here, from designer bags and rucksacks to coffee table books, candles, local organic chocolate, craft beers and gin – you will be spoilt for choice.

We did not have time for food but locals recommended Babuschkas Kitchen (Kreuzstraße 69, Dortmund) for their hearty Ukrainian food, from pancakes with different fillings to dumplings and borscht all served in bright, cheerful interiors.

9. Tip: Enjoy a snack and/or a beer at Bergmann Brewery in Phoenix West

Dortmund and beer. It’s like foot and ball or fish and chips. Dortmund was once home to several breweries which earned it the moniker ‘Bierstadt’. While the people of Dortmund no longer spend their monthly wage packet at the pub, beer still plays an important role in the city. While there has been a marked decline in breweries, in 2005 a new independent brewery was born that now dominates the scene in Dortmund: Bergmann beer.

Matching the Ruhrpott DNA, the beer is advertised with the slogan ‘Hard work, honest reward‘. While the miners are no longer here, the culture of the feierabend after-work beer is still popular which is why Bergmann built a brewery right next to the old blast furnace plant on PHOENIX West in Hörde.

As a visitor, you can not only take part in tours of the pitch-black painted brewery – and of course have a sip or two. There is also a food truck on site Thursdays through Sundays .

This post was produced with the kind support of Germany Tourism and Ruhr Tourismus GmBH but all views, opinions are entirely my own.

Berlin has been our base for the last 5 years. It is a city that even after all these years, I’m still discovering. It has so many rich and complex layers of history – there is never a dull moment here. Even though Berlin and Munich are like chalk and cheese with a very different architectural style, history and feel, Berlin too like Munich ( checkout my socially distant yet fun 48 hour Munich itinerary here ) has many wide open green spaces that are a sanctuary in a busy city like Berlin. I thought it would be great to create a guide on the best outdoor activities Berlin has to offer. ( Perfect, if you are visiting Berlin in the summer )

Despite being a busy, dense metropolis, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities. On the doorstep of Berlin you have the beautiful area of Brandenburg crisscrossed by countless lakes, dense forests and rich and thought provoking pockets of history. I hope you enjoy my Spreewald itinerary but I would also urge you to find the time to visit Potsdam which is also one of the best day trips from Berlin 

PS: If you haven’t already, do checkout my guide to cool things to do in Berlin on a budget, my self guided free walking tour Berlin Mitte , self guided free walking tour of Berlin Wedding, one of Berlin’s upcoming districts. Also definitely checkout Sam Wood’s 15 free things to do in Berlin and if you are person who virtually travels the world through movies, you definitely should checkout my 10 movies that inspired me to visit Berlin 

Day 1

AM-Treptower Park

A good place to start your journey of discovering Berlin is through exploring one of its many beautiful parks. Treptower Park is one of my favourite parks in Berlin, situated in the south-central corner of Berlin, near the river Spree in Alt-Treptow. It’s a treasure trove of many unusual interesting places, each with their own history, that all combine to create a fascinating place. The park has enjoyed  many incarnations. It was originally the site of the Great Industrial Exposition of Berlin of 1896. Later it was also the venue for a large open-air concert by a western band, Barclay James Harvest in 1987, the first of its kind after the formation of the GDR.

The most prominent feature of the park you must see is the monumental Soviet War Memorial (the largest Soviet memorial outside Russia), built to mark the loss of lives of 80,000 Soviet soldiers who perished in the Battle of Berlin in 1945. Not only is the memorial a tribute to the memory of fallen Soviets, it is also the last place of rest for many soldiers.

The Memorial consists of several striking features that include: a statue of a Soviet soldier with a German child, yielding a sword and poised over a destroyed Swastika, a central green landscaped area with 16 stone sarcophagi placed at regular intervals, embellished with relief work of military scenes with Stalin quotes. At another spot, there are also a pair of red granite portals, shaped to resemble the Soviet flag.

The memorial is currently being renovated but the red granite portals are still visible.

Walking along the Spree River, you get a different perspective of the park. You’ll spot the iconic Abbey Bridge arching over the Spree to the Island of Youth or Insel der Jugend. This bridge was the first composite steel bridge of its kind to be made in Germany. Pre-Corona, the island would host events and concerts but in the current day it is a popular place to chill by the river and enjoy a drink in the Island garden. If time permits, you can also rent boats or a canoe and enjoy the park from the perspective of the river.

Lunch: Sahara Imbiss

Prepared with fresh ingredients, Sudanische takeaway, Sahara Imbiss, is one of the Berliners’ favourite cheap eats since 2010. Encased in a freshly toasted pita bed roll, with a choice of fillings ranging from their delicious falafel made on the premises to halloumi, kofta, chicken or fohl beans, all topped up with their signature peanut sauce. For €3, it is a steal. Don’t leave Berlin without eating here.

We dined in their outlet near Treptower Park in Neukolln but they also have 3 separate outlets in Kreuzberg and one in Schöneberg. Checkout their website for more details.

Afternoon- Gardens of the World ( Marzahn Hellersdorf)

Our next stop brings us to the beautiful Gardens of the World-another perfect place to pause, in the midst of this busy city.

Situated on the eastern fringes of the city in the heart of Berlin’s Marzahn neighbourhood, this place really transports you to different world, thanks to the presence of ten very different gardens, which draw inspiration from various countries and cultures across the world.

The Gardens were built in 1987 to commemorate the 750th Birthday of the city. The concept revolves around its variously themed gardens, representing gardening styles from around the globe. Visitors can venture into the Italian Renaissance Garden, the Chinese Garden of the Recovered Moon, Gardens from Bali, the Middle East, Korea and even a Christian themed Garden.

We had limited time and could only visit the Flower Garden, Oriental Garden, the English Garden and the Korean Garden. You could easily dedicate half a day or longer to explore the gardens.

If I was to pick my favourite out of all the gardens, I would say the Oriental Garden. Constructed over 2 years and designed according to the principles of Qu’ran’s Surah, stepping into the gardens transports you to a different world with its arcades, exotic plants, the magnificent water fountains and the exquisite mosaics. For a few moments you could be in Granada, Seville or Marrakech.

Afterwards, I would recommend hopping on the Seilbahn aka Ropeway to get a nice aerial perspective of the gardens. You also get a birds eye view of the infamous Marzahn’s endless string of GDR-era concrete tower blocks – a glimpse into an alternate reality.

Late afternoon: Tempelhofer Feld

If riding an e-bike (with top speeds of 20 mph) on an abandoned airfield sounds like your cup of tea, don’t demur from visiting Tempelhofer Feld.

Historically, this field was used for military practice, as part of the Berlin Garrison’s stomping grounds. Nowadays, it has achieved an alternate purpose.

In the 1920’s an airport was built on this site. Nowadays Tempelhofer Feld is a public park with 386 hectares dedicated to recreational purposes. A cycling and jogging trail, a dog walking area, and plenty of picnic spots for barbecuing during the summer – this is a popular meeting point for Berliners and a must visit during your trip to Berlin.

You can hire a scrooser or e-trike (they also have hoverboards, segways, e-wheels) from Steckdose Berlin. Their rental office is a 200 metre walk from the Tempelhofer Damm entrance close to the S&U-Bahn Tempelhof station.

To give you an idea of costs, for hiring the E-Trikes for 30 minutes, it costs €15 or €25 for an hour.

Sunset drinks at Klunkerkranich

Perfect place to wrap up the day is in Klunkerkranich, an urban beer garden near Karl-Marx-Strasse 66 and the perfect place for sunset drinks. Klunkerkranich (translates to the ‘wattled crane’) has a beautiful rooftop bar where you can nestle in between the fragrant flower boxes and sip on Berlin’s best ale. There’s lots of well spaced out seats so social distancing is not an issue here. The views of Berlin’s red roofs and the TV Tower – ever present in the distance, are the best way to end your first day in Berlin.

Afterparty-Pawn Dot Com Bar and Loft 41

Situated on the party mile of Berlin, Torstrasse, the name Pawn Dot Com is a nod towards the historic roots of the building, which used to function as a royal pawnshop, as the historic inscription above the gate passage reveals. The drinks menu revolves around a novel concept where you can choose from twelve drinks , each of which are served alongside a sideshot, something that ideally complements the main drink. For example you can savour a Pornstar Martini with a glass of champagne served separately. It is a vibrant place with a grungy, graffiti strewn neon lit interior that might be out of a Bladerunner set. Fun place, drinks. Not cheap by any means at around €15 a cocktail but a cool experience and nice friendly bartenders.

Finish your bar crawl with another epic rooftop bar – Loft 14 situated as you may have guessed from the name, the 14th floor of the Vienna House Andel hotel. You get a wonderful view of Berlin’s skyline from this bar and a great selection of classic cocktails served with some tasty popcorn. Again, not cheap (around €15) by Berlin standards but you’re paying for a unique view, ambience and the drink of course.

Late night snack- Currywurst!

Also, if you are coming to Berlin, you can’t leave without having the city’s iconic dish, the Currywurst. It’s basically a diced up classic german wurst with a lot of ketchup and dollops of curry powder on top – might not sound too appetising but it’s tasty. One of the decent places to try is CurryMitte on Torstrasse (perfect if you are going to Pawn Dot Com) or Curry 61 in Hackescher Markt (Curry 61 also have a decent vegan version).

Day 2

Day trips from Berlin: Spreewald 

A UNESCO biosphere reserve knitted together by 400 km of natural and man-made waterways that are perfect to get lost, Spreewald is the perfect social distancing-friendly day break from Berlin. Just an hour by train from Berlin, with its lush dense forests and thousands of miles of waterways, coming to Spreewald feels like a tropical Amazonian world far away from Berlin.

How to get there

The best way to get to Spreewald is by the RE2 train that leaves on the hour from Berlin Central Station with stops at Alexanderplatz and Ostkreuz. The journey time to Lubbenau is about an hour (don’t get off at the stop before, Lubben – I was confused and almost disembarked there but thankfully some people on the train stopped me). If you are travelling with loved ones or family the Berlin-Brandenburg day ticket that is €33 for 2 people, is excellent value and covers your return trip to Lubbenau from Berlin plus is valid on all public transport within Berlin.

Lubbenau

There’s two important key things that make Lubbenau a pretty unique and memorable town. First of all, Lubbenau is the”city of cucumbers”;  which have been grown and pickled here since the 8th century. Near the harbour, about a 15 minute stroll into the town centre, you’ll find the ‘Gurkenmeile’, a dedicated outdoor marketplace where you can sample a range of pickled delicacies- besides trying pickled cucumbers. Try also the horseradish-delicious stuff.

Another unusual local tipple you might want to sample at the market is their local Kräuterlikör aka herbal liqueur, the Spreewald Bitter, an original East German herbal liqueur. It is best enjoyed either as an aperitif or digestif- give it a shot.

The best way to explore Spreewald’s is by boat – you have two options. Right by the Gurkenmeile you will find yourself at the scenic Spreewald Harbour, a popular starting points for boat trips into the Spreewald. The wooden boats with their lovingly laid tables are Spreewald’s answer to Venice’s iconic gondolas. If you’re looking for an idyllic and relaxed ride along the rivers of Spreewald, go for this.

The other more adventurous option of traversing the magical water world of Spreewald is to hire a canoe by the hour or for the day. AS some of you may know, I can’t swim and am pretty terrified about being on water. That said, with the river being waist deep, I felt ok but I was feeling pretty nervous to begin with. Luckily, Sabrina was a calming influence at the back of the boat. We had the option of having the boat for the day but went for a 3 hour spin along the canals via the town of Lehde. Once my initial panic subsided, I started to enjoy the meditative silence of this awe inspiring beautiful forest, the silence occasionally broken by the sound of birds and the wonderful gushing, gurgling sound of surface water breaking as our oars propelled us gently forward. Also, with no motorised boats allowed to operate on the canals, it is pretty chill.

How to rent

We rented our 2 seat kayak from the lovely Bootshaus Kaupen. Our paddle boats came from their family workshop, carrying on a tradition of boat building for almost 100 years.

Renting the 2 seat kayak for the day starts from €25.50. A 1 person kayak starts at €18.50 a day. 

Covid safety regulations

All paddles, water hiking maps and seats are disinfected before/after each rental. There is a hand disinfection station at the boat rental. Customary textile back cushions for reasons of hygiene are not provided but you can bring your own.

Lunch: ‘Gasthaus Wotschofska’

After dropping off the kayak we decided to hike to Gasthaus Wotschofska’.

A 8 km round hike from Lubbenau, situated on the Alder Island, until 1911, the guesthouse could only be reached by water. Situated at a slight elevation and due its inaccessibility, the island and the guesthouse have always been a place of refuge to people in times of need. Previously accessible by boat only, since the walkway was constructed, the restaurant has become a popular place with walkers.

The log cabin built in the style of a hunting lodge seems straight out of a Wes Anderson movie and is a beautiful place to linger after a relaxed hike through the forest.

Serving up a generous portions of classic German comfort food, combined with excellent local beers, visiting the guesthouse was definitely a highlight of our day out in Spreewald.

If time permits: Visit the Freilandmuseum Lehde

If you’re keen to learn what life was like in Spreewald in the 19th century and a historical re-enactment enthusiast to boot, then you should also squeeze out an hour to check the Freilandmuseum ‘open air’ museum in Lehde. A reconstructed 19th-century village complete with costumed actors, visitors can indulge in a bunch of interactive activities ranging from milking a goat to walking in wooden shoes or even building a proper Spreewald log cabin.

Where to stay in Berlin: The Student Hotel Berlin

A student accommodation, hotel and co-living hybrid, Student Hotel is one of the few hospitality concepts that has defied convention over the years and revolutionised the budget accommodation sector with their wonderful mix of brilliant design, great hospitality and amazing facilities at a very reasonable price- it’s a cool design hotel with the DNA of a a luxury hostel. I’ve been a huge fan of their concept since they launched several years back in Amsterdam and have been following their fortunes with great interest and excitement.

Let’s start with the location: just next door to Jannowitzbrucke U-Bahn and S-Bahn station, it’s very central and well connected for tourists looking to reach all parts of the city.

The rooms, as is standard with TSH hotels are fantastic -an amazing mattress so you have the best nights sleep, stylish bedside lamps and plugs, storage space for luggage plus ensuite showers with powerful rain showers – love it. Best feature in the rooms is the Nespresso machine which offers you the perfect way to start your day. The other standout feature of TSH Berlin are the facilities – they have a free small, well equipped gym which is a great luxury to have when you spend a lot of time on the road and need to keep in shape. Plus if you’re working on the road and a digital nomad you have the convenience of working from their quiet co-working spaces on site – this saves you the hassle of trying to find an expensive co-working space for the day.

TSH Berlin also has an onsite restaurant called the Commons where they have a diverse menu with everything from Gourmet Burgers (start from €10) to daily specials (Starts at €9.50)

They do run a happy hour from 5-7pm.

PS Checkout my earlier guide to the best budget places to stay in Berlin

Disclaimer

My trip to Berlin was possible, thanks to a collaboration with the German National Tourism Office. However, all the opinions and suggestions expressed here are entirely my own, with a little influence from my other half, Sabrina Wulf.

Huge thanks to Denise, Josefine, Helena and the rest of the team at GNTO for making this amazing trip and collaboration possible.

I’ve had the pleasure of living in Germany on and off for 9 years now. I’m proud to call it home nowadays. One of the question I often get from friends visiting is what popular German food and dishes they should try when they visit. I’ll admit, initially I wasn’t the biggest fan of German food culture. My idea of traditional foods in Germany, ( much to Sabrina’s frustration ) was rostbratwurst ( roasted sausages) , sauerkraut and fried potatoes- a dish I still love. The general perception of the most typical German dish is still very much the plate of food they would eat at Oktoberfest or currywurst. Reality is that German food is much more varied , weird with lots of interesting variations from region to region. Yes, there are potatoes almost with everything but then again, all the best things in life must have potatoes-am I right? ( and rice ) I’d like to demystify German cuisine and help you get a better understanding of the variety it has to offer and what better way to introduce you to German cuisine by talking about all the weird traditional food dishes you can order in Germany and where you can eat them.

1.Bremer Knipp

I’ll start the series of weird traditional German food with the Bremer Knipp, a sausage meat that comes from the Hanseatic town of Bremen. The sausage, available in the form of a stick (‘stange’) or roll (‘rolle’) is a hybrid of minced pork belly, head and rind, that is mixed with oatmeal to give it a heartier texture. All spice, salt and pepper and herbs can add layers of flavour to the Knipp.

The Bremer Knipp may look a tad unappealing ( bit like its Scottish cousin, Haggis) but when fried in butter and thickly applied to a generous hunk of wholemeal bread, can make for a delicious and filling dish.

The Knipp can be eaten with roast or boiled potatoes. Alternatively, pickled gherkins or apple sauce can add a piquant touch to this meaty repast.

Where to eat Bremer Knipp

Pop into Schüttinger Gasthausbrauerei in Bremen for the Bremer Knipp and wash it down with their delicious brewed beer. From 5 till 8pm they run a happy hour where you get small glasses ( 100 ml) of beer for €1 and the Maß (1l) for 5€!

Curious to read more about Bremen-checkout this guide to Bremen I wrote from my first trip to the city back in 2012.

2.Currywurst

Currywurst is the unexpected but not unappealing marriage of the German Bratwurst sausage and ketchup doused with Indian curry powder. The dish was the brainchild of a Berlin lady, Herta Heuwer, who started selling this unusual dish from a street stand in Berlin’s Charlottenburg district. The sausages were boiled and fried and then smothered in a tomato ketchup seasoned with curry powder, obtained by British soldiers. This sauce, named ‘Chillup’ was later patented by Heuwer. The cheap and delicious street snack was popular with construction workers whose task it was to rebuild the city after the ravages of the Second World War. At the peak of its popularity, the street stand was serving up 10,000 portions every week and later, due to popular demand, was turned into a more permanent restaurant. A plaque in Charlottenburg, stands to this day, engraved with the name of the lady responsible for feeding hoards of people involved with reviving the city of Berlin.

Where to eat currywurst in Berlin

My go to place for currywurst in Berlin is Curry 61 in Hackescher Markt. They also have a vegan version plus their fries are not too shabby.

3. Schweinshaxe (German Pork Knuckle)

Schweinshaxe is undoubtedly pork meat but when the fine mound of meat is presented on your plate, you might be curious to find out which part of the pig, the impressive joint of meat is derived from.

‘Schweinshaxe’ is nothing but roasted ham hock. The hock is the lower extremity of the pig’s leg, just above the ankle but not including the juicy and meaty ham portion. In anatomical terms, it’s the part of the hog’s leg in between tibia fibula and metatarsals.

The pork hock was originally a popular peasant’s meal, where cuts that were not as palatable or tender as the juicy joints of the pig were prepared at low cost. Marinated for longer periods to render the meat soft and cooked for longer, ‘Schweinshaxe’ can be eaten with potatoes and cabbage on the side. For a perfect ‘Schweinshaxe’, the knuckle has to be roasted for hours to crisp, crackling perfection. Doused with heaps of gravy, this can make for a memorable meal. Just don’t feel intimidated by the generous size of the meat.

Where to eat Schweinshaxe

In Bavaria you can have excellent ‘Schweinshaxe’ at the Augustiner Braustuben ( Landsberger Str 19, Munich )

4. Labskaus

This culinary specialty from the north of Germany (particularly Bremen, Lubeck and Hamburg) used to be a poor person’s food: leftovers — corned beef, beets, onions, boiled potatoes — are mashed together. The resulting puree is not very appetizing-looking, but at least it’s partly hidden under a fried egg, served with herring and pickles. As unusual as it sounds, the dish is having a revival — Labskaus is now served in fancy restaurants.

Historically, the dish was popular among sailors in the big northern port cities, in particular. Potatoes and salted meat would keep well on voyages and the addition of potatoes would enlarge portion size of the meal and be filling. The dish has many regional variations. Even outside the country it can be compared to British hash, various Scandinavian variants utilizing local ingredients like herring instead of beef for instance.

Where to eat Labskaus

Head to the Lübeck institution, Im Alten Zolln which has been serving locals since 1589. Try their Labskaus or pickled herring with fried potatoes and onions in cream sauce. Pair it with the local Jever or Haake Beer.

5. Raw minced pork sandwich (Mettbrötchen)

Mett is a spiced, minced pork preparation which is eaten raw. The raw part of the description is most unusual and to my mind honestly quite concerning, but in Germany it is a popular dish with the mett served up in many forms. Typically, the minced pork is spread over a roll of bread and is called ‘Mettbrötchen’ with raw onions as garnish. Sometimes, the minced pork can be moulded into the shape of a hedgehog, with olive shaped eyes and nose and quarter rings of onions as hedgehog spikes. The pork hedgehog or ‘Mettigel’ is a centrepiece at buffets sometimes. Despite the fact that the meat is eaten raw, there are health and safety practices enforced regarding the serving of the Mett. These include not allowing the temperature of the food to exceed 2 degrees Celsius, the pork being processed in a state of semi-frozen ness and the food having to be consumed on the day of production.

Where to eat Mettbrötchen

I always enjoy snacking at Mettbrötchen at any of the outlets of Junge Die Bäckerei, popular bakery that you will find in most cities in Northern Germany which include, Lubeck, Hamburg and also Berlin.

6. Spargel

‘Spargel’ or the German White Asparagus might not look so appetizing, but trust me when I say it is worthy of its accolade of ‘white gold’ in the vegetable kingdom. There’s a good reason why it is considered ‘white gold’. The reason is that the rather limp looking morsels of white asparagus have a milder flavour than green asparagus, with a delightful tender texture that pairs well with a rich smothering of sauce, preferably hollandaise. The spargel are slightly sweet to eat with a hint of bitterness. The asparagus is typically grown covered in soil to prevent photosynthesis – hence the absence of green colouring. Eat Spargel with a rich sauce, a nice side of Black Forest Ham, potatoes or even thinly sliced boiled eggs. Spargel is deserving of its name ‘white gold’. If you can buy the vegetable pre-peeled then that saves on the preparation time. Enjoy Spargel in soups, salads as appetizer or mains.

Where to eat Spargel in Berlin

Spargel season starts in April in Germany and lasts till June.  If you are visiting Berlin during Asparagus season do visit the Mars Restaurant in Berlin’s Wedding district ( checkout my Berlin Wedding guide ) and also checkout the Visit Berlin blog for their 11 tips for restaurants that serve white asparagus in season.

Disclaimer- This post was in partnership with Germany Tourism and Traverse as part of a campaign to promote German Local Culture. If you want to dig deeper into German Food Culture, have a peek at their site 

It was a similar misty, moody day at the end of the summer. South of Dresden, the landscape becomes widescreen, spread out like a Super 8 film and terraced vineyards arch steeply into your view. They stand sturdily upright, protectively framing the terraced landscape, as they’ve done dutifully, for almost the last 850 years. I close my eyes and imagine what the valley would have looked like back in the 12th century. The area had been considered something of an economic backwater, undeveloped and unloved until a senior member of the Catholic Church, Bishop Benno had the grand idea of planting vines there, which legend dictates, was to help cultivate wine for his Holy Mass. An unusual intervention but then again as Europe’s most northern wine growing region, the Sachsen wine region has always defied the norm. Even when the odds have been stacked against them. After overcoming the steep decline in temperatures that swept Europe in the 18th/19th century (that turned Sachsen wine into a sour, unforgettable mess), in early 19th century, Saxony was hit by the Philoxmena plague that destroyed the vines. That, combined with the fact that large breweries of the time reduced the price of their beer, sounded the death knell of the wine industry. After the barren years of communism, wine making in the region has made a comeback in the post reunification era, thanks to the joint collective efforts of independent winemakers in the region.

Now there’s even a wine route for you to follow and help discover the region.  Winding its way for almost 60 km along the Elbe River, the Saxon Wine Route was established in 1992 to help hikers discover Germany’s smallest wine growing region. It is a beautiful trail that promises a fantastic mix of beautiful vineyards, cosy traditional wine cellars, historic towns, sophisticated architecture along the river Elbe, between the starting point which is in Pirna and the  end in Diesbar-Seußlitz.

There are a number of ways to discover the region, depending on the time of the year and how much time you have on hand. You can tackle the route through individual legs, circular walks, or go for the whole distance. We started in the middle with Radebeul, at the gates of Saxony’s gorgeous baroque capital, Dresden.

Radebeul is a dreamy little town. It has this lovely relaxed laid back vibe, thanks to the impressive hillside vineyard landscape edging up from the Elbe. There are lots of artist workshops, galleries and cute boutique shops to explore plus you have one of the oldest narrow gauge railway lines in Germany, where nostalgia evoking steam trains chug their way to neighbouring Radeberg.

In addition there are a bunch of independent wineries, which form the basis of one of the town’s most popular events, the Radebeul Winefest. Celebrated at the end of September to mark the onset of Autumn, the festival besides marking the initial wine harvest also takes place in parallel with the Internationales Wandertheater Festival (International Itinerant Theatre Festival).

You have an intoxicating combination of Radebeulers chugging down the sweet young Federweisser wine and at the same time art, clowns, musicians and actors turning the cobbled streets into a stage. With all the wineries of the Saxon Wine Route showcasing their wines, it is the perfect introduction to the route.

In what becomes a bit of a ritual in the days to come, I wake up at the crack of dawn to catch the most magical sunrise by the Elbe.The autumn mist hangs mystically in the air creating this cauldron of deep blue smoke. I don’t know whether it’s the hangover still talking (another ritual I would develop over the days to come) but for a few split seconds, the Elbe for a brief moment, seems to rise above me, serpent like, into the hazy morning sky.

The mist lifts, sky breaks to reveal the most glorious Autumnal sunny morning. My head, still aches from all that delicious Federweisser so it’s perfect timing to head to one of the wine route’s most famous and popular wineries, Schloss Wackerbarth.

Exquisitely Saxon is the motto of Schloss Wackerbarth but can be applied to most vineyards here. One of the distinguishing characterstics of vineyards like Schloss Wackerbarth are their centuries old steep vineyards bounded by dry stone walls. Maintaining these stone walls, some hundreds of years old, is an expensive setup that demands a great deal of manual care. Working the vines, on these steep terraces is a real labour of love, a lot more exhausting than simply driving a tractor through a flat field of vines.

The end result is pretty special. The grapes are handpicked. The vines deliver incredibly mineral, intensely flavored grapes. Also the grapes here achieve a surprising ripeness, odd, considering their northern latitude. When you consider the small quantities these wines are produced and their local popularity, finding them outside of Germany, or even outside of Saxony for that fact is quite difficult, what you sample here is unique. That’s what makes any trip along the Saxon Wine Route, a very special experience.

Exquisitely Saxon. In my mind, the motto symbolises the Saxon way  of wine harvesting and other things in life: exquisitely hard, but ultimately one that has the best end result in mind. Keeping that motto to heart we hike to the neighbouring winery of Hoflößnitz. Sometimes dubbed the ‘stairway to heaven’, walking up the old stone staircase of the winery, almost out of breath, I do feel for a few moments close to heaven. I reach out my hands to see if I can touch the infinite blue and then stare away disappointed, only to be gifted the most stunning panoramic view – the winery and the iconic Belvedere, where only just moments before I had been enjoying a glass of delicious Sekt.

After an hour jaunt we pass the famous Spitzhaus staircase, where from the top of its 397 stairs, you get a fantastic panoramic view of Radebeul. If you’ve timed your ascent perfectly, you’ll spot in the distance, the impressive sight of the Radebeul-Radeburg  steam locomotive winding its way through the Lößnitzgrund. It is a great place for a picnic which was what we did. If you are glutton for punishment, the Spitzhaus is also home to Mount Everest Treppenmarathon, which the website site of the German Ultramarathon Association describes the run as “the heaviest and largest extreme stair run in the world”. The idea is to the climb the length of Mount Everest in upto 24 hours. 8,848 meters can be covered in 100 laps. Not, for me. Lets get back to the wine.

Hoflößnitz winery is the cradle of Saxon viticulture, representing a 600 year proud history of wine culture on the slopes of Losnitz. The vineyards dates back to 1203 when Wettin Margrave Wilhelm I acquired the village of Kotchenbroda in 1401 with all its fields, meadows and vineyards. The centrepiece of the winery is the historic Lust und Berghaus , built for Saxon Elector Johann Georg I in 1650 which now houses the Saxon Viticulture Museum. You can dig into the centuries old rich history of wine making, the work of the winemakers of past centuries and their equipment. You’ll find maps, models and works of art that illustrate the peculiarities of viticulture in the Elbe valley. Other notable reasons to visit is to see Albert Eyckhout’s (a court painter, from the Netherlands) lavish ceiling frescoes in the castle’s banquet hall,  a masterpiece of art that features 80 Brazilian birds. Besides guided tours through the historic vineyards, it is worth noting that in the Press House is housed the Saxon Wine Route Visitor centre, where you can plan your trip along the wine route. Last, but most importantly at the end you can sample a delightful glass of Hoflößnitz wine at the onsite Weinstube.

‘Klein aber fein!’  (Small but beautiful)

Katharina Pollmer

Katharina replied with a twinkle in her eye when I asked what makes the wine route and area unique. One thing I’ve quickly realised over the course of my trip is that most of the wineries, barring a few major producers like Schloss Wackerbarth are quite small in their scale. The focus in boutique wineries like Schuh is less about scale but more in producing wine ‘with character and soul’. This passion for character and soul reflects in their onsite winery restaurant where we have a fabulous 4 course dinner at night. Klein aber fein is also a perfect way to describe the village of Sörnewitz and the vineyards too. On the steep slopes of the village, we spot the dreamy spires of Meissen’s cathedral on the horizon. To our left, we see the misty eyed Elbe, an ever constant, reassuring presence on our journey. A feeling of deep satisfaction sweeps over me with as I sip on a glass of Katharina’s wonderful riesling.

‘I can escape into nature easily here which is perfect for the times we live in.’

Katharina Sommer

A few months have passed since our trip to Saxony. I’m back in Berlin, deep in the musty red roots of Autumn. The trip and our wine filled days of wonder and fairytale castles, beautiful villages are a distant memory. All I have is a bottle or two of some of the wines from the trip. We are a few days into another long lockdown awaits in Berlin and the rest of the Germany. There will be plenty of time to reminiscence about our trip to Saxony and other trips. While I love the comfort of the place we stay in and Berlin itself, somehow a nostalgic part of me longs to be back in Saxony. I miss the daily series of slow rituals that characterise the best holidays. For us in Saxony it was to get up at the crack of dawn, enjoy sunrise by the Elbe, watching the autumn mist hang above the meadows, a filling breakfast (which always true to local tradition, involve lots of delicious local cheeses, meats and a glass of the local sparkling wine Sekt), then a long hike which involved maybe a beautiful fairytale castle or two, then onto a winery, sampling a few glasses of wine accompanied by a dreamy sunset and then after a delicious meal, we sunk happily into one of the many beautiful hotel beds along the wine route and eagerly awaited the start of another day on the wine route. The more I discovered the route, the more I wondered why still so little is known about this region and its wines in UK and beyond. That not only goes for the wine but for Saxony itself. I search in my mind for an answer and that brings me back to the penultimate winery of our trip and probably our most memorable one- Weingut Klaus Zimmerling.

Picture this. It was another spectacular late summer sunset by the Elbe. We’re standing in the vineyard of Klaus Zimmerling, high in the steep rolling hills above the picture postcard village of Pillnitz. When you see scenes like this , you understand why Dresden once earned the epitaph ‘Florence on the Elbe.’ For a moment I feel like I’m in Tuscany.

The fiery ball of orange, sinking into the horizon saturates our skin and wine glasses with beautiful hues of colours – orange, pink and then purple. While sipping on the wine I admire one of the graceful female sculptures, by his wife, Malgorzata Chodakowska.  I don’t know whether it’s Malgorzata’s subtle ethereal sculptures or the wine talking but I feel that I’m somewhere quite magical. There we were, sunk in green lush rich fields, interspersed with tall magnificent trees, bathed in the rich glow. In the distance, Klaus points out the mystical fairytale vista of the Sachsen Switzerland mountains.

‘You should come to Saxony with an open mind and discover the region for yourself.’

Klaus Zimmerling

Until then, Klaus Zimmerling had been a man of few words. Only when showing us the landscape or uncorking another bottle of wine, I see his eyes sparkle. I posed to him the same question as to why so little is known about the wine region. It could be the fact, that the region produces only 0.2% of Germany’s wines. Zimmerling only produces around 14,000 bottles a year which are quickly sold out. The wine is more expensive than the average bottle of German wine. In an era where everything is built for mass consumption, I find it comforting that the wine I maybe drinking, will be no longer – tomorrow. In uncertain times like this, where the future is difficult to predict, it is more important that we savour the smaller details and gifts of life. Like a good bottle of wine. I have two bottles of Zimmerling’s signature high-quality organic Riesling wine left. I will save it for the cold nights ahead. It will be a moment worth waiting for, only, a brief few moments, to be transported back to memories of a beautiful late summer by the serpentine Elbe river. Memories of early misty mornings, of some good wine and the eternal hope of better times to comes around the bend.

Essential facts

Planning your trip

We stayed in a mix of hotels within the wineries ( was perfect!) and aparthotels-all very decently priced. Will share more practical information in our next post which will be a ‘how to’ guide for exploring the Saxony Wine Route. So stay tuned for that post. Plus, in the meantime, if you are thinking of planning a trip to Saxony in the near future, checkout their new microsite – Saxony Travel Dreams, where you’ll find lots of inspiration & practical tips.

Disclaimer

Please note that alongside Sabrina, I was invited to Saxony to write and create a video about the Saxony Wine Route. All the opinions expressed in this piece are entirely my own. I had planned to do this trip so I was really grateful for this trip and opportunity, especially give the year we had with little or no work. So I’d like to say a huge thank you to Dorothea, Nadine, Wolfgang and the TMGS team for inviting us back to Saxony and sharing their beautiful region with us. We hope to return soon!

Planning for the Saxon Wine Route

A. What to expect

Ideally you should dedicate at least a week to see the Saxon Wine Route.

There are different possibilities in doing so: by public transport, bicycle, car and even by foot…..You can tackle the trail in six separate stages, each 15 to 18 kilometres in length and taking between five and six hours to walk. The Saxon Wine Route is clearly signposted throughout. Just keep an eye out for the logo and marking sign of the Saxon Wine Route which is a red grape with a red S above it.  The route is very scenic and will take through the best of what Saxony has to offer – from beautiful vineyards and baroque castles to historical town centres and steep staircases leading to spectacular vantage points. The trail includes asphalt sections, cobblestone as well as overgrown paths and stairs. Bring a good pair of hiking shoes with you. Another alternative way to see the trail is by cycling the 55 km route (signposted as the ‘Elbe Cycling Route’). If you are pressed for time, you can also cover the route on the nostalgic old paddleboat steamers of the Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt.

B. When is the best time to visit the Saxon Wine Route

The best times to visit the vineyards are from late April into the summer and then, depending on weather conditions, immediately after the harvest in late autumn. Wherever you go there are hundreds of Wein -or Winzerfests like the Radebeul Autumn and Wine Festival where you have the perfect opportunity to taste the wines, mix with people, and enjoy local tasty treats.

C. Getting there

The best way to visit here is via the new Berlin Brandenburg Airport  which is accessible by a direct train ride ( 1 hour and 40 minutes Price: Starts from €22 one way). There are also excellent train connections from Frankfurt ( 4 hours 19 minutes , €50 . Worth mentioning that there is an excellent air link from Frankfurt to Dresden via Lufthansa with a journey time of just 55 minutes )and also Munich to Dresden ( 4 hours 45 minutes, €60 one way )

The other option is for people to fly into Prague airport and there is a direct train to Dresden (2 hours 26 minutes, €17.90 one way).

Towns to visit on the Saxon Wine Route

Pirna

A short hop from Dresden, Pirna is the starting point for the Saxon Wine Trail and also the gateway to the stunning Saxon Switzerland National Park. It is a city that goes a bit under the radar for many tourists which is a shame – spared of any damage from the Second World War, its well preserved historical old town with its picture perfect Renaissance town square is arguably the prettiest in Saxony. Crowned by the towering Sonnenstein Castle, its winding streets lined with charming courtyards and numerous fountains are a joy to explore.

Pillnitz

Located in the south east suburbs of Dresden, the village of Pillnitz sums up the beauty of the Saxon Wine Trail in a nutshell, with its perfect amalgamation of dreamy Elbe riverscapes, rolling vineyards with spectacular vistas of the distant Saxon Switzerland and a gorgeous Baroque palace. Inspired by the architecture of the far east, Pillnitz Palace and Park was a pleasure palace and later the summer residence of Saxony’s most famous ruler Augustus the Strong. Highlights here include exploring the 28 hectare gardens which is home to a number of rare trees, particularly in the Dutch Garden and Conifer Garden. Learn about the rich history of life at the court in the Schlossmuseum. Design lovers will love the Kunstgewerbemuseum collection, which ranges from late antiquity to contemporary design with a special focus on Saxon handicrafts.

Dresden

As the train pulls itself over the Elbe, the first thing that hits you when you arrive is the stunning Baroque silhouette of Dresden’s Altstadt. Combining the old and the new, the charm of Dresden lies in its unpredictability, a kind of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde personality where you are always having to reconcile two very different images of the city. In the Neustadt new town you will find a gritty and alternative side that expresses itself through its world famous street art scene, which is complemented by a strong nightlife scene that matches Berlin in some aspects. You will discover a fantastic live music scene, a wide range of cultural events and also a fantastic range of international dining options. Hop across the Elbe and then you find yourself in the very grand old town, with its beautifully restored Renaissance and Baroque architecture, bustling outdoor cafes and restaurants, life here has a very different feel and pace. Whichever type of traveller you are, you are bound to find something to suit your interests in this city.

Radebeul

Radebeul is a dreamy little town right next to Dresden. It has this lovely relaxed laid back vibe, thanks to the impressive hillside vineyard landscape edging up from the Elbe. Apart from the numerous wineries there are lots of artist workshops, galleries and cute boutique shops to explore here. You also have one of the oldest narrow-gauge railway lines in Germany, where nostalgia evoking steam trains chug their way to neighbouring Radeberg.

Meissen

Meissen is often overshadowed by its more glamorous neighbours – Dresden and Leipzig but is well worth the detour. Bordered by sloping vineyards that produce dry and fruity white wines and dominated by its impressive cathedral hill with its stunning Gothic cathedral and Albrechtsburg Castle, Meissen is one of the best-preserved towns you will discover on the Saxon Wine Route. I would use the German word “Gemütlichkeit” to describe Meissen – you have a feeling of instant zen, cosiness walking the cobbled hilly lanes streets of this 1,000-year-old city. Meissen is also the oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Europe and porcelain aka ‘white gold’ played a huge role in the city’s history-Porcelain museum is unmissable. For more about Meissen, checkout my earlier guide to the porcelain city of Germany.

Diesbar-Seusslitz

At the bend of the Elbe River, you will find the village of Diesbar-Seußlitz which marks the end of the Saxon Wine Route. The wineries found in this little piece of heaven are just grand, as is the Baroque Castle Seußlitz. One of the most popular festivals is the annual Marriage Market, which has been celebrated for the last 500 years.

Wineries to visit on the Saxon Wine Route

Schloss Wackerbarth

Address: Wackerbarthstraße 1, 01445 Radebeul, Germany

Schloss Wackerbarth, the region’s largest and most famous vineyard, is one of the places where you can sample the special aroma of the Goldriesling variety that was introduced to Saxony from the Alsace in 1913. Wackerbarth, sitting above the Elbe in Radebeul not far from Dresden, is a quite splendid combination of vineyards, Baroque gardens, a palace and a modern wine/sparkling wine factory. In other words, don’t miss!

‘Exquisitely Saxon’ is the motto of Schloss Wackerbarth but can be applied to most vineyards here. One of the distinguishing characteristics of vineyards at Schloss Wackerbarth are their centuries old steep vineyards bounded by dry stone walls. Maintaining these stone walls, some hundreds of years old, is an expensive setup that demands a great deal of manual care. Working the vines, on these steep terraces is a real labour of love, a lot more exhausting than simply driving a tractor through a flat field of vines. The end result is pretty special. The grapes are handpicked. The vines deliver incredibly mineral, intense flavoured grapes. Also, the grapes here achieve a surprising ripeness, odd, considering their northern latitude. When you consider the small quantities in which these wines are produced and their local popularity, finding them outside of Germany, or even outside of Saxony for that fact is quite difficult. What you sample here is unique. That’s what makes any trip along the Saxon Wine Route, a very special experience.

Hoflößnitz winery

Address: Knohllweg 37, 01445 Radebeul, Germany

Hoflößnitz winery in Radebeul is the cradle of Saxon viticulture and represents a 600 year-old proud history of wine culture on the slopes of Loessnitz. It is the first winery in Saxony which is certified for producing ecological wine.

The winery dates back to 1401 when Wettin Margrave Wilhelm I acquired the village of Kotchenbroda in with all its fields, meadows and vineyards. Besides guided tours through the historic vineyards, visitors can visit the Saxon Wine Route Visitor centre, where you can plan your trip along the wine route. The winery also offers onsite accommodation with four double rooms and two apartments. Last, but most importantly at the end, whilst enjoying the view of the beautiful vineyards, you can sample a delightful glass of Hoflößnitz wine at their delightful onsite Weinstube. I recommend the Kerner wine-with hints of star fruit, passion fruit and grapefruit. This is summer in a glass.

Weingut Klaus Zimmerling

Address: Bergweg 27, 01326 Dresden, Germany

High above the picture postcard village of Pillnitz at the foot of the Rysselkuppe, the Pillnitz Royal Vineyard, lies another star of the wine route, the Zimmerling Winery, run by Klaus Zimmerling and his artist wife Malgorzata Chodakowska, who also designs the labels for the wine bottles. The wine is much sought after in Germany and beyond which have been served in Michelin star restaurants like Noma in Denmark. Zimmerling only produces around 14,000 bottles a year. Zimmerling winery specializes in white wines, especially Riesling, Grauburgunder, Weißburgunder, Kerner, Gewürztraminer and Traminer.

A unique blend of art, wine and sculpltures, this is a special place to visit. Both Klaus and Malgorzata are happy to receive visitors from Dresden and around the world. Visit their wine shop, chat with Klaus and his wife about their wines. In the middle of the vines, you can visit Malgorzata Chodakowska’s studio and view her subtle ethereal sculptures, graceful female figures which she creates from wood or bronze. They are currently building a beautiful new events space that will house some of Malgorzata’s sculptures and will be available for weddings and private hire.

Weingut Schuh

Address: Zaschendorfer Str. 2, 01640 Coswig, Germany

The Schuh Winery is run by Katharina and Matthias, who were born into a family of wine growers and who have been running their father’s winery since 2016 with great passion and love for wine.

Their favourite place is the steep sloping vineyards of Sörnewitz in the region around Meissen and Dresden, where they grow wine “with character and soul”. They refrain from using any herbicides and only use organic fertilisers. As connoisseurs of professional paths, their culinary demands go far beyond the edge of the wine glass, which is why a visit to the estate’s own wine restaurant is worthwhile. Special events such as herb-wine hikes take place regularly at the winery. Along with the grape varieties conventionally grown in Saxony, the Weingut Schuh winery is the only establishment to press a rich, genuine red wine made from Dunkelfelder grapes.

Winery Proschwitz Castle

Address: Dorfanger 19, 01665 Diera-Zehren, Germany

Proschwitz is a village close to Meissen and Proschwitz Castle enjoys a reputation of being the oldest private winery in Saxony. The Castle, built in the Neo-Baroque style is owned by Georg Prinz zur Lippe and today the winery enjoys status as one of the finest producers of German wine. The extended hours of sunshine enjoyed in the Elbe valley along with the wealth of minerals in the soil help produce some of the most unique wines of this region. Given its fine interiors, the castle also hosts private events and weddings.

Winery WeinReich Diesbar-Seußlitz

Address: An der Weinstrasse 7 01612 Diesbar-Seußlitz, Germany

In the 800 years old small wine village Diesbar-Seußlitz, marking the end of the Saxon Wine Route, you will find the last winery on the Saxon Wine Route, the Winery WeinReich Diesbar-Seußlitz. Located in the former stable of the manor of Seußlitz Castle, during the season visitors can lounge on their dreamy sandstone terrace and enjoy a bunch of rarities from Saxony plus a selection of wines from Germany’s other wine regions. Matching dishes are included. Note that their small wine tavern is open only on Sundays from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Check their website for the latest opening hours.

Winzer Winn

Address: Grüner Weg 44, 01796 Pirna, Germany

This boutique small winery run by the passionate Wolfgang Winn is a great introduction to Saxon Wine Route. Carrying on a 300 year old tradition of winemaking that dates back to when Augustus the Strong started with his Blauburgunder wines, hobby winemaker Wolfgang Winn has been pressing wines from the Pillnitz Royal Vineyard on the southern slope of the Borsberg and from the Schlossblick vineyard in Pirna. Winn grows a wide variety of grapes that are popular here on the Elbe including Müller-Thurgau, Goldriesling, Pinot Blanc, Ruländer, Traminer, Morio Muskat, Scheurebe, Pinot Noir and Dornfelder.

In season, you can wonder through the royal vineyards in Pillnitz or soak in the sun on their sun terrace and chat to Wolfgang Winn at his historic vineyard cottage on the Leitenweg overlooking the Elbe valley.

Where to stay on the Saxon Wine Route

Hotel Goldener Anker, Radebeul

Within walking distance from the River Elbe you find the quaint, traditional Hotel Goldener Anker in Radebeul. Located close to the Radebeul Boat Jetty and in the vicinity of small eateries and shops, the rooms feature a historical design and include amenities like satellite TV and attached bathrooms. Some of the rooms overlook the Elbe. Breakfast can be enjoyed at extra cost and Saxon style food is served at the hotel’s excellent restaurant. There’s also a large beer garden on the premises. Room rates start from €80.

Vinotel. Weingut Schuh, Sörnewitz

During the season (1st April till 31st October), Vinotel Weingut Schuh offers visitors the possibility of spending the night in the winery in their beautiful half-timbered house where you can choose from single and double rooms or your very own country house style apartment. Rooms are cozy here. Guests can relax on their sun terrace, enjoy a meal in their fantastic restaurant plus wake up to a hearty Saxon style buffet breakfast which includes of course unlimited Sekt. Rates start from €75 for doubles, with breakfast.

Felix im Lebendigen Haus, Dresden

Your home away from home in Dresden, located in the heart of the city overlooking the stunning Zwinger is the Felix im Lebendigen Haus. A design hotel with all the state of the art facilities and superior design, choose from a range of suites. Some suites have features like a kitchenette, stylish bathroom, free Wi-Fi, flat screen TV, a desk to work and a safe to secure all valuables. Long stay rates start from the €62 for a small suite.

Schlosshotel Pillnitz

Vineyards and bountiful orchards surround this hotel located on the grounds of the historic Schloss Pillnitz Palace. On the banks of the River Elbe, you will find it hard to find a more historic and tranquil spot to stay the night. The summer months provide the opportunity of enjoying a meal at the beer garden. The rooms are spacious and provide lots of luxuries – canopied beds, lush draperies, scenic views and wonderful dining opportunities will make this a stay to remember.

Things to do on the Saxon Wine Route

Saxon Viticulture Museum

At the heart of the winery is the historic Lust- und Berghaus, built for Saxon Elector Johann Georg I in 1650 which now houses the Saxon Viticulture Museum. You can dig into the centuries-old rich history of wine making, the work of the winemakers of past centuries and their equipment. You’ll find maps, models and works of art that illustrate the peculiarities of viticulture in the Elbe valley. Other notable reasons to visit is to see Albert Eyckhout’s (a court painter from the Netherlands) lavish ceiling frescoes in the castle’s banquet hall, a masterpiece of art that features 80 Brazilian birds.

Proschwitz Castle

Proschwitz is a village close to Meissen and Proschwitz Castle enjoys a reputation of being the oldest private winery in Saxony. The Castle, built in the Neo-Baroque style, is owned by Georg Prinz zur Lippe and today the winery enjoys status as one of the finest producers of German wine. The extended hours of sunshine enjoyed in the Elbe valley along with the wealth of minerals in the soil help produce some of the most unique wines of this region. Given its fine interiors, the castle also hosts private events and weddings.

Moritzburg Castle

Moritzburg Castle is a historical Baroque palace found in Moritzburg near Dresden. It enjoys a superb location, perched on an artificial island, surrounded by water and near to extensive castle grounds, historically used for Royal hunting expeditions. The interiors of the castle are opulently designed. Many of the rooms are devoted to showing the spoils of hunting expeditions. There are areas of the house displaying beautiful porcelain from Japan, China and closer to home – Meissen. Lacquered furniture ornately decorated with silver, large paintings and leather wallpaper are all details to take in when touring the Moritzburg Castle.

Tip: To reach Moritzburg Castle hop on the Regionalbus 326 from Dresden-Neustadt. Invest in a VVO one day ticket which covers the whole area. It costs €13.50 for the day and two children (aged 6-14) can travel free with an adult. The other option if you are travelling in a group is to buy the group pass which costs €28.

Lössnitzgrundbahn narrow-gauge railway

If steam trains and time travelling is your thing, then a journey on the Lössnitzgrundbahn narrow-gauge railway is a wonderful experience that will delight people of all ages. One of the oldest narrow-gauge railway lines in Germany, without fail, this classic steam train embarks every day on a 16.6 kilometre route from Radebeul Ost to Radeburg via Moritzburg. Tickets cost €7.50 one way ( Kids: €3.80) or €14.30 (Kids: €7.20) return.

Dresden- Hop-on Hop-Off Bus Experience

Who doesn’t enjoy a Hop-on Hop-off bus experience to leisurely tour and discover a city at your own pace? The Dresden bus takes in as many as 22 stops and you can hop on at the Zwinger right in the heart of the city or any one of the remaining stops. To circumnavigate the entire trail without hopping off takes 2 hours and you have the pleasurable accompaniment of an audio guide in the language of your choice. There is a live guide who will take you around sights like the Zwinger, Frauenkirche and Fuerstenzug. Adults ride for €20 and a child for free with an accompanying adult. More details can be found on their website.

Albrechtsburg Castle Meissen

Another castle on the Saxon Wine Route is Albrechtsburg Castle Meissen. Built in Gothic and Renaissance style it is perched on a rocky plateau, overlooking the River Elbe and located right next to Gothic Meissen Cathedral. Highlights of the design include the Great Staircase Tower, banqueting halls, the former electoral presence room and independent apartments for living. It is Germany’s first living castle and home of the first European Porcelain Manufactory which is now on the outskirts of Meissen. Meissen itself is the oldest town of Saxony and a romantic jewel with narrow lanes and beautiful historic houses.

Pfunds Molkerei (Pfunds Dairy), Dresden

Slated to be the ‘World’s Most Beautiful Milk Shop’ by the Guiness Book of World Records, Pfund’s Molkerei has been doing business as a milk shop in Dresden since 1880. This beautiful dairy was thankfully not hit during WW2 and is today a beautiful testament of all that is beautiful and ornate with regard to interiors. Lavishly decorated with hand painted Villeroy and Boch tiles, the dairy is as pretty as a picture in shades of blue and gold. Resembling a palace more than a traditional dairy, sipping on a glass of milk or tasting cheeses from Saxony and all over the world has never seemed so luxurious!

Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt

With a fleet of nine historic paddle steamers, between 81 and 131 years old, the Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt operates the largest and oldest fleet of historic paddle steamers in the world. A ride on the classic paddleboat steamer gives you a fantastic perspective of the vineyards along the wine route. The vessels have been lovingly restored and feature cozy salons both on the main deck and below deck. While on the vessel, guests can get an open view of the original, oscillating steam engine plus there’s also small windows on the side to view the splashing paddle wheels. Journey time is about 2 1/2 hours. Grab a glass of wine from the vessel bar and enjoy the spectacular scenery along the sleepy Elbe river.

They offer all kinds of ride from a city tour (1 h) to a trip into Saxon Switzerland (6 hours just the rides)

Important dates

August: Open Vineyards Weekend

The Open Vineyards Weekend held in August each year is immensely popular with the locals. A long-standing favourite with the locals for a reason: every year, vineyards between Pillnitz and Diesbar-Seusslitz, in Dresden and the small town of Freital just a few miles south, open their doors to visitors who can explore the wine terraces and winemaking on guided tours, before sampling the products. A great way to get to know what makes the Saxon Wine Route so special.

September: Federweisser Fest in Diesbar-Seußlitz

Picturesque Diesbar-Seußlitz in the Dresden Elbland region is the Northern gateway to the Saxon Wine Route. Early autumn is the time for Federweisser, the sweet and low-alcohol wine made of grapes that ripen early, and Diesbar-Seußlitz has quite rightly dedicated a whole wine festival to it. There’s music, guided tours of the surrounding vineyards and lots of delicious savoury snacks that go particularly well with this wine. Don’t be put off by its cloudy look that is down to the yeast that is added to the grapes and its sweetness – it is actually rather refreshing, with a pleasant sparkle. Tip: Take a look at the local Baroque palace and its lovely gardens.

September: Wine Festival in Meissen

Walks in Meissen’s vineyards are a delight in autumn but there is another reason why you should make it here in late September: The town’s Wine Festival is the biggest fair of the Elbland region with all the major Saxon vineyards showcasing their wines. For three days, Meissen’s beautiful old town is all about wine, music and food. Not to be missed: the residents open their courtyards and vaulted cellars to visitors, turning private homes into very charming vine taverns.

Radebeul Autumn and Wine Festival

There are a bunch of independent wineries in Radebeul which form the bedrock of one of Saxony’s most popular festivals, the Radebeul Autumn and Wine Festival. Celebrated annually at the end of September to mark the onset of Autumn, the festival besides marking the initial wine harvest, also takes place in parallel with the Internationales Wandertheater Festival (International Itinerant Theatre Festival). You have an intoxicating combination of locals chugging down the sweet young Federweisser wine and at the same time art, clowns, musicians and actors turning the cobbled streets into a stage. With all the wineries of the Saxon Wine Route showcasing their wines, it is the perfect introduction to the Saxon Wine Route.

Disclaimer

Please note that alongside Sabrina, I was invited to Saxony to write and create a video about the Saxony Wine Route. All the opinions expressed in this piece are entirely my own. I had planned to do this trip so I was really grateful for this trip and opportunity, especially give the year we had with little or no work. So I’d like to say a huge thank you to Dorothea, Nadine, Wolfgang and the TMGS team for inviting us back to Saxony and sharing their beautiful region with us. We hope to return soon!

I love Berlin but have always had a soft spot for Munich. I love the beautiful architecture, strolling through its grand and wide boulevards and of course enjoying its rich beer garden culture. With the advent of Covid, Munich proved to be an ideal choice for a social distancing-friendly short break thanks to its 5,680 acres of public parks and long established tradition of historical gardens – there’s lots of wide open green spaces within the city for being socially distant.

The other major plus of visiting Munich is that just beyond its city borders, there is so much natural beauty and history to discover, from medieval villages and alpine peaks to pristine lakes. You can be hiking a mountain by day and be completely immersed in nature and by night, enjoying a beer in a beach bar on a river in the heart of the city.

In this guide, I wanted to share my experience of visiting Munich and why I think the city is perfect for a safe but enjoyable social distancing-friendly short break in 2021.

At the time of our visit in September, Munich and Bavaria in general, were very strict with Covid regulations. Wearing mouth and nose protection was compulsory on public transport as well as in all shops, museums, galleries, exhibitions, etc. We were also required to wear a mask inside restaurants, beer gardens and cafés as long as we were not sitting at the table. 

Important note: As of today ( 10th December 2020 ) with the recent rise in infections, Bavaria is now on complete lockdown. For the latest information and advice about travelling to Munich, check the Munich Tourism portal.

Where to stay: Jams Hotel

Combining good old fashioned hospitality, cosy spacious elegant rooms with a wonderful laid-back retro quality plus a strong focus on music, (as you’ve guessed from the name) – Jams Music Hotel is a great base to explore Munich. Each room comes with its own record player and at the lobby, you can select from a wide selection of classic rock records with everything from The Doors, Beatles to Deep Purple, Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin. There’s also the perk of a complimentary mini-bar with beers and soft drinks that gets restocked every day.

Situated in the trendy neighbourhood of Haidhausen behind the Gasteig concert hall and on the fringes of the Isar river and English Garden, Jams is the perfect base for a socially distant, relaxed break in Munich. There is a basement bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace where you can enjoy their excellent breakfast. You can enjoy everything from poached eggs on salmon to pancakes with fresh fruits of the forest. In the evenings, the bar with its extensive drinks menu and resident DJ, becomes a popular meeting point for locals and guests alike.

Sunset picnic on the Isar

“When I think of the Isar, I think of childhood and playing and the summer,”

Munich-born songwriter Konstantin Wecker.

Just a 10 minute walk from the Jams Hotel, a nice spot to catch sunset is by the Isar at the Zellstrasser Strand. There’s plenty of space here for everyone, even on a hot summer days so social distancing is not an issue. There’s the epic view of the Wehrsteg bridge in front of you where you can see the crystal clear waters of the river gushing past and also the dome of St Luke’s Church, Munich’s oldest Protestant church. Grab a local Tegernsee or Augustiner beer (€2) from the nearby Spati am Gasteig. If you’re hungry and want to have a picnic, on the same street you’ll find Pizzeco who sell pizza by the slice (gluten free), ranging from the classic Margherita (€2) to Potato pizza with truffle oil (€3).

Nightlife in the summer: Pop into the Kulturstrand

If you’re are visiting Munich in the summer, I would strongly recommend popping into the Kulturstrand, a culture beach in the middle of the river Isar. The Kulturstrand takes place this year around the Vater-Rhein-Brunnen and will be there till 30th September. On most nights, you can find all kind of artists performing here and with tons of real sand to dip your toes in (huge amounts are imported every year from the Caribbean to the Bavarian capital) and the amazing location, right on the Museumsinsel is really perfect.

Catch the Rocky Horror Picture Show at Museum Lichtspiele

If you are visiting Munich over the weekend, another cool option is to catch the  famous cult film “Rocky Horror Picture Show”, which has been shown at the cinema, non-stop for the last 30 years, every Friday and Saturday at 23:00.

Day 2

Maximiliansanlagen

Situated between Max-Joseph-Brücke in the south and Ludwigsbrücke in the north, start the day with a stroll through the beautiful Maximiliansanlagen, a green shady 2 kilometre stretch of grass directly on the Isar, very popular with walkers, joggers and those looking for relaxation.

The highlight of the walk is the Angel of Peace, a 38 metre high glorious golden statue, embellishing a Greek temple. You can get a wonderful view of Munich from here and its perfect to visit, morning or in the evening.

Englischer Garten

Just a short walk from Maximiliansanlagen lies another place which is uniquely Munich, my favourite garden in the world, the Englischer Garten. The garden has the unique honour of being one of the largest urban parks of its kind in the world. It is a huge space, spreading from the centre of Munich, to its north-eastern fringes. As you’ve guessed from the name, it was designed in the form of an informal English garden, a style much popularised by the nobility from the middle of the eighteenth to the beginning of the nineteenth century. The Englisher Garden had all the characteristics- from gently rolling, manicured lawns, groves of tall trees and an artificial lake to a reconstruction of Greek temples, gently arching bridges and hints of a pastoral landscape, a feature popularised by the writers and painters of the time. The English Garden was THE place of escape into an idyllic world and fast forward to the current Covid era of travel, it continues to be a place of refuge for locals and tourists alike.

You have a wide choice of idyllic spots to spend your day, from the Monopteros, The Japanese Teahouse to the Chinese Tower, The Hirschau, The Kleinhesseloher Lake, Romford Hall, the Surfing Spot in the river and so much more.

One of my favourite spots to relax is at the foot of the Monopteros, a classical Greek style temple situated on a small hill. The temple has ten regal, Ionic columns with a copper coloured dome on top.

Lunch at the Chinescher Turm Biergarten

Another highlight of visiting the Englischer Garten for me has always been popping in for a Hofbrau beer (not my favourite beer in Munich but decent) at the Chinesischer Turm Biergarten.

Munich is famous for its beer gardens and we could not leave town without a beer at one of its most famous beer gardens. Built in 1789 along the model of the pagoda at Royal Botanic Gardens of Kew in London, the Chinesischer Turm is the second largest biergarten in Munich after the Hirschgarten. With over 7000 spaces, social distancing and finding your own table to sup your beer is not an issue. Even on a warm late summers day we could find ourselves a seat.

As with everywhere in Munich and Bavaria there were lots of precautions taken to ensure the safety of customers. No one was allowed to be seated in the biergarten until we had registered via the barcode at the entrance. Lots of disinfectant stations throughout the biergarten and also in the bathrooms. Food was self service and after standing in an orderly social distant queue I went for some classic German comfort food of sausages in a currywurst sauce plus some mashed potato and sauerkraut. We washed this down with a half pint of the Hofbrau beer.

Lunch for 2 with beers: €24

Eisbachwelle

Just a short walk from the Angel of Peace at the mouth of the Englischer Garten lies another highlight of the garden and one of Munich’s most unusual and original sightseeing spots – the manmade wave called the Eisbachwelle. A stretch of the river had the laminar flow converted to turbulent flow in the 70’s to create an artificial wave for locals to surf on. The wave fascinates locals and visitors alike since then and draws in surfers from all over the city on a daily basis. Unmissable.

Glockenbachviertel

To get a feel of the city, I always love to explore and get under the skin of at least one neighbourhood during a 2-3 day shortbreak. For this trip, I decided to dedicate some time to explore the Glockenbachviertel. The nerve centre of Munich’s LGBTQ scene and popular with students and creatives alike, recent gentrification has seen this neighbourhood south east of Munich’s Old Town transform into a more upmarket affair, packed with pastel coloured symmetric houses, cool bars and cafes. Plus its proximity to the Isar River makes it an ideal place to spend a summer’s evening or night – on the town.

One cool feature in this area is the number of excellent boutiques and independent stores for shopping. If you’re looking for an unusual gift or a nice cup of coffee or glass of wine, here are some tips for you.

On the way to 7te Himmel we stumbled upon by chance, Club Do Vinho , a wonderful wine and delicatessen that specialises in Portuguese wines and food. For those of you who have followed the blog for awhile, may remember I lived in Portugal, island of Madeira for 4 years. A small piece of my heart lies in Portugal so whenever I see anything Portuguese, I always feel emotional. The place does not disappoint – run by the friendly and extremely knowledgeable Ana Maria, this shop is a like a little corner of Portugal in Munich where you can savour everything from delicious Pasteis de Nata to drinking a nice glass of Vinho Verde, Vin Madeira or Port wine.

Our next stop was 7te Himmel, another outlet in the heart of Glockenbachviertel run with great heart and soul for the past 40 years by the affable Solveig Zecher. In her seventh heaven you can find wonderful array of dreamy and a little kitsch treasures: clothing ranging from knitted sweaters to colourful jackets, occasional pieces of jewellery, belts and carefully selected postcards.

We finish our tour of the area with a visit to the Gotterspeise Chocolaterie and Cafe (Jahnstraße 30, 80469 Munich), a must visit for chocolate and food lovers .The shop is a treasure trove of carefully selected chocolate, wines, spirits and food from all parts of the world. I wanted to eat everything here and take it home. In the end we picked up a box of salted butter caramels from France and Spicy Pepper and Herb Taralli from Puglia. Then you have the adjacent cafe where you enjoy a hot chocolate or a coffee (roasted in-house) or homemade lemonade and take time to unwind on their wonderful outdoor terrace, watch the comings and going of people in Glockenbachviertel.

Gärtnerplatz

On every trip, you always find one square or corner of a neighbourhood where you really feel the pulse of the city and ‘meet the locals.’ Gartnerplatz , adjacent to Glockenbachviertel and separated from it by the Fraunhoferstrasse is that place where you are one with local life and really plug into the city’s vibrant energy.

Gartnerplatz has a unique circular layout, emanating like a wheel from the fountains and flower beds that mark its centre. At the heart of the trendy neighbourhood is the Gartnerplatz Square where you can find the famous Staatstheater am Gartnerplatz. Though the square is dominated by the theatre, on the other sides of the square you find buildings painted in red – a shade particularly known as Gartnerplatz red. The square is a popular meeting point for locals and with the many surrounding pubs, bars and restaurants, this is the ideal place to hang out in Munich. If the weather is nice, I would suggest grabbing a nice local beer from the Penny Supermarket on the square and sitting down in the grass, having a sip and for awhile, letting local life revolve around you and this wonderful circle of colour, people and history.

Finish the day at the Olympiapark and Blue Sky Coffee & Photo

We finish the day and the trip at another of Munich’s glorious urban parks. This one was built in honour of the 1972 Summer Olympics. Olympiapark is a broad area that consists of the sporting arenas, the Olympic Villages, the Shopping area and the Park area – consisting of Olympic Hill and Olympic Lake. The park is the venue for several annual events including sporting events and those related to the fine arts.

The perfect place to see the Park and also catch sunset is at the top of the tower at the Blue Sky Coffee & Photo where the charismatic owner Markus Pranger will make you the best cup of coffee in Munich. Enjoy the views accompanied to Markus’s excellent drum & bass /techno music. Later, go a floor up to enjoy the best panoramic view of the city from the tower.

Dinner: Kashmir Inn

After a long day, we didn’t want to venture too far from the Jams Hotel so we were quite happy to discover the excellent Kashmir Inn. Run by the very hospitable Mr Usman the restaurant offers a range of classic North Indian/Pakistani classic dishes ranging from Karahi Paneer, Halwa Puri to Murgh Tikka Masala.

Day 3

Zugspitze/ Garmisch Partenkirchen

With boundless expanse of lakes, mountains vistas and picture postcard medieval villages at the doorstep, you’re really spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing a day trip from Munich.

I recommend visiting an old favourite of mine – Garmisch Partenkirchen and combining it with a trip to Germany’s highest peak, Zugspitze.

Top tip: Buy the Bavarian regional day ticket that will cover travel throughout the region. You can buy this on the day at any S-Bahn station or at the main train station. ( Valid from Monday to Friday from 9 am to 3 am the next day. On weekends and on public holidays the ticket is valid from midnight. Kids under 5 travel free )

For 2 people, the regional train ticket costed us €32. We could use it on S-Bahn and local train service in Munich and all scheduled bus services in Bavaria. Note: Few exceptions apply- check this page 

The Zugspitze

Upon arrival at the small town of Grainau, situated at the foot of the Zugspitze, take the cablecar ride from Eibsee to the top in an awe-inspiringly steep, almost vertical ascent up the mountain. The aerial tramway, running from Eibsee Lake to the top of the Zugspitze, holds the record as the longest freespanning cablecar ride in the world.

To say that the views from the top of the Zugspitze were incredibly beautiful, would be an understatement. The all-encompassing panoramic views onto 400 peaks, spread over 4 different countries can be a humbling experience. The Zugspitze mightily stands at 2962m above sea level and the experience is one to be remembered.

Apart from taking in the dizzying views, there’s a lot to do on the mountaintop. You can visit Germany’s highest elevation church, and during the winter months go tobagonning or visit the igloo village that is sculpted anew each winter. Otherwise, like us, you can enjoy the hospitality of a mountaintop restaurant and enjoy a meal with a view.

Visit the Panorama restaurant, which provides stunning views of the Eibsee below and of over 4 countries, is a great place to sample some excellent Alpine cuisine that uses fresh regional produce from Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy.

After a very satisfying meal we took the cogwheel train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen for a more gradual descent off the mountain top.

Garmisch- Partenkirchen

Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a Bavarian ski resort formed by conjoining the two towns of Garmisch and Partenkirchen. Originally, they were two separate towns with very different characters until they were forced to merge their identities prior to the 1936 Winter Olympics by Adolf Hitler. Partenkirchen is the town with the older architecture, cobbled streets and Bavarian feel whereas Garmisch has a more contemporary facade. Both towns are well-known on the map due to their proximity to the Zugspitze.

Partenkirchen, especially the main thoroughfare, Ludwigstrasse is a photographer’s delight. Everywhere you turn, quaint chalet style houses, the epitome of Bavarian architecture, greet your eyes. Gabled roofs with wide eaves, multicoloured houses with intricate murals, weatherboarded exteriors delightfully painted, ornate carvings and mouldings, window boxes bursting with cheerful flowers – Ludwigstrasse is pretty much picture-perfect.

Head to Wildcaffee Rosterei for coffee tasting. Their showroom is a kind of a mix between a cafe/roastery (the moment you walk in, kapow..bang, the smell of fragrant coffee beans being freshly roasted on site, hits you in the face) plus a kind of coffee tasting saloon where expert baristas like Robin Matthijsse let you sample a few of their coffees to help you understand better the different types of coffee they offer. Altogether, it is a well crafted coffee tasting experience that will stay with you for many years to come

Next head to Chocolaterie Amelie to try their famous signature chocolate with alpine herbs. The handmade chocolates made here are simply mouthwatering. Choose from truffles, pralines, chocolate bark, rum raisin chocolate bark, hazelnut filled chocolates and so much more.

End the day with dinner at the Hotel Garmischer Hof where everything is 100% organic and locally sourced.  Choose from a nice variety of classic southern German/Austrian dishes like Kaiserschmarrn, Wiener Schnitzel or sausages braised in beer from the brewery served with mustard, coleslaw and bread. Wash this down with excellent beer from their onsite brewery.

Further reading

To help plan your trip to Munich checkout my earlier guide on how to spend 2 days in Munich

plus local, Julia, shared her top 25 cheap eats in Munich.

Disclaimer

My trip to Munich was possible, thanks to a collaboration with the German National Tourism Office. However, all the opinions and suggestions expressed here are entirely my own, with a little influence from my other half, Sabrina Wulf.

Huge thanks to Denise, Josefine, Helena and the rest of the team at GNTO for making this amazing trip and collaboration possible.

August 2020. We’ve come almost full circle since last summer. The year has been the most extraordinary and craziest year in life. In uncertain times like this, it is important to pause. Reflect. Hold onto the memories of happier times and people. The friends we made along the way during our travels. The memorable meals and of course the wonderful company, with whom, we’ve shared those meals.The long serendipitous days of travel when you carve a line through an unknown city and create your own magical, dream universe full of people, places…memories…when you feel like you’ve entered into a parallel universe of some sort. When the holiday is over, even though we leave these magical worlds behind and retreat back to our everyday life, they never leave us. In a way, they enter into our DNA and become part of us forever.

As we pause, revive our weary souls in August, just like Xmas, I’m grateful for this period when life temporarily hits the pause button. One of the few shining lights of the pandemic has been the gift of time, opportunity to think and reflect. In times of strife, I’ve found my travel memories to be a place of healing and solace. I’ve dug deep in my box of memories. Amongst many things, I wondered why does the loss or absence of travel hurt us so much. Why does travel mean so much to us? Sometimes the act of travel is so much more than just travelling. Correct me, but I feel it somehow represents an ideal and a sense of freedom that is often missing in our lives. What is it about these parallel universes we inhabit for a few days, that mean so much to us?

To find out the answers, as travel restrictions have slowly been lifted over the summer,  I’ve been retracing my steps recently to some of my favourite parallel universes recently. Even though flights to Athens and Lisbon are cheap as hell and I see repeated stories on how safe air travel is, I’m not feeling really upto the demands of air travel.

Time to explore my backyard. Recently, as some of you know, I was in Leipzig which was incredible fun and an emotional weekend too. Prague, was an emotional trip and lot of fun. The next old favourite that we were dying to revisit was Hamburg, a city where both Sabrina and I have strong emotional connections. Sabrina lived in Hamburg for a while and went to university there, so there’s always a strong pull to return to her ‘heimat’. Over the years we’ve collected a lot of amazing memories. Going back here, feels like slipping into a pair of well worn comfortable slippers. I know the city and I feel the city knows me.

I can’t quite sum what is it about Hamburg that makes it special and keeps me coming back. With some cities, just like love, it is an instant feeling and connection you feel the moment you walk its streets.

I can tell you that Hamburg wasn’t love at first sight. 2012 summer. I walked out of the train station, the smell of piss and chaos instantly sapping the life out of me. These were the days of no Google Maps remember. I spent an eternity on a very humid day in June trying to find my hostel, A&O Hostels which was tucked behind the Hauptbahnhof in St Georg. Back in 2012, St Georg was a few glorious light years away from gentrification, very rough around the edges and probably not the best introduction to Hamburg. Especially for someone like me, who at 33 was a belated entrant to the world of backpacking and travelling solo. There are far better hostels in Hamburg than A&O. The hostel was filled with pimply faced teenagers ranting at the poor wifi and casual labourers, mainly from Eastern Europe, who had landed in the city in search of any kind of work. I can still remember their sad faces, chain smoking furiously at the entrance and jabbing their shrill voices into their mobile and fingers into the sky, protesting with an imaginary god, the injustices of life. Travelling solo can be such an intimidating experience at first,  especially in a new city. I remember sheepishly asking for the city map at the hostel reception and venturing out at night on the first evening, walking the streets of the city, wide eyed and slightly feeling sad for myself, an unhappy voyeur, looking on at the scenes of life unveiling themselves before me. The sense of isolation and unhappiness was the starkest when I hit the Reeperbahn. A riot of neon lights, aggressive pimps and heavily drugged beggars, I quickly left. After the almost sterile, disneylandesque nature of Amsterdam’s Red Light District, Hamburg’s Reeperbahn felt every inch what a red light district should be – grotty, seedy, loud and a wonderful assortment of characters that could only be from the Reeperbahn.

My trip did improve over the weekend I was there. My redemption lied in the comfort of the now sadly closed Beatles museum on the Reeperbahn. The Beatles have been a huge part of my life. Alongside my sister, I danced, sang along to all their songs from a young age. My favourite songs were their more earlier, happier poppier stuff like ‘Love me Do’ and ‘Hard Day’s Night.’ As I grew older, I appreciated their later darker stuff on the White Album.

My love of Hamburg, much like my love of the Beatles, I’ve found kind of grows with age. The grotty, seedy Reeperbahn which I hated so much on first glance, I grew to love, the more I explored its layers and its incredible bar scene. There’s a bunch of amazing bars here, all with their own history and story. There’s Rosi’s for example, named after Rosi McGinnity who opened the bar in 1969. She flirted with the Beatles here, married the British musician Tony Sheridan who played in many clubs on the strip and paved the way for the Beatles arrival.  Then there’s cult places like Zum Silbersack where you can get shots of local Mexikaner and sway to 1950’s German schlager till dawn. The bar is not the most glamorous place on planet earth with their gruff service, smoke filled rooms and sticky floors but this is the place where you will encounter true local Hamburg legends and have as we say in Scotland proper banter. When day breaks, everyone heads for breakfast brunch at Cafe May – one of the best places to start your day in Hamburg.

I travel through my stomach but that wasn’t always the case here. On my first trips, when money was tight and I wasn’t very well aware of the city, I would end up eating a kebab or one of those ‘wok to go’ fast fried noodle joints. When you are young, travelling solo, you want your food fast and cheap. However, as you grow older and become more self assured in your own company, you start developing a better, finer taste of food and also where you might find the true locals eating, instead of the more touristy joints. There was one snack I discovered on my first trip in Hamburg that for me sums up the city in one bite – the humble but ever so tasty fischbrötchen. I would usually grab my fischbrötchen at the stands right after exiting Landungsbrucken – fish fillet sandwich with homemade tartar sauce (pretty tasty stuff but after a few trips to the city I realised I was missing out on the really good stuff further up the ‘brücke’ pier 10 to be precise where you’ll find Brücke 10). Here with a nice bread roll, you’ll get a choice of fish fillet, matjes or crab meat. Sabrina loves it with crab meat, I love it with matjes and a few crunchy onions thrown in for flavour. Wash it down with an ice cold Astra beer and you have the perfect Hamburg meal. ( PS Here’s a recent list of some good places to eat in Hamburg )

We talked about the importance of good drinks and food when travelling. Plus I told you how much I hated A&O hostels on my first trip. In fact, I’ve never had a great experience staying at their hostels. Just like love, there are some hostels or hotels where you feel an instant connection. Superbude in Hamburg is one of those places where you feel at ease, at home. ( If you haven’t visited Superbude, here’s an earlier review of why I consider it, one of Germany’s best hostels ) Even though the staff were wearing masks, they greeted me with their eyes shining and an energetic ‘Moin’. Somethings in life, you can’t fake. It was an emotional experience to be back in a hostel again after Covid. The hostel industry has been one of the worst sectors in tourism affected really badly by Covid. I know a few travellers feel that hostels aren’t safe places to be and I wanted to reassure everyone that hostels like Superbude are doing everything to make guests feel at home and safe. Let me tell you what the Superbude are doing to help guests feel safe.

The common areas are being cleaned regularly. Every floor has a disinfection station with polite reminders for guests to wash their hands at all times. QR codes are on tables and chairs in the common area, asking guests to check in so that the staff know who was there and when.

Breakfast is to go and a very generous selection of delicious homemade muesli jars, freshly baked franzbrötchens ( True Hamburg classic sweet pastry baked with butter and cinnamon, similar to a cinnamon roll ) , delicious sandwiches, yoghurt and fruit. To minimise contact at the moment there are no social activities in the hostel. The flip side is that the hostels seem rather quiet places to be in the evenings. This was very strange for me to experience but that’s the reality that hostels and everyone in tourism is facing. I know, hope that the virus won’t be around forever. However, till things get back to normal, I hope we continue to support tourism businesses that give a real damn about you having a good holiday like Superbude. So, next trip to Hamburg, stay with them. ( Here’s a list of current special offers at Superbude ) Make a difference with your hard earned money. Amen.

We’ve established some of the ingredients of a perfect holiday in Hamburg-where to have a beer, eat and where to stay. Last but not least, where are the places I love to visit that make Hamburg perfect for me? Here’s a list from earlier but to give you an idea, let me tell you about my morning walk through the city, where I revisit some favourite spots and maybe discover a few new places.

One of the best things about staying in the Superbude is its location in the Schanze/ St Pauli area where there’s this wonderful vibe, air of electricity, especially in the summer when the locals all flock to the streets and the whole area has this vibe of a big huge summer festival. I turn right from the hostel and walk up Juliustrasse towards the colourful chaotic street of Schluterblatt. Schulterblatt is the nerve centre of Schanze where all the artists, expats, immigrants, hipsters, punks and anarchists of Hamburg congregate for drinks in the summer. The spirit of the area and Hamburg in many ways is symbolised by the Rota Flora theatre, which has been squatted in continuously since November 1989. Covered in grafitti, political slogans, the protest against the rampant gentrification of the area has now lasted 30 years and still continues with over 150 squatters occupying the building. This message of respect and tolerance for people with different values, ideals I think is what makes Hamburg unique and a very special city.

Another part of Schanzeviertel I return to on almost every visit is the Rosenhofstrasse where you’ll find a diverse range of painted/printed paper on the walls, so called pasteups with works of art from some of the world’s most famous street artists like El Bocho’s Lucy. I talked about the joy of inhabiting parallel universes – the street art scene in Hamburg is one of the mini universes, once you enter its orbit, you see the city in a different way.

While in the area, on this trip, looking at my Google Maps, I spotted a name of a store I long wanted to visit. Place is called Human Empire. My connection with them happened almost 2 years ago when I published my book, ‘The Grand Hostels: Luxury Hostels of the World.’ They were proudly displaying my book in their beautiful shop and had tagged me on Instagram. I had dropped them a line to thank them and made a promise to visit them, the next time I was in Hamburg. Somehow, I couldn’t make it to see them on recent trips but here I was on a sunny day in July, finally meeting them.

It is a beautiful store. Originally a men’s outfitters store dating back to the 60’s, with its wooden built-in wardrobes and long counter with large mirror walls, there’s a wonderful nostalgic retro quality about the place. Originally an illustration and design studio, Human Empire founders Jan and Wiebke, created a physical extension to their labour of love by creating a concept store filled with all their favourite things, ranging from paper goods such as posters, notebooks, books, magazines and wrapping paper to a fine selection of home accessories and clothing from European designers. Wiebke was in-store when I dropped and was as friendly and wonderful in person as online. We had a great chat about all things Hamburg and classic design posters from Scandinavia, one of the store’s many specialities. The conversation turned towards our mutual love of travel and she started telling me about this really cool hidden artists enclave in Leipzig. I left an hour but could have spent more time chatting to Wiebke. I leave, with a smile, enriched by the generosity of her spirit and her warmth.

The rest of the weekend in Hamburg remains a happy blur. It involved meeting some dear old friends who have been a big reason why we fell in love with Hamburg- Kathrin, Jessica and Florian. Lots of reminiscing and good food. There are few birthdays to celebrate. There’s lots of Astra. Lots of prosecco. Lots of hugging and emotional conversations. Long walks home at 5am. There is a hangover or two. There’s still more good food- an epic meal at a brand new Indian restaurant called Authentikka. We’re talking real indian food here, probably the best I’ve had in Germany.

I leave Hamburg with a heavy heart but bag full of new memories, faces of places, friends, old and new, I hope to meet again soon. The best trips in life, like love are like that. Where you feel at the end wanting more and more. The journey ends but in your mind you want to continue to draw that imaginary line through a city, this imaginary land of make believe in which you and a few friends exist. See where this new line takes you. Even as our heart seeks the unknown, the distant shores of cities far out reach, there is joy in returning to the familiar places we know we love, rediscover the imaginary worlds we carve out, those parallel universes, invisible to our eyes, waiting to welcome us again.

Disclaimer: I was invited to Hamburg as a guest of Hamburg Marketing and Superbude but the views, emotions expressed here are entirely my own.