PS: Checkout my earlier guide to Athens and also my guide to where to eat in Thessaloniki if you are planning a trip there soon.

1. Pandora

Lempesi 1, Athina 11742

Our tour starts at one of the oldest bakeries in Koukaki, Pandora which is tucked away on a side street near the Acropolis. Their main claim to fame are their heavenly pies which are an essential part of the Greek and Athenian diet and something that can be enjoyed at all times- breakfast, lunch or dinner. The pies here are made with homemade phyllo pastry and prepared on the premises daily. There is a range of pies to try with interesting filling from pumpkin to cheese and pasta.

During the tour we tried the two classic versions- spinach and cheese and chicken. Both were fantastic, the phyllo crumbly and delicious as well as the fillings. Perfect start.

2. Tavern Thomas

Dimitrakopoulou 18, Athina 11742

Our next stop is Tavern Thomas , a restaurant which is a modern take on the post-war tavern of Athens from the 1950s and beyond, aiming to revive the flavors that Athens had at the time. Dishes here range from homemade bread with olives to lamb with greens, mashed potatoes, greens, pies, Greek salad, braised meats and fish. 

Led by their passionate head chef Dimitris Panayiotou, we were treated to some olive oil tasting with their homebaked sourdough bread which was delicious. We then were served some typical mezes, which were fava bean puree and also zucchini balls. Both were fab,

We washed it all down with an excellent local white wine, Malagousia. All the items were from the nearby region of Peloponnese where the chef’s roots are. Overall, a very pleasant and nice experience.

3. Pantopolion

Dimitrakopoulou 34, Athina 11742

For our next stop, Theodore takes us to a popular local delicatessen with a twist : Pantopolion not only offers authentic Greek food specialities but serves visitors a wide variety of Greek beverages, from tsipouro, tsikoudia to wine accompanied by cold cuts of meat plus cheeses.

For our ‘third’ course of the tour, owners Giannis and Stavros served up a tasting platter of Graveira cheese from Crete , cold cuts of meats-pastrami and salami, olives accompanied by tsipouro and the famous Mastiha- a liquer made from the Mastiha resin of a tree which grows only on the island of Chios. Loved all the items, especially the salty mature Graveira cheese. 

4. Dyo Dekares Oka 

Anastasiou Zinni 29, Athina 117 41

Our last stop was a sit-down dinner of home-cooked Greek classics at one of the coziest tavernas in Athens. If you want to visit a typical Athenian tavern, this is the place, with guitars and snapshots of Greek music on the walls. Run by three brothers, the tavern feels more like a gathering of friends and family and you are being welcomed into their home. The brothers have kept alive their family recipes and culinary traditions so this as Athenian as it gets. We are treated to a delicious homemade moussaka, eggplant roasted in the oven with feta, marinated chickpeas and tzatziki.

We are full and bursting by the end so we were grateful for Theodore taking us on a walk through one of the most beautiful streets in Athens- Tsami Karatasou. You will find some of the finest example of neoclassical architecture on this street, wedged between the 70s apartment buildings and the odd few abandoned mansions with barred doors. 

‘If you want to see what Athens was like in the 50’s , this street is time-capsule of that time.’

Theodore remarks wistfully as we slowly wind our tour in front of the Acropolis. If you want to dig into Greek food culture, learn about the history of Athens and also listen to some nice personal anecdotes of what is life like as an Athenian, this tour is perfect and Theodore is great company.  My only minor quibble is that there was too much delicious food so my advice is to come hungry and skip lunch!

How to book this food tour

Athens Evening Food Tour of Koukaki lasts 3 hours ( 5.30-8.30pm ) and costs €79, booked directly via the Devour Food Tours website. 

Disclaimer- We were gifted this food tour by Devour Food Tours but the views expressed here are entirely my own. 

1. Bunna Cafe, Gozo

Address: 38A Triq ir-Repubblika, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Restaurateur Philip Spiteri’s go to place for coffee, Bunna Cafe is one of Malta’s best cafes. The coffee is wonderful as well as their food. What elevates this cafe to something special are the two ladies who run- they make a point to welcome everyone as if they were welcoming you to their home. Great hospitality, yummy sandwiches, croissants and toasts.

2. Gleneagles Bar, Gozo

Address: 10, Triq Il-Vittorja Gozo GSM 2400, Malta

Run by brothers Tony and Sammy for 5 decades, Gleneagles Bar is a Gozitan Institution . Like all great bars, it is a meeting point for locals, a hideout,  a real piece of local history.  The brothers are full of stories and you feel a real connection to the island’s history when you visit this pub. Plus, the broad sweeping view of Mgarr harbour from the balcony of the bar is amazing – you can spend hours watching people come and go. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3. Mojo’s

Address: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Probably the best lunch spot in Gozo, Mojo’s has a fabulous menu serving fresh fruit juices, epic salads, their Gozitan burger is the stuff of legends as are their sweet chill cheddar fries. Claire, the owner is a legend too and had so many nice tips to share of her island.

4. Ta’ Philip

Address: Triq Sant’ Antnin Ghajnsielem, Mġarr, Malta

Run by the affable and talented restuarnteur, Philip Spiteri, Ta Philip is the place to go to in Gozo where you can enjoy traditional Gozitan dishes slow cooked in a wood burning oven. Great selection of wines too.

5. Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s

Address: Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road,, Xewkija XWK 9014, Malta

A great place for a nice coffee or a glass of wine, ( they have an incredible wine cellar ) Vini e Capricci in Xewkija is another high quality but value for money place to eat in Gozo. On the lunch menu they have fire grilled panini starting at just €9.50 plus delicious soups and salads. ( wild fennel salad is amazing ) Signature dishes include the Risotto al Guanciale ( €10.75) and Rabbit Ravioli ( €14.75)

6. Ta’ Saminu Bakery

Address: Triq Tal-Ħamrija, Xewkija, Malta

A family-run bakery that goes back generations, Ta’ Saminu Bakery is one of the last few traditional bakeries on the island. They specialise in Gozitan style ftira, qassatat with unique fillings, biscuits and local breads which are prepared in their wood burning oven. There is always queue of locals snaking out of the bakery, always a reassuring sign.

7. Sphinx Pastizzeria

Various outlets in Gozo and Malta

If you ask any Maltese local about their favourite local dish, it is likely they will mention Pastizzi ( sounds like past-it-si) to you. 

You walk in any direction in Gozo or Malta and you will bump into a Pastizzeria. 

The classic pastizzi is in two forms, with ricotta cheese and my favourite, mashed peas.

Chef, Stephen La Rosa’s go to place is Sphinx Pastizzeria and their pastizzi is fantastic. Beyond the classics they have some adventurous flavours including their brand new truffle pastizzi.

8. Café Jubilee

Address: Pjazza l-Indipendenza, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

I finish with one of my favourite places to eat in Gozo, Café Jubilee which became an instant hit with locals in Victoria since its opening in 1998 and following its success, a restaurant in Valletta followed two years later.

For a mere €2.50 you can get one of their excellent cheese and tomato toasted sandwiches.Their signature Nanna’s Ravioli dish is just €10.95 and they are generous with their portions.

The rest of their extensive menu also ranges between these prices, which makes it a perfect place to get bang for your buck. And it’s open from 8 am till about midnight so you really don’t have any excuse not to go.

The bonus? This dimly lit cosy café is full of quirky décor (think tables and chair glued to the ceiling) which makes it perfect for a romantic meal with loved ones or friends.

Further reading

Discovering Malta with locals, no smartphone or guidebook required

Cheap eats guide to Malta

Things to do in Malta and Gozo

Disclaimer: The trip to Malta and Gozo was possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Malta and partners. However, all the opinions expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

Introduction to Chur 

Chur is a small, medieval mountain town in the Swiss Canton of the Grisons, towards the eastern part of Switzerland. Reputed to be the oldest town in the country, this perfectly preserved slice of Swiss history takes visitors back to a slow paced, peaceful, more placid way of life. In the Old Town, with its heritage buildings and leafy green vineyards creeping slowly up the surrounding hills, one could almost believe that time has stood still. Viewed from the heights of Fürhörnli, the highest point of the town, Chur appears spread out across the deeply chiseled Grisonian Rhine Valley. Known for its ancient history, dating to prehistoric times, Chur contains several heritage buildings of national importance. Strategically placed on the Rhatetian Railway route, Chur is the ideal place to hop off for a few days of rest and contemplation of the peace and beauty of the mountain scenery. 

Best things to do in Chur 

1.Exploring the Old Town

Switzerland’s oldest town can be found in the Old Town of Chur. With the additional distinction of having a history of settlement reaching back as far as five millennia, visiting Chur is like stepping into a time warp and breathing in the reality of a long forgotten past. With the majestic backdrop of formidable snow capped peaks and the dark steepled city spires of Chur reaching up to the crisp Alpine air, this lofty city seems to be locked in its medieval past. Adding to its charm is the pedestrian free Old Town, enabling visitors to freely explore its winding streets and alleys, discovering town squares, old churches, painted murals, cafés, shops and museums. 

2. Explore the town by playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore all of Chur’s main sights is by playing a game of Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any form of living environment, from narrow winding cobbled streets of Chur to disused  industrial warehouses and school playgrounds. In Chur, you can hire for a small price, a set of golf clubs and a special softball from the tourist information office along with a map of the 9 holes to master which are spread across alleys and plazas in Chur’s picturesque old town. It is really fun way to discover and interact with a place , drawing you into parts of town you may have missed. It always elicits wonder and amusement from locals and tourists alike so there is never a dull moment. It is a lot of fun and something that people of all ages can enjoy.

Essentials:  To play the full 9 holes across Chur with friends or family costs 15 CHF. It takes around 2.5 – 3 hours to complete all the 9 holes. A deposit fee of CHF 10.00 per person is required , in cash when you pick up the equipment at the ‘Tourist Information’ ( Bahnhofstrasse 32, 7001 Chur ) . The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 soft ball, 1 “bäseli” and 1 lanyard. The deposit will be returned when the equipment is returned. 

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or Saint Mary of the Assumption Cathedral is a Catholic Church borne of the perfect marriage of Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. Perched high up on a hillside, surrounded by lush vineyards, the Episcopal Court contains both the 800 year old Cathedral and its neighbouring Bishop’s Palace. Dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary the stunning golden Gothic altar contrasts with the exterior – a nod to Eastern influences shaping its construction due to its proximity to major ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral is three naved and it’s central nave is fashioned from rock from Scalära. The portal of the main entryway is bolstered by six columns that are held aloft by six coloured archways. Notable interior features of the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the carved choir and the spectacular stained glass arched window. 

3. St. Martin’s Church

The Gothic spire of St Martin’s Church leaves an indelible impression on the skyline of Old Town Chur due to its character and the longevity of its existence in Chur. Built in the eighth century in tribute to St Martin, Bishop of Tours, the once Romanesque Church was burnt down in 1464 and rebuilt in the Gothic design. An ethereal feature of the Church is the more recent addition of three stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower, with pointed black spire is a convenient landmark in the centre of town and the view from the church tower of Old Town and the surrounds shouldn’t be missed. 

4. Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum is devoted to the history and culture of the surrounding area, i.e. the Graubinden Canton. It is a treasure chest of ethnographic, archeological and sociological finds and information. This permanent exhibition is spread over four floors of the Baroque museum building, originally built in 1675, which is a piece of history in itself. Young children can benefit from a visit to the museum too. A fun way to learn about each of the exhibits from a child’s perspective is to pick up a special key from the ticketing office. Each room in the museum contains a locked box, which when opened with the key reveals information about the history of individual exhibits. Not only is this a good way to impart knowledge from a different angle, it also makes each child feel extremely special. 

There is a small museum shop that proudly displays carefully curated gifts and souvenirs. The museum is mostly wheelchair accessible. 

Prices for tickets start at 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for pensioners and students while children under 16 can visit for free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

5. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Only a two minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graunünden, spanning over three hundred years. The beautiful heritage building, Villa Planta, is graced by a recent extension – designed by Barozzi Veiga and the combined unit, spread over 1200 square metres is home to 8000 pieces of art. The museum with has strong focus on contemporary art featuring artists that have a strong connection to Graubünden like Angelika Kauffmann, the artist family Giacometti, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the artist group ‘Rot-Blau.’

Entry fee for adults is 15 CHF for adults while kids under 16 go free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

6. Explore the Street Art

Chur is home to the most renowned street artists in the world, BANE. You can find his murals, astonishing in terms of scale and detail, spread across the city. 

Unmissable works include Mühleturm , the ”creative landmark” of Chur and the largest mural painting in Switzerland and “I have a dream” ( 2015) which he painted with the street artist Pest.

7. Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier 

Directly above Chur and easily reached by cable car, Brambrüesch is a hikers paradise in summer with glorious meadows filled with diverse Alpine Flora and incredible panoramic views of the mountains that encircle Arosa, the Schanfigg and the Lenzerheide. The trail starts off with a quite pleasant and scenic walk through the forest to the Malixer Alp. If you haven’t haven’t had lunch you have the option of dining in the Bergbaiz which serves hearty, fine local Alpine cuisine for affordable prices. After a relatively gentle hike, it gets more scenic and interesting as you ascend higher to the Galti-Alp. This is the highest point of the hike and the surrounding views are spectacular here. For someone who is a hiking novice and a bit afraid of heights, I really enjoyed the hike despite some initial fears. The range of flora and fauna, the views -truly is a unique experience. It is a gradual decent into Pradaschier where the cosy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its glorious sun terrace offers visitors a chance to unwind with a drink or some enjoy some hearty Graubünden fare like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the descent to Churwalden via a spectacular toboggan ride- three kilometers long and with 31 bends, some of them hairpin curves, this toboggan ride is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest track-guided railway in Europe. The toboggan ride down is 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for kids from ages 13-17 and 9 CHF for kids under 13.

Note: If you have the Guest Card Chur, you get 50% off the ascent and decent on the  Chur-Brambrüesch cableways.

Where to eat in Chur 

I will be publishing next a more comprehensive guide on where to eat and drink but here a few tips. If you are looking for traditional homemade Italian cuisine at an affordable price then Da Mamma’s is the place to come. Fixed price 2 course vegetarian lunch menu is just 16.30 CHF is one of the best value lunch deals in town. If you love South Indian/ Tamil cuisine, then you should also pop into Yaal for their lunchtime buffet which start at just 19.90 CHF. Next door neighbour to the Bogentrakt Hostel, Kostbar, where you have a good mix of local food like the Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort food like burgers and curries. Prices start from 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers a range of salads, sandwiches and snacks at affordable prices. For example, a salad nicoise costs 8.50 CHF. Last but not least, try Wok and Momo, a tibetan run diner with a range of dishes , from their excellent value stir fry wok noodles ( from 7 CHF) to momos ( 18.50 CHF).

Special mention must go to Polenta 7000, a summer pop up festival run by local creatives and kindred spirits where visitors can enjoy delicious food ( Chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF) concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, open air cinema, childrens circus. The season wraps up on 26th September 2023 but keep your eye out on the Polenta 7000 website for next summers pop up.

Best Day Trips from Chur 

Chur to Tirano with the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a must if you are visiting Chur.  The train traverses one of the world’s most spectacular and scenic routes, providing passengers with a mesmerising, once in a lifetime travel experience. Starting in the Chur, the Bernina Express glides up the Swiss Engadin Alps to culminate its journey at the Italian city of Tirano. The train spans an astonishing 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, winds up high altitude mountain passes, passes glaciers, alpine lakes, twists around spiral viaducts, skirting glaciers and hopping over country borders. Highlights of the journey include the soaring Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2253 metres, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct an architectural marvel, with some of the most jaw dropping scenery in the stretch between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm gauge is fully electrified and uses 7% gradients to negotiate sharp differences in heights. The panorama cars offer an immersive travelling experience for passengers and enable them to drink in the sights and take photos and videos to their heart’s content. Audio guides in a variety of languages are also available describing the surroundings. 

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines on the Bernina Express were declared World Heritage Sites in 2008. The Albula line  runs from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. The Bernina Line from Pontresina ascends the valley to the heights of the Bernina Pass. South of the Alps, the train traverses glaciers, lakes and mountains and then proceeds eventually towards the Swiss Italian border, to end at Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps, and somehow manages year-round travel, despite thick snow drifts in deep midwinter.

Where to stay in Chur on a budget

Bogentrakt Hostel 

One of my main hostel finds of the year was this beautiful new design hostel in the picturesque town of Chur, the oldest  inhabited town in Switzerland. It is one of those rare hostels which is really embedded in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made so many friends across the city. Chur is that kind of place where locals are super friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel, set in the heart of Chur against the scenic backdrop of vineyards, has a dark history and used to be the “toughest prison in Switzerland. Owner Marco Leibundgut transformed it into a vibrant hostel, giving the historic building a new lease of life.. The hostel’s name, “Bogentrakt,”is  a German word that translates to “curved wing” or “arched wing” and pays homage to the prison’s distinct curved structure.

Old, former prison cells have been tastefully converted into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colourful history of the prison and former inmates via QR codes and pictures which are visible throughout the hostel. 

The facilities are brilliant and perfect for nomads- dedicated coworking space at no extra charge, a really nice guest kitchen which guests can use to cook from ( handy given how expensive eating out is in Switzerland) plus a common room with a library, board games and also a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel also helps with your laundry which is very handy. The hostel reception has a drinks kiosk with local drinks and a beer on tap if you are feeling thirsty. There is also a small shop with local products, food essentials, everyday body products in case you run out during your stay. Hostel organises dinners and also has plans for hostel happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. The hostel also has a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar which is nice to have a beer and relax, especially in the summer months when the terrace is open. The Sennhof, the original complex where the hostel is located is also home to local designers, a beautiful flower shop and also an art gallery so you really feel a sense of community and being part of the everyday life of the town.

There is a range of beautiful hikes and nature within a short distance of the hostel so that is another big plus for staying here. Room rates start from 32 CHF per bed per night, Doubles from 99 CHF per room, per night. There is a special prices of 399 CHF for a weeks stay, booking directly via the hostel website.

There is a 10% discount for BudgetTraveller readers who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel: Please quote BUDGETTRAVELLER when booking. Plus anyone who books with my code will also receive a free mystery local drink on arrival.

Free Guest Card Chur

It is worth again reminding that anyone staying overnight at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur will be eligible for free the Guest Card Chur which gives you access to a wonderful range of benefits which include:-

1. Free use of public transport in the TransReno fare network, Zone 1 (2nd Class). Not valid for bikes and dogs. Valid after check-in. Bernina Express and Glacier Express is not included.

      2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the outdoor swimming pool Sand

      3. Free entry to the local museums: Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History, Graubünden Art Museum

      4.Chur-Brambrüesch cableways: Visitors get a 50% discount on the ascent and descent 25% discount on bike day tickets              (Alpenbikepark Chur and bike day ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). To get your ticket please show your guest card at the               cableways ticket office. The tickets of the guest cards are valid up to and including 5 pm. The evening rides and the rides             on 1 August are not included.

Best things to do in Chur: FAQ

Disclaimer

I was invited to Chur as a guest of Bogentrakt Hostel and Chur Tourismus. However, all the opinions, good and bad are  entirely mine.

1. Breakfast at Best Western Hotel Via Regia

Start the day with the very filling buffet breakfast at the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where I had checked in the night before. A really stylish modern hotel, affordable too plus just a short walking distance from the train station.

From homemade bircher muesli to natural yoghurt and fresh fruits, cakes and doughnuts to smoked salmon -there’s something for everyone in the hotel breakfast. Plus you have unlimited fresh coffee, tea and juices. Loved the fact that lot of the items were locally sourced-from the bread and rolls to the mustard and Bauernmettwurst ( from Bautzen)

2. Enjoy the architecture

Walking Görlitz is a time travellers dream. With over 4500 listed buildings, the city is a timeline of all the major architectural styles of the last 3-4 centuries: from Baroque to Renaissance to Neoclassical to Art Deco, the range and style of buildings is incredible.Every corner, every twist and you’re in Babylon Berlin or 1920’s Paris – the city is like a movie set. The architecture of Gorlitz is best appreciated on foot-Gorlitz is a very compact city or to get a different perspective, climb to the top of the Rathaus Tower.

3. Visit the Grand Budapest Hotel

One of the reasons I was excited to visit Görlitz was to see the setting for the Grand Budapest Hotel- an abandoned, Art Nouveau department store in Görlitz called Görlitzer Warenhaus (An der Frauenkirche 5-7 )

Anderson found the space while location scouting for the movie and promptly fell in love with its unique, historical architecture. Thanks to the fantastic privileges of my day job, we got an whole hour to explore the building. Note: Despair not. You don’t need to be a blogger or have 5 million klubeks to visit ‘The Grand Budapest Hotel’ -you can visit the building for FREE only on Thursdays, Friday evenings only.  There’s definitely something about a movie setting coming to life right in front of your eyes. I recognise the exquisite stairways, elevators, and atrium of the building from the movie. At one point, I try to stop taking photos and keep my phone back in my pocket to soak it all in. The fact that the building remains abandoned and empty just adds more to the illicit charm of visiting the place. Visit soon though, the building has been acquired with plans to redevelop it into a luxury good store.

4. Visit the Untermarkt

The Untermarkt is the older of two market squares that are to be found in Gorlitz. This a beautiful square, featuring charming Renaissance buildings, cobblestone streets and overarching arcades. Keen movie lovers will be familiar with the square from movies like The Grand Budapest Hotel and Around the World in 80 days ( with Jackie Chan ) It has a timeless look and feel, very reminiscent of Vienna or Paris. The magical atmosphere of the square is enhanced by the odd busker and small cafes dotting the square where you’ll find a mix of tourists and locals enjoying a drink, or a bite to eat.

The Untermarkt is also host to festivals like Tippelmarkt and Altstadtfest. Some of the places to visit in and around the Untermarkt are the Rathaus (town hall), the Neues Rathaus, the Schonhof houses of the Silesian Museum, a Renaissance house in the middle of the Untermarkt called the Waage, the Brauner Hirsch- a baroque town house and the ‘Whispering Arch’ or Flüsterbogen.

5. Rathaus-Take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views of Gorlitz

Definitely take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views in Gorlitz. The city hall tower or Rathausturm was built in the 16th century. It’s best feature is the panoramic view it provides onto the town of Gorlitz but apart from that it has intricate clocks, sundials and an organ piping lion for special effect! There are two clocks in the tower: one is the moon phase clock that is part of the lunar calendar and the other clock has the head of a warrior, eye rolling and sticking out his tongue, every hour on the hour, set in the middle of the dial.

The Town Hall tour is available from March to December and only from Wednesday to Sunday. The designated meeting point is at the stairs of the Town Hall stairs, Untermarkt 6-8 (no reservation needed) Tours always run on the hour from 11am to 6pm. Duration of the tour is 45 minutes. Fee for the tour for adults is €4 and for children 6 to 14 years, the fee is €1,50

6. Lunch at Restaurant Destille

The Restaurant Destille is one of Gorlitz’s best restaurants where you can eat everything from lasagne, pasta, salads, steaks to more traditional local dishes like the famous Schlesisches Himmelreich which is pork roast, ham, dumplings, and stewed fruit in a white sauce.

7. Visit the Silesian Museum of Gorlitz

Silesia was once a culturally distinct country with its own history. Olden day Silesia was part of present day Poland with small parts in the Czech Republic and Germany. Gorlitz was selected as the location for the museum celebrating Silesian history because Gorlitz is Germany’s largest Silesian town. The Town of Gorlitz donated the museum building – the Schonhof (Beautiful Court) and later a museum administration building Zum Goldenen Baum (The Golden Tree) was acquired. The permanent collection offers a good glimpse into the history of Silesia. Here you can view the arts and crafts of the 17th to 19th centuries. Highlights from the collection include geographical views of Silesia, art objects from the Riesengebirge. Donations from the Silesian people abound here. Coins, ceramic and other beautiful artefacts can be seen here.

Address: Untermarkt 4, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

Hours: Tues-Thurs- 10am-5pm

Rates: Adults- €6, Concessions- €4

8. Whispering Arch” aka Flüsterbogen

Delight in a spot of secret whispering around the Whispering Arch or Flüsterbogen in the Untermarkt of Gorlitz. Whisper sweet nothings at one end of the overhead arch and a person positioned at the other end of the arch is perfectly poised to listen in. This is a little piece of magic in Gorlitz that should not be missed.

Address: Untermarkt, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

9. The Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences aka the Harry Potter Library of Gorlitz

Barely a few minutes walk on Neißstraße 30 is another gorgeous baroque house- The Kulturhistorisches Museum (cultural history museum) which houses the stunning Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences. The unique and beautiful library is arranged with beech shelves in the middle of the room, instead of along the walls. This gives the feeling and the grandeur of being on a stage and it really takes your breath away. The library often features on list of the most beautiful libraries in the world. It contains 40,000 volumes with numerous rarities and treasures, including medieval manuscripts and incunabula, which were the earliest printed books before 1501.

Essentials: The museum is open Tuesday – Sunday and admission is €5. Every Monday at 11am there is guided tour of the library.

10. Cross the Neisse river into Poland

A short walk across the 200 feet wide Altstadtbrücke (Old Town Bridge) will bring you to the other half of the city, the Polish city of Zgorzelec. The proximity of the two cities makes Görlitz a unique location where you can experience two countries and cultures in one place.The bridge only became fully accessible as late as 2007 when Poland gained accession to the EU. Once you cross the bridge, signs in a drab font advertising cheap cigarettes and booze giveaway the fact that you are now in Poland. A pretty row of restored houses lines the riverbank on the Polish side. One of them bears the plaque of its most iconic resident, Görlitz’s most famous son, Jacob Böhme, a philosopher and Christian mystic born in the 16th century. The house has a Jacob Böhme exhibition where you can learn more about his life. Enjoy a symbolic Zywiec beer at one of the restaurants lining the river. We chose Ristorante & Pizzeria Espresso-good prices and friendly staff.

11. Coffee and cake at Cafe Herztstuck

Cafe Herzstück (Weberstraße 2 ) was one of my finds from the trip- very alternative cafe with a focus on vegan and vegetarian cuisine plus great coffee. On the surface it seems like any other normal, cosy cafe but my eye spots a row of Singer sowing machines. Apparently you can come and rent the sowing machines by the hour. The cafe also organises book readings & concerts to praline chocolate making classes and table football classes-there’s something for everyone here.

12. Beers at Brauerei Bierblume

Formerly a brewery dating back to the 18th century, come and relax in the beautiful inner courtyard where you’ll find locals on wooden benches supping on their delicious homemade beer in large glass mugs-an oasis of calm and great beer in the city, definitely make a point to visit this brewery and say hello to the friendly Alex Klaus, the owner and brewer. Perfect place to end your day in Gorlitz.

Essential facts

Fly into Berlin or Dresden and then take the train to Görlitz . Trains run frequently between Dresden and Gorlitz ( €24, 1 to 1 1/2 hours) If you are coming from Berlin , change in Cottbus ( €44, 2 1/2 hours )

Where to stay in Görlitz

One of the best deals in town is the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where you can grab a private rooms for as little as €70 a night via Booking.com

Hotel rooms are modern, extremely comfortable and clean. The hotel serves a very generous buffet breakfast. Only minor drawback is the location- hotel is a 5 minute walk from the station and a bit far from the centre of town. Perfect if you have a car.

Another excellent budget option for couples or solo travellers is centrally located Görlitz “Old Town” Europe Youth Hostel. Located in a beautiful period building. ( one of the grandest buildings on the square-it really doesn’t like a hostel from outside ) the hostel has large inner courtyard that is perfect to relax in after a day of sightseeing, generous buffet breakfast plus simple but comfortable rooms-altogether this hostel is a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. Room prices start from €60 a night for a double and include breakfast. A bed in a multi bed dorm starts from €25 per person, per night and includes breakfast.

Disclaimer

My stay in Görlitz was possible thanks to the support of the Saxony Tourism Board who invited me to discover some of the region’s lesser known cities: Meissen, Görlitz and Bautzen. I’d like to take the opportunity to let you know that while my trip was supported by the tourism board, the article and all the views represented here are entirely mine. Thank you for reading.

Feldkirch marks the westernmost point of Austria, right on the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein. It is your archetype postcard pretty Austrian town with a well preserved old town that has remained unchanged for centuries, crowned by the glorious Schattenberg Castle and the Gothic-style cathedral of St. Nikolaus.

It is a city that you can easily visit in a day thanks to its very pedestrian friendly centre packed with numerous cafes, restaurants and bars. It also is a perfect base to explore Vorarlberg- Feldkirch railway station lies on the main railway line through the state with regular inter-city services to Zurich and Vienna. Whether you wish to spend a few hours or longer, to help you make the most of your trip, I’ve created a guide to some of the best things to do in Feldkirch, based around local tips I received on my recent trip to the city.

Unusual facts about Feldkirch

The city has a special connection to the Irish writer James Joyce. The unusual connection starts around 1915, when Joyce was mistaken for a spy at the border check in Feldkirch. With the help of friends with connections, Joyce gets released but the incident left its mark on Joyce and subsequently, influenced his most important work, Finnegans Wake. Joyce returned to Feldkirch in the summer of 1932 with the help of publisher couple Maria and Eugene Jolas. Joyce stayed for several weeks at the Hotel Löwen where he wrote Finnegans Wake.

Best things to do in Feldkirch

1. Cool architecture- Montforthaus Feldkirch

If you’re an architecture nerd, you will love Vorarlberg and especially the Montforthaus in Feldkirch. Standing on the edge of the town and looming under the watchful gaze of the Schattenburg castle lies the Montforthaus with its beautiful rounded facades. Built in 2015 on the former location of a congress centre from the 1970s, this modern new building designed by the Berlin architects Hascher Jehle and the Vorarlberg architect Mitiska/Wäger Architekten replaced an architectural dinosaur that had become stylistically and functionally outdated. It is a stunning building that really integrates well with its medieval surroundings thanks to the large glass front.

The Montforthaus is open during the day, a tour or a visit to the restaurant with roof terrace is always possible and worthwhile. In the evening there are many events on the programme.

2. Climb to the top -Schattenburg Castle and Museum

To get a nice aerial perspective of the city, we climbed up to the medieval Schattenburg castle, the once upon a time residence of the Duke of Montfort. Housing a restaurant, the castle also features a museum. Spread across 18 rooms, each room focussing on a different side to the city’s history. The museum ticket also gives guests access to the castle chapel and to the keep. The best part is the panoramic view of the city from the rooftop gallery.

3. Feldkirch Old Town

We arrived late in the evening, dropped our bags and spent a good hour roaming the medieval heart of the city with its winding , cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved period buildings. It was late in the evening on a Sunday so we had the whole place to ourselves and it was the perfect start to the trip. The main heart of the Old Town is Marktgasse where the twice weekly market takes place and also the annual Christmas market.

4. Wildpark Feldkirch

If you are visiting with family and young ones, the local Wildpark ( € Free to enter ) with several marked forest trails is a perfect start to the day. There are over 140 animals located in the park within large enclosures. The park also features a huge adventure playground for the wee ones plus there is a kiosk onsite selling various drinks and food.

5. Buddhist Monastery Letzehof

One of the more unusual and cool things to do in Feldkrich is to pay a visit to the Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of the town. It is a good hour hike but once you reach the monastery, it really feels a world away from the city with the Tibetan payer flags fluttering in the wind and the glorious dome of the Buddhist stupa glistening in the sunshine. The Letzehof or ‘Getznerhof’, as it was also called at that time was a farm till the estate became a refuge for monks from Tibet in 1982. Tibetan monk Gesche Rabten Rinpoche founded the monastery and study centre and a year later the Dalai Lama visited. 

6.Paspels Badesee

We visited Paspels Badesee on the recommendation of a local and wow, this lake was stunning. We timed our visit perfectly before sunset. It was an early Autumn evening and the weather was still warm and there was gaggle of locals bathing in the lake. Beside a large sunbathing area on the banks there’s a wee biergarten- the Seeblick-Stüble, which serves a range of hot and cold snacks plus beer on draft. Sunset was perfect, so if the weather is nice, come in the evening and don’t forget your bathing costume. Public toilets are also available.

Where to eat in Feldkirch

7. Lunch at La Bottega del Gusto

Tucked away in the heart of the old town is a little slice of Italian heaven. The owner and chef Nico is a man of few words and there is no set menu here. The menu is simple with a few suggestions -everything we tasted here was delicious. For €9.95 for 2 courses including a glass of wine, this is a cracking bargain.

8. Coffee at Backerei Mangold

Feldkirch is blessed with a bunch of independent cafes and bakeries but we really liked Backerei Mangold, a home grown family run chain of bakeries in 30 locations across Vorarlberg, dating back to 1850. Their bread has won numerous awards and they serve great pastries, cakes plus good coffee. Definitely worth a visit.

9. Dinner at Restaurant Kantine

If you are a sucker for stone baked thin Napolitan style pizza you will love Kantine- best pizza in the area.The appetisers are really good, especially the grilled Cauliflower in the oven-very tasty. 

Where to stay in Feldkirch

10. Night Inn Feldkirch

Conveniently located next to the train station, the Night Inn Hotel is a modern, comfortable option with stylish rooms ( some with views onto the train station where you can sit by the window and see the trains come and go, if that’s your kind of jam ) and also a very decent buffet breakfast. Staff are a mixed bag-some friendly and some bit cold, impersonal but that could be the language barrier.

Getting there and away to Feldkirch

The nearest airport to Feldkirch is Zürich while Stuttgart is an option too. Swiss Railways (SBB/CFF/FFS) operates a train from Zürich HB to Feldkirch hourly. Tickets start from €44 and the journey takes 1h 29m. Alternatively, FlixBus operates a bus from Flughafen/Messe to Bregenz bus station twice daily.

Further resources

Checkout my earlier guide of the best things to do in Vorarlberg and also my story of Vorarberg’s mesmerising architectural heritage.

Disclaimer

I was invited to the Feldkirch by the Vorarlberg Tourism Board . As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Katharina Fa, Katrin Preuss and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for showing us your beautiful home and making our time there memorable. 

Where to eat in Riga

1. Mārtiņa Beķereja, Riga’s oldest bakery

Address: Brīvības iela 80

For a tasty breakfast with a difference , head to the oldest bakery in Riga for breakfast, Mārtiņa Beķereja where you can savour local pastries for as little as € 0.50 cents! You will find a wide range of baked goods, ranging from pies and pastries to cakes. I would recommend trying their pastries. Mix it up, with their savoury pizza like Pikanta pastry and then finish off with their excellent sweet cherry Kirsu pastry. Both were delicious and cost just €1.65!

2. Āgenskalns Market 

Address: Nometņu iela 64

Next stop is Āgenskalns Market. Dating back to 1898, it is the largest and oldest market in the city and recently re-opened last year after a massive renovation. On the first floor of the renewed pavilion, you can buy local products from farmers, home producers and traders.

There is a lot to choose from. I tried the Latvian style cottage cheese pancakes aka Biezpiena Placenisi , perfect with sour cream or cherry jam. Then I tried the local speciality- Sidonia aka Quince lemonade. This was fresh and very tasty. Locals describe it as non alcoholic Prosecco!

I finish up with a cup of coffee from Kalve Coffee , one of Latvia’s leading coffee roasters. On the second floor , you will find a food court that showcases some of Latvia’s best local eateries like the popular Ausmena Kebabs from Rezekne and Vīnkalni, probably Riga’s best pizzeria.

3. Riga Central Market

Address: Nēģu iela 7

Make time to visit Riga Central Market , one of biggest central markets and bazaars in Eastern Europe.The market has five pavilions that have been repurposed from the German Zeppelin hangars that date back to the 1920’s. The complex built in the Art Deco and Neoclassical style is a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Riga Old Town.

You can find all kinds of local delicacies, like smoked fish and meat to pickled veggies, beetroot and local cheeses.

Personal highlights of the market include the Rupnicas Veikals kiosk at the back of the market which serves local beers, Kvass and generous glasses of wine for dirt cheap prices. I recommend trying a few of the maizītes aka Latvian open sandwiches, served on rye bread. Toppings ranged from pickled herrings to eggs with anchovies and smoked salmon. These were so so good and each costing a couple of euros.

My other top tip for the market is Registan, an Uzbekistan cafe and bakery. Everything here looked so good, especially the Uzbek flatbread straight from their tandoor oven. Try the goat curry samsa. 

4. Burzma

Address: Galerija Centrs, 4th floor, Audēju iela 16

Burzma is a new food hall concept in Riga where you can try everything from oven-baked pizza, traditional Latvian pork chops to Ukrainian, Mexican, Georgian & Asian cuisines plus delicious drinks, cocktails from Herbarijs.

I tried the delicious Juskaa soup with white garlic bread from Ukrainian restaurant, Borscs. ( €5 ) Other classic dishes you can savour here include grechanka, and pampushka and lesser-known delights like sirnik. Then there is the Boom Cafe buffet where you can sample some a mix of local and international cuisine, prices starting from €2-€3 per dish.

5. Lauvas Nams

Address: Brīvības iela 82

I wanted to visit an ednica, which is the Latvian version of the milk bar but could not make it to one so instead I came to this buffet restaurant , situated across from the local theatre. It is open 24 hours so is very popular with locals, especially after hours when people are hungry after a night out.

The dishes are very affordable and you have a lot of choice. I tried some goulash with mashed potato- was super tasty. The most interesting dish was definitely the cold beet soup aka Aukstā zupa With an unusual, deep pink color, this soup is made with beets, cucumbers, kefir and sometimes a hard-boiled eggs. There is a topping of dill and scallions a dash of vinegar to give that extra tart flavour.

6. Singh’s

Address: Ģertrūdes iela 32

Possibly the best Indian in Riga with a chef and many staff members from India. They will ask you how spicy you want your meal; and they will make things hot!

7. Terra

Address; Blaumana iela 9

Cheap and can easily be made to-go, this place specializes in large salads or a simple carbs + meat hot combo. If you like the food, get yourself a stamp-card for a free meal.

8. Tavs Banh Mi

Address: Ģertrūdes iela 9

Across from the Embassy, this is Riga’s only vendor of traditional banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich). Tavs Banh Mi understands the importance of sriracha sauce which is served with every order. Note that this place closes at 20:00.

Where to find good vegetarian , vegan food in Riga

9. Rama / Stock Pot / Terapija

Rama (Kr. Barona iela 56 ) is the only completely vegetarian restaurant in Riga as meat (including fish and chicken) do not even enter the premise. This restaurant is attached to the Hare Krishna Centre and charges by weight, after 19:30 prices are reduced.

PS: If you are looking for affordable Asian food, try Stock Pot. ( Ģertrūdes iela 6 ) Lots of tasty vegan and meat options are available and there’s always something interesting to eat here. Another fantastic choice for lunch is the fantastic Vegan restaurant Terapija where you can get a soup + main course ( I had a delicious falafel salad) for as little as €4.70 (12-4pm)

Where to drink in Riga

10. Tallinn Street Quarter

Address: Radošais kvartāls, Tallinas iela,

Another hip, cool emerging spot in Riga is the Tallinn Street Quarter (Tallinas kvartāls), a former ambulance depot that has been revived and now filled with hip bars, street food sellers. In between transformed abandoned buildings there is huge central courtyard hosting many events. In terms of vibe and character, this place reminded me a lot of Kasarna Karlin in Prague and LxFactory in Lisbon.

11. Zefirs

Address: Sporta iela 2, Vidzemes priekšpilsēta

Serving stonebaked pizzas and delicious cocktails in a lively atmosphere ( really good electronic music ) , Zefirs is in the upcoming Skanste neighbourhood of Riga, next to the very hip and cool wine bar, Paisums.

12. Herbarijs

Address: Dzirnavu iela 67

Inside Burzuma you will also find the cool concept bar, Herbarijs where you can try delicious cocktails and drinks. 

I recommend trying the Cascara Lemonade, a caffeinated lemonade with a balsamic citrus taste and also a pleasant grapefruit bitterness.  Plus try the delicious Alica Ingvers, a ginger Lemonade made with Latvian-grown Caucasian plum. 

13. Kanepas Kulturas Centre

Address: Skolas iela 15

This once derelict, 100 year-old building is now a hub for drinks, chat and cultural activities. The centre has a yard which hosts many gatherings on summer nights. Check the Facebook page for details of what’s on: https://www.facebook.com/Zoo.KKc/

14. Valmiermuiza Craft Brewery

Address: Aristida Briāna iela 9a

Enjoy tasty beers snacks, hearty Latvian fare and delicious beers at the Latvian brewery Valmiermuiža. The beer is brewed with great care from the highest quality ingredients. Sample everything from age-old malt beer, shandies and distilled lager. You can follow this up by beers at Labieties and then finish off at Piens.

Where to stay in Riga on a budget

Disclaimer

I visited Riga as part of a storytelling project focussing on Latvian food culture with Magnetic Latvia (LIAA). While my trip was covered by LIAA, all the opinions expressed here are entirely my own. Paldies to LIAA for bringing me back to Riga-I really hope to return soon.

Famous for being home to Noma, the world’s best restaurant and a leader in the New Nordic cuisine movement, Copenhagen has the reputation of being an expensive place to dine out. However, with a bit of research and planning, I am proud to share with you my guide on where to eat in Copenhagen on a budget. I have shared below my list of the best hostels in Copenhagen, best cheap eats in Copenhagen and also given you three tips for the best affordable restaurants in Copenhagen

10 Best Budget Hostels and Hotels in Copenhagen - BudgetTraveller

Planning a trip to Copenhagen? Checkout our guide on where to stay in Copenhagen on a budget- the best hostels and hotels, that won't break the bank.

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PS: If you are planning a trip to Copenhagen, checkout also my recent review of Next House Copenhagen– the hottest new luxury hostel in town plus this great guide from Sofia Vasconcelos on how to enjoy Copenhagen on a budget for families.

1.Absalon

Address: Sønder Blvd. 73, 1720 København, Denmark

Absalon is hands down one of my favourite cheap eats in Copenhagen and dining experiences – think of it as your living room away from home…your breakfast café, your afternoon hangout, your evening bar and the place you eat dinner with over 180 other strangers! Located in an old historic church on Vesterbro’s Sønder Boulevard, there is a wonderful sense of community here where you will find a great mix of Vesterbro citizens and tourists, of all ages, colour, creed mixing together on tables, enjoying some delicious food and meeting strangers from all over the city and the world. During summer, they move the long tables outside when the weather allows.

Dinner ( 5.30-7pm ) costs just 50 dkk but you need to buy tickets for the dinner online until 16:00 on the day. Leftover tickets are sold at the door from 17:00.

It was one of the best evenings I had in Copenhagen. I left with a full heart , belly but also a slight sense of regret- why aren’t they more communal dining experiences like this in the world?

2.Madglad

Address: Eskildsgade 13, 1657 København V, Denmark

Madglad is another Vesterbro classic, which similar to Absalon, offers the possibility of a cozy, communal dining experience at a very affordable price. Monday to Friday, between 16:30 and 21:00pm, guests are invited to grab a seat at one of the long tables with colorful tablecloths, where you can be joined by a complete stranger. Definitely one of the best cheap restaurants in Copenhagen in terms of quality, experience and price.

All you can eat daily special, served with different salads, hummus, and bread costs 85 dkk while  the vegetarian lunch buffet starts from around 40-50 dkk.

3. All you can eat Copenhagen: Try RizRaz Copenhagen 

Address: Store Kannikestræde 19, 1169 København, Denmark

Another fabulous, high quality, if slightly more expensive buffet that caters for vegans and vegetarians is RizRaz. There are two RizRaz restaurants in Copenhagen, one located at St. Kannikestræde and another at Kompagnistræde.

You can order a la carte dishes like their tasty burgers but their generous vegetarian buffet, with dishes like falafels, hummus, pizza, pasta and salad is incredible value. The lunch buffet ( 11.30 till 3pm ) starts at 145 dkk and the evening buffet ( 3 till Midnight) is 185 dkk.

4. Det Græske Spisehus Ellas

Address: Fiolstræde 21, 1171 København, Denmark

Det Græske Spisehus Ellas is a piece of Greece in the heart of Copenhagen where you will always find a lively, friendly atmosphere and some really tasty, affordable traditional Greek cuisine. The food is cooked according to family recipes passed onto the owner Christos by his mother Chrisula, who originally opened the kitchen. The idea for the restaurant came to Christos after he noticed the lack of affordable, good quality Greek dining options in Copenhagen. Lunch buffet starts from just 129 dkk. ( Evening buffet from 169 dkk )

5. Reffen: Copenhagen Street Food

Address: Refshalevej 167, 1432 København, Denmark

If you want food that is local, authentic and cheap then do not look farther than Copenhagen Street Food, a colourful streetfood market situated on Refshaleøen island, a man made island covering a huge 6000m2 area where visitors can enjoy their dishes and drinks with front-row views of Copenhagen harbour. You can enjoy food from four corners of the world, (Korean, Mexico, Italian and Danish  ) courtesy of 50 start-ups. bars and creative workshops.sit in the sun on one of their deckchairs and enjoy panoramic views of the city’s waterfront.

My favourite place to eat here is a Gambian food startup here called Baobab- their Domodar aka peanut butter stew is really delicious with a chicken or vegan version ( 79 dkk )

6. Best cheap smørrebrød in Copenhagen: Domhusets Smørrebrød

Address: Kattesundet 18, 1458 København K, Denmark

Nothing is more typically Danish to me than the humble open-faced sandwiches aka smørrebrød. To sample one of the best  smørrebrød’s in Copenhagen, nip into Domhusets Smørrebrød (Kattesundet 18) on one of the side streets off Strøget. My favourite here is the Stjerneskud : egg, shrimp and caviar, potato with a dollop of mayonnaise and fried onions on top. Each open faced sandwich costs just 15 dkk which is about €2. Another place to try smørrebrød is Slotskælderen Gitte Kik.

Other smørrebrød favourites to try 

Fridas (really close to Steel House Copenhagen hostel)

Frk. Barnas Kælder

Sorgenfri

7. Tommi’s Burger Joint Kødbyen

Address: Høkerboderne 21-23, 1712 København, Denmark

Kødbyen or the Meatpacking District in Vesterbro is one of Copenhagen’s most popular places to go out, and Tommi´s is one of the reasons why. Expect quality fast food burgers, quality thin cut fries with a buffet of hot sauces and relishes to douse them in, tasty milkshakes, craft beers all served with a generous dose of Icelandic flair.

Veggie burger offer which includes fries and a soda is 99 dkk  (€13) while their Hamburger offer is 119 dkk ( €16)

8. Banana Joe, Nørrebro

Address: Elmegade 18, 2200 København, Denmark

Nørrebro is the multicultural hub of Copenhagen, with a mix of the city’s finest restaurants, bars and a bunch of great ethnic eats.

Thanks to local blogger, Alex Berger, back in 2012, I got the chance to checkout one of the best value for money burger joints in Copenhagen: Banana Joes. Alex likes his burgers to have high quality meat, a bit messy, and full of flavour which and that’s what Joes consistently delivers. It is a one man operation and food is delivered with a smile and a bit of banter. I went for the fish burger which uses a nice hunk of salmon that Alex says is cooked better than most of the “fine dining” restaurants around town. Plus it is fantastic value for money: I paid around 48 dkk for the burger and another 15 dkk for a fizzy drink whose name I cannot remember.

9. Ali Bakery

Address: Nørrebrogade 211

Another Nørrebro classic, especially if you love authentic Lebanese/Palestinian food & are visiting the urban park Superkilen, is Ali Bakery. There’s lot of outdoor tables, so if the weather is nice, this is the perfect place for a tasty brunch or breakfast. 

They do a delicious manakish here:  A flatbread topped with either a mix of cheese and nigella seeds or a Za’atar and olive oil blend.

Manakish starts from just 25 dkk. They also make really decent hummus here ( 45 dkk ) and foul, cooked fava beans with lemon juice, crushed garlic and cumin ( 45 dkk) Pair the dishes with their freshly squeezed apple juice ( 35 dkk )

10. Zaggis Cafe

Address: Frederiksborggade 43, 1371 København, Denmark

Located right next to the Dronning Louises Bro bridge, Zaggis Cafe  remains probably value for money and in terms of quality, one of the best value deals in Copenhagen- everything on the menu is 20 dkk!

The coffee is fabulous, plus their toasted sandwiches and panini’s are delicious. Highly recommend.

11 Next House Copenhagen Pizza buffet

Address: Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark

If you love good, stone baked pizza , then the all you can eat pizza buffet at Next House Copenhagen hostel is fab. The dough is made from a 120-year-old sourdough or “lievito madre”, as it is called in Italian and it tastes fab. The buffet is served from Sunday to Wednesday from 4-10pm and Thursday to Saturday, 4- 11pm, all for the affordable price of 129 dkk.

12 Green Mango

Address:  Torvegade 16, 1400 København, Denmark

I did not have the chance to eat at Scurry Hub ( you can have a Thai Green curry for just 65 dkk- fabulous deal! ) but I did have eat a pretty decent Thai Red Curry at Green Mango.

The portion size is generous and the staff are friendly. The curries start from 89 dkk for a veggie curry and 99 dkk if you want Chicken.

13. 7-Eleven

Multiple locations in Copenhagen.

A cheap eats guide to any city in Denmark or Scandinavia would not be complete without a reference to 7-Eleven. In terms of convenience and price, it is fantastic with several locations throughout Copenhagen including the main train station, airport and kiosks in all the metro stations. To give you an idea, a croissant or sweet pastry costs 22 dkk, the classic danish hotdog is 32 dkk, a pasta salad or normal salad costs 35 kr or you can have the meal deal of a sandwich and drink for 72.50 dkk. Their pastries are really nice and coffee is decent. 

14. Hotdog stands in Copenhagen

No trip to Copenhagen is complete without savouring one of their famous hotdogs. You will find several hot-dog stands dotted throughout the city and you will always be greeted with a polite smile and some banter, whichever one you pick. There is a few variations to choose from:  my favourite is the classic sausage stuffed into a piece of bread topped with mayonnaise, mustard, remoulade and toppings like fried onions, pickled cucumber. The ones to definitely checkout and come recommended are John’s Hotdog Deli and the Den Økologiske Pølsemand (The organic sausage man)

Update: ( October 2023) I had the chance to finally try ‘The organic sausage man’ aka Den Økologiske Pølsemand which is right by the Round Tower in the city centre. I tried the standard ‘Roasted Hotdog’ ( 42 dkk ) -organic pork sausage in a wholegrain bun. What elevates this offering are their delicious sauces- pickled mayonnaise, honey mustard and ketchup which is then topped off with raw and fried onions plus sliced pickles. It is delicious and definitely worth trying. I have heard great things about the vegan version and next time in Copenhagen, I will try that.

I also like popping into the Restaurant Fodkold on Radhuspladsen ( on my way to see Liverpool play at the Old Irish Pub ) Many locals would say they are better hotdog stands but I really enjoyed my hotdog here and with prices of just 35 dkk, I could not argue. ( You can also grab a small can of Carlsberg for 20 dkk )

15. Too Good to Go

To Good to Go is a lifesaver when I am travelling in expensive cities like Copenhagen. I didn’t try in CPH but used it extensively in Vienna and Berlin and scored some incredible deals on hot, cooked food from local restaurants. If you don’t know how it works, basically it is a mobile application that will connect you to restaurants and stores within your radius that have surplus unsold food.

Example of a deal- for example, today, searching in CPH, you can pick up a bag of food from the RizRaz buffet for just 29 dkk! Brilliant deal.

16. Netto supermarkets ( throughout the city )

Another great place to eat out on a budget in Copenhagen are Netto supermarkets which you can find throughout the city. The selection varies, but Netto focuses on affordable, no-frills groceries, from fresh fruits to a range of pretty decent microwaveable meals for 30.99 DKK  ( €4 ) like the Mac and Cheese or Chilli Con Carne. ( Bought this from the Netto supermarket right behind the Next House Copenhagen hostel on my last trip in September )

If you are looking for a light snack, then you can try their bowls of couscous with hummus for 9.95 DKK ( €1.30 ).

The Netto supermarkets also have a range of snacks like Frikadelle ( 1 piece- 22 DKK €3) and also small focacacia pizzas for 30 DKK ( 2 for 45 DKK)

Best affordable restaurants in Copenhagen

17. Diamond Dogs

Address: Blågårdsgade 27, 2200 København, Denmark

You can eat New York style pizza in hipster Nørrebro hood at Diamond Dogs  They sell pizza by the slice and the cheapest is the Cheese ( Three cheeses and basil ) for 60DKK ( €8) and you can get appetizers like a plate of Mortadella for 65 DKK or the epic sounding Bourbon Caramel Sundae for 65 DKK.

18. BBQ Heaven: Warpigs

Address: 1711, Flæsketorvet 25, 1711 København V, Denmark

I am not a meat lover nor the biggest fan of craft beers plus it is not cheap cheap but nevertheless, I really liked Warpigs. It has a very relaxed, informal ambience with long tables and benches. You order your food at the counter, pay and wait for your food to be made. They have plenty of beers to choose from: collaborations with the best small breweries in America plus you have the local Mikkeller beer. If you don’t like craft beer, there have craft cocktails on tap, created by the award winning bartender, Morten Bruun.

There’s a lot of tasty BBQ meat to choose from: a quarter, a half, or a full pound plus a nice array of sides like mac ’n’ cheese, coleslaw and burnt end baked beans. The inspiration behind the menu is masterchef Andrew Hrozamwho has done everything from catering Hell´s kitchen to feeding Slipknot and Van Halen.

I loved their homemade sauces : my top picks were the Carolina Gold with sweet mustard and the ‘KC’, a sweet bbq sauce with layers of spices like cloves and allspice.

Prices are ok: for a tray of three quarter-pound meats and two sides, I paid 230kr. (€30)

19. Hanzo 

Address: Værnedamsvej 14, 1619 København, Denmark

If you’re looking for a more premium dining experience without the price tag, then I definitely recommend a visit to the Hanzo restaurant which is part of the Madklubben chain of restaurants. The culinary focus is on Japan, Thailand, China and Vietnam, but sometimes the chefs borrow a little inspiration from Laos and Cambodia as well. 

I definitely recommend the Hanzo experience where you are served 10 courses picked by the kitchen, all small dishes from the menu and some “surprises”. It is expensive but in terms of experience, ambience, good value by Copenhagen standards at 395 kr.

It is a great way to taste everything on the menu.

If you are not too hungry , they have a snack menu where they serve 3 items for a more affordable 100 DKK- perfect with drinks.

My favourites from the menu was the delicious Harikiri soup- an intriguing combo of apples, ginger, peanuts , peppers and chili. Then you have chicken skewers dressed in a red curry ginger and sesame sauce. My favourite was the Hanza Taco: a combo of shredded duck confit, crispy strips of red cabbage, pickled carrots and Chinese radish, fresh coriander and the classic, salty and sweet Hoisin-dressing, served in crispy, fried gyoza skins,

Cocktails are fab here as is the wine list and staff were lovely and took great care in explaining the menu to me.

If asian good is not your thing, you can pop next door to the sister restaurant, Alabama Social that specialises in Cajun Cuisine. They do a delicious Gumbo there- chicken, merguez sausage, pork & smoked shrimp served with corn bread. Delicious soul food.

If this doesn’t get your tastebuds racing you have a 3rd sister restaurant on the street called Gran Torino which specialises in Italian food. 

All three restaurants are fantastic and offer a great culinary experience.

We came to Thessaloniki to eat and work. Plus to enjoy the warmth. It was late October and still a perfect 24c. Over little under a month, we enjoyed some of the best food we have ever tasted. What makes Thessalonki, the food capital of Greece? The city’s rich culinary traditions have been built on the wave of immigrants that have made the city home over the centuries.You can find traditional Greek dishes like moussaka and souvlaki, as well as unique local specialties. One iconic dish is bougatsa, a flaky pastry filled with sweet cream or savory cheese. Another must-try is the koulouri, a circular bread topped with sesame seeds that is a popular street food snack.Seafood is also a big part of the cuisine in Thessaloniki, with fresh fish and seafood dishes being a staple in many restaurants along the waterfront. Where to eat in Thessaloniki and what food should you eat in Thessaloniki? To really feel the pulse of the city, head to one of the city’s many mezedopolia ( small plates restaurants where you gorge on a variety of local dishes, washed down with ridiculously affordable ouzo, wine, retsina or tsipouro). I’ve shared below the best restaurants in Thessaloniki that are good quality and budget friendly. Let me know if I should add anymore names to this list.

1. Laikon

Situated next the nightlife hotspot of Ladaika , you will find Laikon. I can’t vouch for this being the best gyros in Thessaloniki but I’m sure it is up there with the best in the city- loved the combination of crispy pancetta with mustard, spicy cheese spread-tirokafteri and their hand cut fries, bundled into a fluffy toasted pita.

Cost: €3.20

Address: Politechniou 24, Thessaloniki 546 25, Greece

2. Kafeneio Odysseia

Run by the affable Christos and Rita, Kafeneio Odysseia for me sums of the magic of Thessaloniki’s food scene. There is no menu here. You are served whatever is fresh from the oven. It feels like eating at someone’s home rather than a restaurant. Everything we tasted from their amazing crunchy salad to the broad beans in tomato sauce baked in the oven to Dolmadakia (vine leaves stuffed with rice) -each dish tasted heavenly and was beautifully presented.

Cost: The prices are super cheap- we ordered 4 dishes and it came to €20. Half a litre of the house white wine was €5.

Address: Kastritsiou 11, Thessaloniki 546 23, Greece

3. Argofageio

This was another highlight of Thessaloniki, It is a small intimate restaurant with 6 tables and the quality of food here is amazing for what you pay. The handwritten menu changes daily and prepared with whatever is fresh from the market.Everything we tasted here, from stuffed mushrooms to seafood rice with mussels was amazing. Two glasses of white wine: €2.50.

Address: Apellou 6, Thessaloniki 546 22, Greece

4. Το Δίχτυ

Good seafood, lovely atmosphere, nice music and really good prices- safe bet for decent seafood in Thessaloniki

Address: Δραγουμη και, Dimitsa 18, Thessaloniki 546 23, Greece

5. Salento Wood Fired Street Food

This restaurant besides serving great wood fired oven pizzas specialises in Puccia sandwich, a traditional bread from Salento, an area of Puglia. It’s a street food classic made with pizza dough baked in a wood-fired oven. Similar to a pita (but not quite as thick and as chewy) you can choose from a variety of fillings- mushrooms, pulled pork, salsiccia, pesto, prosciutto crudo- you are spoilt for choice.

Cost: Prices start from just €4.50

Address: El. Venizelou 76, Thessaloniki 546 31, Greece

6. Μπακίρι Καφενές

I would recommend this old fashioned coffee house /meze ‘small plates’ restaurant near to Zeus is Loose Hostel on the strength of the staff, price and also the food.

Cost: We ordered a greek salad which was fantastic, fried fish plus some coffees for under €8.

Address: Chalkeon 23, Thessaloniki 546 31, Greece

7. Οινοποτείο καπηλειό

This meze small plates restaurant in the Kapani market is a gem with variety of traditional greek dishes. Pick of all the dishes was the smoked aubergine with feta.

Cost: Meze starts from just €4 and half a litre of wine from €5. Incredible value and wonderful service.

Address: Spandoni 26, Thessaloniki 546 24, Greece

8. Bougatsa Bantis

If there was dish that represented Thessaloniki and its history, it would be Bougasta, a phyllo pastry pie that is enjoyed for breakfast in northern Greece. It is close cousin of Turkish börek which you also find in the Balkans.

The best place to try in Thessaloniki is Bougasta Bantis, run by Philippos Bantis and his family. Philippos is the 3rd generation of the family making Bougasta, a tradition carried on from his grandfather who came to Thessaloniki with the wave of Greek refugees who had to leave Cappadocia back in the early 1920’s. The Greeks from Asia Minor brought their rich food culture and century old baking traditions. So when you try the Bougasta here, you are tasting a unique slice of history and heritage. Founded in 1969 by Phillippos’s father, you can try cheese, spinach or my favourite-semolina custard and cinnamon.

Address: Panagias Faneromenis 33, Thessaloniki 546 32, Greece

9. Εδεσσαϊκό

Traditional Greek cuisine, huge portion sizes at an incredible price- this was one of the best value restaurants in Thessaloniki.

Address: Ag. Dimitriou 140

Further reading

40 pictures that will make you want to visit Athens

First time I ate in Seville

I came to Seville at the end of a hectic 6 weeks of interrailing back in 2012. It was July and already the temperatures were in the high 30’s. The intense heat meant I could barely move around the city during the day. While backpackers were getting wasted at the rooftop pool of the hostel, I was hiding away in my room in the cool comfort of my air conditioned private room. I was wiped out emotionally and physically. Too many nights of drinking and the constant stress of moving every 2-3 days meant I couldn’t look at another drink or speak to anyone. I barely saw any of the sights in Seville over these 3 days because of the heat and exhaustion. The only time I emerged was afternoon and late in the evening to look for something to eat. Even though I was burnout and pretty happy to have not moved from my room, my first encounter going to a tapas bar in Seville was like a godly revelation. I had already been to Barcelona and Valencia before where I ate at some wonderful places but the tapas bars of Seville had a different air or vibe to them. I remember walking in and seeing this amazing array of colourful dishes all laid out on the broad counter of this bar and people just pointing to what they wanted and eating it. It felt like eating at your grandmother’s-everything I chose and ate was delicious. There was no time to pause in-between dishes.  The small plates of food came thick and fast and I just kept on devouring everything that was suggested to me. I was under some magical trance and it was only when I stepped into the harsh daylight that the spell was finally broken and I realised what I had experienced. I think then it clicked for me, how important food is when it comes to travel. In a world of constant distraction, the simple ritual of eating, slows time down and gives us a moment to reflect about ourselves and the world around us.

It was that trip that made me realise that less is more when it comes to travel and gave me that desire to slow down. I then promised myself one day to come back to Seville and focus on only one thing- eat. That promise took me 7 years to fulfil but I did come back again for a whole week which flew by and then I came the following year for 2 weeks and this still, wasn’t long enough. Given that there are close to 3000 tapas bars in Seville, it might take us both a lifetime to discover all the magic this city has to offer. However, since you probably don’t have the luxury of a lifetime, in order to narrow the field of choice a little and make it easier for you, I thought I would pass onto you some of my favourite places which you can discover in the form of a free self guided walking tour. You can easily eat out and see all the places below in a weekend but it depends on how much time you are willing to dedicate – it goes without saying, the slower, the better you will enjoy the food, it will taste better and you will also digest this city far better.

A free self guided walking tour of Seville for foodies

El Arenal

We start our self guided tour in the El Arenal neighbourhood which is one of Sevilla’s liveliest neighbourhoods in Seville, sitting in a triangle formed by Paseo de Colón on one side, and Calle Adriano and Calle Dos de Mayo on the other. The prosperity of El Arenal dates back to the 16th century when Seville was a thriving trading hub and boats, loaded with gold and silver would arrive here from the Indies to be repaired. The narrow streets here, that were filled with merchants, dockers, sailors and chief mates are now packed with century old “abacerías” (grocery stores) and some of the city’s best bodegas and tapas bars.

First port of call is the Mercardo del Arenal. Created in 1947 the mercado, formerly the site for a convent and later a prison, is now where locals come to buy fresh fruits and vegetables.

Picnic Panes Artesanos

Right next to the Mercardo is Picnic Panes Artesanos. If you are looking for artisan bread, this is the place to come to plus they bake delicious cakes ranging from Dulce de Leche alfajores, cinnamon rolls, apple cakes, cookies & magdalenas

Casa Matias

Worth bookmarking and popping your head in to visit later, this historic tavern is one of my favourite places for a cold, cheap beer – plus from Tuesday to Sunday, they perform flamenco shows here.

Casa Morales

Back in the day when sailors and merchants were flocking the streets of El Arenal it was common for the old abacerías– grocery stores to double up as bars. Few of those remain and one of the best existing examples is the historic Casa Morales which since 1850 has been quenching the thirst of locals with their chilled local sherry and beers, serving a delicious range of tapas dishes ranging from albondigas (meatballs) to sets (mushrooms), montaditos (small sandwiches) and the classic anchovies on toast with cheese.

Keep your eye out for the hidden but beautiful Plaza del Cabildo in the heart of the city: Seville is filled with beautiful corners like this.

Orange Wine at Taberna Perejil

Continuing the sweet theme, pop into Taberna Perejil where since 1904, they have been serving Vino de Naranja, famous local orange wine which comes from Moguer (a little town from Huelva). It is a sweet wine, perfect for an aperitif or can be enjoyed as a dessert wine. At €1.20, you can easily quaff a few of these.

Taste Solomillo al Whisky Bodega Santa Cruz

Bodega Santa Cruz is another classic tapas bar that I love coming back to- first reason is that the prices of the tapas here is very reasonable, starting around the €2 mark. Secondly, the food is fantastic. Try their delicious meatballs albondigas and the local classic Solomillo al Whisky (pork tenderloin in whisky sauce).

The latter dish is one of the most authentic tapas dishes you can try in the city and tasted damn good here.

Enjoy Carrillada at Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo

Another of the few remaining abaceria or bodegas in town, this tapas bar is a little bit off the beaten path but probably one of the best tapas restaurants in the city. The waitress and owner speak little English but are friendly and patient with my questions. In the end we decided to try Carrillada which is braised Iberian Pork Cheeks, slow cooked in the local fino aka sherry over a low heat for at least a few hours. The end result as you can imagine is this delicious, heavenly tender meat which is perfectly accompanied with roasted potatoes.

El Rinconcello-the birthplace of tapas

Close to the Iglesia de Santa Catalina and the Iglesia de San Pedro, where the painter Velazquez was baptized lies El Rinconcello, the oldest tapas bar in Seville and also Spain. It is classified as the the second oldest in Spain after the Madrid-based Botín. Dating back to 1670, the interiors here haven’t changed much in the last 300 years with traditional Andalusian tiles adorning the walls and the centrepiece, the famous carved wooden bar where the patrons are propped up. The bar is standing room only and there are no seats. There are no receipts here. The waiters write your bill in chalk on the wooden bar, which is then added up at the end of the session.

You can try the signature dish of Seville, espinacas con garbanzos. This dish sums up Seville’s rich history. The Moors were the first to bring spinach, chickpeas, and cumin to Spain and all three are the main stars of this dish alongside smoked paprika. My other favourite dish here is bacalau aka cod in a tomato garlic sauce-heavenly stuff!

The selection of wines here is fantastic, with a special focus on Andalusian wines.

Casa Vizcaíno

If you’re looking for an authentic, local bar then this is as good as it gets in Seville. The ice cold draft beer flows quickly here and at around €1.20 for a glass you will soon be spilling out onto the pavement with other locals and making new friends in no time. There’s also a wide range of sherries on offer plus the famous local orange wine. Drinks are served here with tasty olives and there are some special tapas dishes on the menu like Mojama , a Mediterranean delicacy salt-cured tuna, caviar and Bacalao Saladisimo – salted cod.

Try local craft ales like Zurda Golden Ale at La Jeronima

If you are still feeling thirsty, highly recommend a trip to La Jeronima where you are invited to ‘read our beers and drink our books.’ Part library stocking publications from local publishers and a menu featuring over 30 craft beers from across Andalusia-this is a real authentic slice of Seville. If it is a warm day and you are thirsty I highly recommend a bottle of the refreshing Zurda Golden Ale.

We finish off with some gelato. Freskura, near Alameda de Hercules could be in with a good shout for having the best ice cream in the city: try their lemon basil sorbet ( €2.50 ) ….or just a few hundred yards from the Mercado is Heladeria Artesana La Fiorentina, one of Seville’s best gelaterias where you find a range of exotic and exciting flavours, many of which are original and unique to Seville. Recommend trying the orange blossom or “crema de Sevilla” to get a real taste of Seville’s sweet side.

Explore city’s rich food scene with a local

If this post has whetted your appetite and you want to dig in further, then I highly recommend trying one of Devour Seville’s Food Tours. I’ve been on tours with their guides in Madrid and Barcelona- they are extremely passionate about their food, energetic and full of tips and ideas. Taking one of their tours is a great way to get a sense of history of the place and after the tours they always handout a sheet with tips of their favourite places to eat, drink and see. The emphasis in their tours is always supporting locals: no food chains, corporates are involved so by taking their tours, you are really putting money back into the local economy. I won’t give you the lowdown of where we visited but this food tour had it all: we ate a lot (come with an empty stomach) and the tour was filled with lots of nuggets of local history.

Disclaimer: This post was produced with the kind support of the Spanish Tourist Office UK as part of their #SlowTravelSpain campaign. However, all the views expressed here, good and bad, are entirely my own. Thank you.

Is Ostrava worth visiting?

If you like cities with fairytale castles and quaint medieval charm, cobbled streets overflowing with pastel perfect cafes and annoying tourists (I could easily be talking about Prague here) I can safely tell you now that Ostrava is not that city. It is quite the opposite of Prague. The city once described as the black heart of Czech Republic is now full of colour and culture thanks to a year long programme of festivals whose crowning glory is the fantastic Colours of Ostrava festival, arguably Czech Republic’s biggest and best music festival.

Where is Ostrava?

Tucked away in the north eastern corner of the country near the Polish border , on the border of Moravia and Silesia, Ostrava is well off the tourist path. Katowice ( 71 kms), Krakow ( 121 kms ), Olomouc ( 91 kms ) and Brno ( 138 kms) are the nearest cities.

What is Ostrava like?

Lets start with the architecture, which is an interesting juxtaposition of perspectives and influences that reveals the city’s complex identity. You will find the candy box art nouveau architecture that recalls the glorious era of Austro Hungarian empire to the less ornate but symmetry pleasing functionalist architecture (the district of Poruba) which contrasts intriguingly with the post industrial landscape of places like Dolní Vitkovice that makes you feel like an extra on Mad Max. What Ostrava lacks in eye candy, it makes up for in terms of its character, its people, who are honest and welcoming, a growing gastronomy scene plus there is a rich appetite for culture here. It is a city that is not perfect but perfect cities are boring right? Still got your interest? Here are some of my suggestions for cool things to do in Ostrava.

Cool things to do in Ostrava

1. New Town Hall

Talking about perspectives, a nice place to start your trip to Ostrava is one of the icons of the city, the New Town Hall. This modernist masterpiece (inspired partly by the Palazzo Vecchio from Florence) at 85 metres tall, is the tallest town hall in Czech Republic and offers a great view of the city skyline and sweeping views of the Ostrava basin, starting from the mountains of Beskydy to the south, the Jeseniky mountains to the west and the Upper Silesian plateau to the east.

Interesting facts about the town hall- the express lift, which rises to a height of over fifty metres above ground, was the fastest in Czechoslovakia at the time. Also don’t miss the chance to ride on the unique paternoster lift. You will find it in the right wing of the building.

Entry fee: 60 CZK for adults and 40 CZK for children (20 CZK for kids aged 4-6)

2. Mound Ema

If you are curious to see the city from another interesting angle, pay a visit to Ostrava’s Mound Ema, the city’s very own Mount Vesuvius. On the right side of the Ostravice river, is a mound built from 28 million tonnes of trash brought over from the local mines.

The temperature inside the slagheap reaches up to 1,500 °C! While walking on the mound, you will see gas vapours, accompanied by a typical smell.

Best time to visit mound Ema is just before sunset. You can best reach Ema on the yellow hiking trail, whether you start at the zoo or at Černá louka.

Tip: Ostrava Information Centre offer guided tours of mound Ema in English and other languages. To book, call 5 days in advance at +420 724 166 992 or via email at pruvodce@ostravainfo.cz.

Address: Slezská Ostrava, 710 00 Slezská Ostrava, Czechia

Culture hotspots of Ostrava

If you love culture, you will like Ostrava. It really has shaped the evolution of the city from a prosperous mining centre to a city where there’s something always happening thanks to a fantastic year long programme of festivals plus there’s a small but excellent concentration of art museums.

3. Dům umění v Ostravě Gallery of Fine Arts in Ostrava

A must visit is the Gallery of Fine Arts in Ostrava, the largest gallery in the Moravian-Silesian region. Housing an astonishing 23,000 works of art , it is widely recognized as one of the leading art galleries in the Czech Republic.

You will find here works by old masters such as Dürer, Cranach, Aachen and Hollar. The Viennese Art Nouveau is represented here (Klimt) as well as important Russian artists (Repin, Šiškin). The gallery also boasts works of Czech modern art.

The Gallery offers workshops where you can get hands-on artistic experience and indulge other creative activities under the guide of the gallery’s artist in residence. Advance booking is required and there is a nominal fee of 50 CZK.

Entry fee 100 CZK to all exhibitions (50 CZK reduced price)

The permanent exhibition and the library is free of charge to visit.

Address  Jurečkova 1750/9, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

4. Plato

Another important landmark of the local art scene is the contemporary art gallery, Plato. Situated in an ex garden and hobbyware store (soon to move to an ex slaughterhouse), visitors will be left wondering which of the pieces are the relics of the former store and what are the modern art pieces. There’s a library of modern art books and magazines to browse plus an excellent vegetarian cafe to grab a bite.

Address: Janáčkova 3139/22, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

5. Street art in Ostrava

Ostrava has a small but excellent number of public street art works that I would recommend you checkout during your visit.

The most famous piece here is the ‘The Madonna of Ostravica’ which is the largest street art piece in the country. Wedged between the Campus Palace and Imperial Hotel Ostrava, this mural was created by famous street artist Nils Westergard.

The other street art piece I would definitely see is the piece ‘Jump’ – a robotic, leaping horse by the polish artist Mariusz M-City Waras who is known for his striking black and white cityscapes.

The mural, painted on a facade in Nadrazni street, Ostrava is right in front the food truck park where Farmia Food Point is located.

6. Dolni Vitkovice

Amidst the swathes of impressive greenery and the distinctive brick & iron landscape of the Lower Vítkovice district, lies one of the greatest examples of 19th century industrial architecture, Dolni Vitkovice which in its heyday, was one of the most important steel complexes in the history of the country and from all over Europe. While Prague’s skyline offers the fairytale view of the Castle or the towers of the church of St. Mary of Týn, Ostrava provides you with a more brutalist mashup of pipes and steel of the old factories of Dolní Vítkovice. Once you step into the towering shadow of the 260-feet-high blast furnace, it really feels like you’ve stepped into some parallel dimension. An impressive maze of towering blast furnaces, coke ovens, pig-ironworks, smelters, compressors and gantries, after closing down in 1998, Dolni Vitkovice has become a National Monument with all the buildings converted into museums and art spaces.

Enjoy the coffee and the view of Ostrava from the top of the Bolt Tower (in honour of Jamaican athlete Usain Bolt, who visited Ostrava on multiple occasions) located on the former blast furnace, go have fun and learn something in the Small and Big Worlds of Science, visit a concert in the former gas reservoir-the Gong Hall or the Heligonka club, climb to the top of the climbing wall of the former mine or watch a movie in Cineport.

Address: Ruská 2993, 703 00 Ostrava-Vítkovice, Czechia

You can visit the Vitkovice area for free, but I would definitely recommend taking one of their guided tours ( 250 CZK adults, 190 CZK reduced) to access areas closed to independent visitors. These tours run daily at 10.00, 12.00, 14.00 and 16.00pm -definitely book in advance online ( https://www.dolnivitkovice.cz/en/dolni-vitkovice-en/ ) to guarantee a place. The tours last 100 minutes and will include a ride on an ore lift plus a look into the heart of a blast furnace.

7. Michal Mine

If you want to dig into the region’s mining history and follow exactly the same path as the miners did every day at work, then I would recommend a visit to the Michal Mine. Your guide, probably an ex-miner will take you down the route the miners took and share some insights into their daily lives. You can see unique chain dressing rooms, showers, marking room, registration room, lamp

room or cafeteria. The infirmary and the geologist’s office are also included in the tour. The whole mine has been preserved in such a way that it looks like the miners left the mine only a few hours ago. Other unique highlights of the museum include a fully functional steam engine from 1903.

Entry: For adults it is 140 CZK (110 CZK reduced)

Address: Československé armády 413, 715 00 Ostrava-Michálkovice, Czechia

8. Poruba

The unique highlight of visiting Ostrava was a visit to the Ostrava-Poruba city district, known for its 1950’s socialist realism architecture. I was curious to visit Poruba because it had been modelled along similar lines of nearby Nowa Huta in Krakow which I had visited several years ago. Poruba was purpose built to house the working class people and to form an “ideal” communist workers’ community, away from the thick smog and pollution of the mining areas near the centre of Ostrava. Poruba lacks the drab, grey, bitter realism of Nowa Huta and I’m pleased to report, feels far grander, inspired by the design of Soviet cities, but also retaining Antique, Renaissance and Classicist elements.

I love the layout, with its wide boulevards and emphasis on symmetry and decorativeness, unique clusters of buildings, parks and quadrangles – such a cool contrast to Ostrava which such a mishmash of various influences.

Best places to drink coffee in Ostrava

One of the other interesting finds from my trip to Ostrava was the burgeoning coffee scene in the city. While not quite a hotspot yet, a significant number of speciality coffee shops are starting to open in significant numbers.

9. PetPunk

Loved PetPunk. As the name suggests, there is a very friendly, alternative vibe here, probably created by the lovely owners, Petr Polak and Pawliczka Stojkojova plus the fantastic collection of ‘pet’ toys and animals that friends of the cafe have left there to add to the quirky vibe. Plus, they serve fantastic coffee, aided by skilled baristas and quality coffee roasted by Nordbeans roasters from Liberec. We should also not forget the excellent snacks/cakes made by Pawliczka. Highly recommended for coffee lovers.

Address: Nádražní 112/50, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

10.U Černého Stromu [By a Black Tree]

Located by the town hall this is another great cafe – expect friendly and helpful baristas (who speak good English), a calm atmosphere with a chill jazz soundtrack playing in the background and really good coffee which is supplied by Czech La Boheme Cafe coffee roasters. It is a great place to work, read, or just people-watch for a quiet hour or two.

Address: Prokešovo nám. 1883, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

11. CØKAFE Centrum

Another laptop friendly cafe (with a location in Dolni Vitkovice and Poruba too), this colourful cafe serves great coffee by happy, smiling baristas and they do really nice cakes and brunch too on the weekends.

Address: Nádražní 1266/26, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

12. Cafe Daniel

The prize for the quirkiest and cosiest cafe in Ostrava goes to Cafe Daniel. There’s a very distinctive vibe that feels homely and welcoming thanks to the lovely antiques and period furniture – it is a time capsule of what life might have been like in the roaring 20’s in Czech Republic – you decide. There’s a varied, eclectic menu full of coffee, cocktails, wine and cakes so whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it here. Perfect place to read a book and forget the world.

Address: Žerotínova 1230, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

Where to eat in Ostrava

13. Restaurace a pivnice U Rady

If you’re looking for friendly service, authentic Czech cuisine at good prices, then this is the place to come. They serve cold, frothy Pilsner Urquell on tap and they also have nice outdoor seating area – book ahead to get yourself a spot outside.

Address: Poštovní 1474/16, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

14. Hogo Fogo Bistro

If you’re looking for tasty international fare (we had their fantastic homemade daal with bread and they do great burgers), served in a beautiful outdoor terrace garden with delicious homemade lemonade or a cold unfiltered Bernard beer, then Hogo Fogo is the place. Lots of vegetarian options, which is perfect if you’re looking for an alternative to the traditional local fare. It is a tad pricey but the food and ambience makes it worthwhile.

Address: Sokolská tř. 871/6, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

15. La Petite Conversation

If you’re looking for a casual, bistro style dining experience then this cafe will not disappoint. Choose from bottled Belgian beer and local wines to homemade lemonades, fantastic burger and fries, a light range of meals, from sandwiches and salads to more continental classics (meatballs is a winner)- you’ll find something on the menu to your taste. Prices are slightly higher than average but for the ambience and friendly service, it is worth it.

Address: Tyršova 31, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

16. Farmia Food Point Ostrava

Healthy fast food using locally sourced ingredients from their farm, this food truck situated off the main drag is a cut above the local fare with an interesting range of international classics, from quesadillas to burger ( in picture) to fish and chips & tasty salads.

Address: Nádražní 43, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

Also recommended

Fancy Fries.

Burfi Vegetarian Restaurant

Where to drink in Ostrava

17. Hospoda U Jakuba

If you’re looking for a cosy bar with great service, good range of pilsner beers on draft and Czech style open faced sandwiches Obložené Chlebíčky that are perfect for snacking with beer, then definitely pop into Hospoda U Jakuba.

Jiráskovo nám. 159/10, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czech Republic.

18. Radegastnova na Namesti

Local beer Radegast on draft, classic pub grub style dining fare and friendly service in the heart of the picturesque Masarykovo Namesti.

Address: 13 24, Masarykovo nám., 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

19. Wine Cellar Near the Bridge

If you are a wine lover and want an education in Czech wines, this is the bar to come to. Prices are a steal with 0.1l glass of local wine starting at 18 CZK which is less than a Euro. It can be quite busy in the evenings so prepared for a wee wait when you come here.

Address: 28. října 4, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

20. Cafe Club Dock

If it is a sunny day or evening in Ostrava, this is the bar to come to. Grab a cold draft beer along with one of their excellent sandwiches/ bagels and grab one of the benches outside and watch the coming and goings of locals by the river. This is also a great place for live music so enquire inside for their upcoming gigs.

Address: Havlíčkovo nábř. 28, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

21. BarBar Music Club

If you’re looking for live music, this is the place to come to. Nice service and there is cold Pilsner Urquell on draft.

Address: Škroupova 12, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

22. Avoid… Stodolni

The much hyped Stodolni Street, packed with bars and clubs was a huge disappointment. It attracts a certain kind of trashy tourist and after 9pm, this place was utter bedlam. You won’t spot any locals here. Ostrava has plenty of good bars outside of Stodolni so my advice is to stay away.

I would make exception for the excellent Cafe de La Ostrava which is one of the few bars in town that plays really good electronic music and the drinks prices are reasonable.

Where to go shopping in Ostrava

23. TY Identity

Looking for a gift that is unique and local?

Local designers and artists rent shelves from the store so if you want to champion local, handmade art, TY Identity is the place to shop and support. You can find a wide variety of interesting and original things – from natural cosmetics, to jewellery, ceramics, decorations, furniture and much more…

Address: Poštovní 39, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

24. CVRK

Similar to TY Identity, CVRK provides a platform for 200 Czech designers so this too is a great place if you want to buy a gift or souvenir that is unique and local.

Address: 2, Vojanova 204, 702 00 Moravská Ostrava a Přívoz, Czechia

Where to stay in Ostrava

25. Hotel City City

We stayed in the Hotel City City, a modern design hotel with spacious, minimalist rooms that come equipped with a kitchenette. Staff are helpful and friendly. A generous buffet breakfast is served for guests at the excellent Loft restaurant onsite which specialises in modern Czech bistro style dining. 

Getting around Ostrava

Ostrava has an excellent network of buses and trams that operate on a regular basis and are quite inexpensive. You can buy a single ticket with your bank card (VISA, MasterCard) directly in the vehicle. This ticket costs 24 CZK (0,90€) and it is valid for 45 minutes. If you get off in under 10 minutes of ride, tap your card when exiting the vehicle to pay only 16 CZK. When changing for another tram/bus, tap your card again when entering the vehicle. The system will calculate the best price for you.

Disclaimer

We were kindly hosted and invited to Ostrava by Czech Tourism thanks to Sabrina’s winning the Tourfilm 2022 competition for her video- ‘South Moravia with Locals’.

All the views, good and bad expressed here are entirely my own.