Where Switzerland, France and Germany meet, Basel with a population of under 200000, packs a punch with its perfect blend of old and new. Beneath the picture-postcard cobblestone streets and classic architecture there is a quirky cool edge, which is evident from quirky public sculpture pieces, to its avant garde art galleries and its breathtaking modern architectural buildings – there are stories in every corner of this city. There is a ton of culture, from giants of the art scene like Fondation Beyeler to a rich hive of independent art galleries, this city is very rich in terms of the arts.Then there is the food scene, the crossroad of Swiss, French and German influences that delivers serious flavour, often with a side of rebellion. Basel has something for everyone, whatever your passion and interests are. Here is my guide to Basel on a budget. PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Lucerne on a budget and  Zurich on a budget.Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Dorms, Hyve Basel

Where to stay: Hyve Basel

Located just a short walk from the main train Station, Hyve Basel offers a range of accommodation options that cater to all kinds of travellers and budgets. If you are looking for your own space, they have a bunch of full equipped apartments that come with their own private balcony. The wood panelled private doubles and family ensuites are beautifully designed with large windows that let in a lot of a light. The most popular section of the Hotel are their hostel style Japanese pod dorms. These are some of the best designed pod dorms I have seen in any hostel in Europe. The mattress is super comfy, there is a plug point for charging gadgets, plus a huge bedside mirror that makes the pod feel less claustrophobic. Plus, there is an air vent so that there is a good circulation of air.

The shared bathrooms and showers worked really well and are cleaned regularly. A big highlight of Hyve Basel is the common room shared lounge which is popular not only with guests but locals from Basel living in the area. The common room by day is a great space to work from plus there is excellent coffee. In the evenings, it gets a bit more of a living room vibe with people eating, reading, working or maybe gathering around the fire on the beautiful outdoor terrace. There is a regular programme of events, from live comedy to board game evenings to cooked meals. The hostel also has an excellent self-catering kitchen which is a big plus for visiting Basel. There is a local convenience store just around the corner plus a Coop Supermarket further up the road, beside the train Station. Other notable facilities include a washing machine and dryer for the affordable price of 5CHF and also a pool table area. Last but not least, the hosts and staff here are super helpful. Esra, Suzanne, Alex, Sarah- everyone I met were super helpful and gave me great tips.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at Hyve Basel and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and  Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden

Street-art -The best spots in Basel

Basel has a diverse and interesting street art scene and everywhere you walk in the city, you will find an eclectic mix of murals, graffiti and installations, especially on the outskirts of the city. You will find striking graffiti and murals along the tracks between the Swiss SBB railway station and Schwarzwaldbrücke bridge, as well as around Schänzli near St. Jakob-Park and the Sommercasino. The harbour also features impressive street art. Additionally, the Bell site showcases Basel’s largest installation, a 1,700 m² wall created by over 30 artists during the Change of Colours event in August 2020.

Here are my favourite spots:

1.Gerbergässlein

4001 Basel

Commissioned by the rock bar L’Unique across the alley, this is probably Basel’s most famous street artwork – it is a massive artwork featuring an array of world famous musicians, from the Beatles to Jimi Hendrix to Ozzy.

2. Malaga loves Basel – Kohlenberg

Kohlenberg 13, Basel

Dest Jones from Basel and urban artist Lalone from Malaga both created this mural as a homage to Pablo Picasso and his influence on the cities of Basel and Malaga.

3. Sommercasino

Münchensteinerstrasse 1,

4052 Basel

A former society house dating from the 19th century, the Sommercasino besides being a popular hotspot for concerts and parties, is also a popular hangout spot for local graffiti artists and you will find some impressive artworks and motifs on the entire facade.

4.Space Invaders

Clarastrasse,

4005 Basel

Across Basel you will find 20 Space Invaders by Paris based Invader, a leading light of the urban art world. Of the 20 pieces, the most famous one is in Kleinbasel, around the Corner from the Messe Basel. Created in 2019, “The Golden Pot of the Art World”, is one of the biggest in the world.

5. Port

Uferstrasse, 4057 Basel

Along the remote edges of Klybeck right upto the “border triangle” aka Dreiländereck where the three countries meet, you will find a great mix of murals and graffiti art adorning everything from the walls of industrial buildings to freight Wagons and also in the culture space, Holzpark Klybeck.

3 great museums you can visit for free in Basel

1.Kunstmuseum Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore, open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

The collection can be visited for free on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5 to 6 p.m., Wednesdays and Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m., and the first Sunday of each month.

2.Museum Tinguely

A visit to Museum Tinguely is a must for an insight into the life and genius of Jean Tinguely, one of Basels most celebrated citizens for his pioneering work in the field of kinetic works.

Spanning his career which last more than 4 decades, the museum is the largest collection of his works, from early, filigree reliefs to his monumental machine sculptures from the 1980s.

Inspired by Tinguely, Museum Tinguely is very playful and interactive, hosting diverse events and exhibitions that will bring out your inner artist.

The museum is free to visit late on Thursdays between 6 – 9 pm.

3.Hoosesaggmuseum

In the heart of the charming and steep Imbergässlein, once the street of Basel’s spice merchants, lies the fascinating Hoosesaggmuseum (Pants Pocket Museum). There’s no entry fee, but also no entrance possible to this museum- the entire collection is displayed within a two-foot-by-two-foot window in the door of Dagmar and Matthias Vergeat’s 600-year-old home, tucked away in this narrow pedestrian alley in Basel’s Old Town.

This unique museum showcases miniature collections small enough to fit in your pocket. Anyone with a private collection of tiny objects of more than 30 items can display them here for a limited time, adding a personal and whimsical touch to the exhibits.

4. Great places to eat in Basel

1.Sapori Del Sud

Right next to the Spalentor lies a slice of Italian and Sicilian heaven – Sapori Del Sud is a takeaway run by the affable Antonio Russo and his mother, Grazia who specialise in preparing paninos and their signature pastrami sandwiches, which in a bite takes me back to New York. The prices are very reasonable – 11 CHF for a Jumbo Sandwich, which is enough to feed two people.

2. Za Zaa

A stylish Syrian-Lebanese eatery in the heart of Basel, Za Zaa  offers a nice range of dishes, from traditional salads, excellent hummus, both cold and warm mezze and great falafel.

3. Lily Maxim

Serving a mix of classic Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes, if you are looking for an  unpretentious dining experience with fast, good service, then you will like Lily Maxim. The food is adapted to local tastes but there is a good range of condiments to customise the dish to your style.

4. Klara

Another excellent option for dining is Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. Locals rave about the hummus and pita from Yoya Pitabar and the pasta and pinsa from Lamia Pastaria. Our pick of the bunch was the Vietnamese Diner,

Nón Lá Vietnamese Corner. Sabrina loved the Bun Bo Nam Bo and I tried the Banh Mi with their special lemongrass chicken and it was fab.

5. Markthalle

Located near the train station in a beautiful listed building that originally served as the local market lies the Markthalle. Since 2014 it has been repurposed into an international food Court featuring dishes from all around the world at very reasonable prices. There is a great variety of choice here,  from delicious empanadas to ceviche to kebabs and also delicious curries. When we visited, late on the weekend, we also found an excellent local preloved clothes market packed with locals.

6. Coffee at Café Unternehmen

This architectural gem dating back to 1912 was formerly the Swiss Volksbank and is Basels unofficial living room where you will find people hunched over their laptops working away, tired shoppers lounging on the stylish Eames chairs sipping on coffee or locals enjoying their excellent terrace, scoffing one of their delicious range of cakes and pastries.

Top tip: Dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall, the Marktplatz is a definitely worth wandering, especially during the week when there’s a busy weekly market on where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers.

7. Jakob’s Basler Leckerly

No trip to Basel is complete without sampling the famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of the popular German Xmas treat, Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies. The place to try the Basler Leckerli is Jakob’s Basler Leckerly, the oldest biscuit manufacturer in Switzerland, dating back to 1753.

5. Swimming, Basel style, down the Rhine river

Wickelfisch and also Buvette culture

In late spring and summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax and cool down, is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel, we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their “Wickelfisch”, a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. There are plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river – this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Our tip is Flora, which has a great selection of affordable wines and beers on tap.

Note: You can hire a Wickelfisch from the Basel Tourism Information Point for 10 CHF. Also worth remembering, sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip – Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

6. Hop on a Rhine River Ferry for just 2 CHF!

My kind of Rhine Cruise – for the princely sum of 2 Swiss francs you can cross the river in Basel: Choose from the four Rhine river ferries “Wild Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” and “Ueli”, which all link the Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. Attached to a long wire cable, the boats are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself.

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine: after roaming the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses, we hopped on the Wilde Maa ferry from St Alban in Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.

7. Exploring Klybeck

If you are looking for something bit more alternative, then I definitely recommend a visit to the former industrial district of Klybeck on the banks of the Rhine, which has been a popular magnet for artists and culture lovers since it was formed back in 2014. Holzpark Klybeck which reminds me a lot of Holzmarkt25 in Berlin has lots of cool street art pieces and is packed with pop-up bars and restaurants made from shipping containers and wooden pallets. I recommend having a beer or cocktail at the friendly Patschifig. Also, recommend the rustic Landstelle, by the Rhine river next to Holzpark for a refreshing beer or cocktail after a dip in the river from the nearby jetty.

8.  Basel for free- take a self guided walking tour

If you are short on time and prefer the independence of exploring the city on foot at your own pace, then the free Basel City App is the one you should download. There is a wealth of history and stories in every corner of Basel’s Old Town and this app, gives you the lowdown of all the stories and places you can discover. You have 5 different walking tours to choose from and they all start and finish on the Marktplatz.

9. Basel Nightlife

Basel’s nightlife punches above its weight for a city of its size. There’s something for everyone. You will find a nice mix of easygoing pubs and also cozy, dimly lit bars spread through the the  ever-popular Steinenvorstadt to the lively Rheingasse to the hip Klybeck district. If you are looking for a nice after work drink by the Rhine river, you cannot go wrong with Landstelle.

Then there are underground clubs like Nordstern, pulsing with electronic beats until the early hours.

Getting around Basel

Getting around Basel is a dream, thanks to its efficient and well-connected transport system. The city’s backbone is its extensive tram and bus network, run by BVB. Trams crisscross the city, while buses fill in the gaps.

Visitors staying at Hyve Basel get a fantastic perk – the Basel Card for free! This magic card allows you free use of public transport and discounts on attractions. If you don’t have the Basel Card, you can buy tickets from machines at stops or via the BVB app.

Basel’s compact size makes it perfect to explore by foot or bike. As mentioned earlier, for a one of a kind experience, hop on one of the Rhine River ferries. These cable-guided boats offer a wonderful way to cross the river.

Plus, if you are coming from the airport, Bus 50 will get you into the city centre in about 20 minutes. This bus is included in your free Basel Card. (remember to download it onto your phone). And if you are arriving by train, the Basel SBB station is right in the heart of the city and you can easily walk to Hyve Basel.

PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Zurich on a budget. Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Where to stay in Lucerne on a budget

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne is a fantastic option to have in terms of price, location and the facilities. Nestled in the heart of the city, steps from the iconic Chapel Bridge, Lion Monument, the Old Town plus with a Coop supermarket next door, the location is perfect. 

The innovative pod-style beds, inspired by Japanese capsule hotels but featuring Swiss design, are arranged in double-decker configuration. For additional privacy, you can opt for a lower pod by paying a small premium.

Accessibility is prioritized with a specialized wheelchair-accessible pod. The hostel offers gender-segregated shower and restroom facilities, plus a fully accessible bathroom for guests with disabilities.

Security is managed through smart technology – each pod’s sliding door locks via a smartphone app using Bluetooth, or alternatively through a 4-digit PIN provided at check-in. This single system grants access to both your room and individual pod.

Inside each pod, you’ll find thoughtful amenities: a plush mattress, adjustable lighting, mirror, and garment hooks. A whisper-quiet ventilation system ensures comfort, while the interior decor features cloud murals overhead and Swiss Alpine imagery, adding a local touch to your stay. Luggage and footwear can be stored beneath the bottom pods, with cable locks available for security. A separate luggage storage room provides an additional storage option.

Then there is the stunning shared space, a glass-walled lounge which shapeshifts from peaceful morning coffee spot to perfect coworking spot to evening entertainment hub.

Whether you’re looking to get some work done, read a book from their wonderful library of books on their comfy leather sofa, join the weekly movie nights, catch a comedy show, or bond with fellow guests over board games, there’s always something for guests here.

There is an onsite bar where you can enjoy baked goods, pizza, flammkuchen at an affordable price plus a selection of wines, beers and soft drinks if you are thirsty. At under 80 CHF a night, Chapter Lucerne proves that thoughtful design, comfort, and community does not need to come with a luxury price tag.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne and at any of their other locations , which currently include Zurich and Basel

Free things to do in Lucerne

1.Visit the Musegg Wall

An ancient fortification that protected the city in medieval times, serves as a historic landmark, a home to Lucerne’s wildlife and an excellent place to take in the views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town and stretching over an incredible 800 metres, navigating the Musegg Wall and its nine towers is a wonderful way to drink in Lucerne’s history. The 31 metre high, Zyt tower houses a clock face on its exterior that can be viewed from as far away as the Lake. Jackdaws, common lizards and insects call this well preserved wall, their home, and is undoubtedly one of Lucerne’s best preserved historical. Keep in mind that during the winter months (November-March), the Wall and Towers remains closed for visitors. 

2. Visit the Lion Monument

The ‘Lion of Lucerne’ designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, is a moving tribute to those Swiss Guards who perished in battle, during the French Revolution. The rock relief carved into the cliff face is a spectacular 10 metres long and 6 metres high but rather than the size of the sculpture, or the grandeur of the carving, it is the expression of mortal pain on the lion’s face that is the most arresting. Situated in a city park in the centre of town , the stunning grotto with the poignant sandstone carving allows visitors to step back in time and pay homage to the lives of six hundred brave souls.

3. The wooden bridges of Lucern-Chapel Bridge and Chaff Bridge

Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge is Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Made from wood, the footbridge traverses the River Reuss diagonally, and its gorgeous interior paintings depict several scenes from Lucerne’s history. The beautiful bridge suffered fire damage in 1993 and several of the paintings were destroyed at the time but have now been lovingly restored. The bridge stands as a symbol for the city and its central Water Tower and the bridge with masses of colourful hanging flowers – are emblematic of the city’s beauty. 

The smaller, less well-known Chaff Bridge is not to be ignored. This bridge also contains a number of panelled paintings although the theme of some of these paintings is death and the ever changing cycle of life. Built later than Chapel Bridge, not only is Chaff Bridge shorter, the purpose of its building was to connect the flour mills to the Old Town. Bread was made in bakeries in the New Town, to lessen the chance of a fire breaking out in the Old town, and the Chaff Bridge was an important means of connecting the people of Old Town with an important source of sustenance.

4. Swim in the Lake at Ufschötti

If you are a sun worshipper and crave the feel of a sandy beach between your toes, then look no further – a dip in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer months at the swathe of green space known as as the Ufschötti. The park is south of Lucerne’s main train station and consists of a strip of sand 200 metres long, adjacent to the Lake. Have a picnic in the green space behind the beach, shaded by trees or enjoy a barbecue. During the summer months, a beach bar serves hot and cold drinks. Other amenities include toilets as well as showers to be used after a refreshing dip in the Lake. Sip on a cold drink and look onto the beauty of Lake Lucerne, shrouded by mountains in the background .

5. Visit the painted squares of the old Town of Lucerne

One of the best things about strolling through the Old Town of Lucerne is its pedestrian only streets, enabling the visitor to take their time, drinking in the historical sights – one of which is the incredibly beautiful painted squares scattered about town. Start at the Weinmarkt, originally the site of a fish market, but now pay special attention to the beautiful fountain with its octagonal basin and column made of limestone. Of note are the frescoes on the façade of the Hotel des Balances and also the special fresco depicting the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. At the Hirschenplatz, you will find the Kornmarkt – a trading hall, a granary and then the Town Hall – in its long history. Do pay attention to the facades of the historical houses in the square. The Mühlenplatz is Lucerne’s largest historic square, but it is Kapellplatz that is home to the colourful Fritschi Fountain. 

6. Go shopping at one of the many excellent 2nd Hand clothing shops in Lucerne

1.FIZZEN Lucerne

Mixture of well curated fashion pieces, both brand new and vintage plus accessories and unique gifts make this a must visit in Lucerne. They have outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich too.

2. The Secondhand

At The Secondhand there is a nice selection of second-hand clothing for women and men.The Secondhand also conducts workshops where you learn how to patch or even color your favorite piece.

3. Ziitlos

Second Hand: quite retro

In the Ziitlos branches at Mythenstrasse 7 in Lucerne and Industriestrasse 17, the name says it all. Here everyone who is looking for the very special outfit from days past in Lucerne or wants to browse for cool unique items will find what they are looking for. Stylish home and fashion accessories can also be discovered in the small, fine second hand shops.

For a few francs more..

Swiss Transport Museum

One of Switzerland’s most popular museums, the Swiss Transport Museum is dedicated to documenting and exhibiting all things related to modes of transport – cars, trains, boats and aircraft. The presence of a planetarium and a cinema complete the museum experience. Exhibits include various reconstructions of Swiss rail lines, examples of road vehicles, a Car Theatre, a Space exhibit house, various Swiss aircraft, aerial cableway exhibits, and lastly a collection of artworks by Swiss artist Hans Erni. Swiss Travel Pass holders get up to 50 % discount for museum entry.

Day trip from Lucerne- Mount Rigi

Adored by writers, poets and painters , the majestic Mount Rigi occupies a special place in the heart of locals and classic tourist literature and is the perfect day trip from Lucerne.

I recommend grabbing lunch to go from the excellent local Bachmann bakery at Lucerne train station before hopping on the train to Arth-Goldau. From there, you can transfer to the historic cogwheel train, Europe’s first mountain railway that dates back to 1871. The journey to the top of Rigi Kulm takes around 30-40 minutes with great panoramic views over the lake, passing a few dozen grazing cows and working farms from you sit in the comfort of the beautifully restored historic carriages.

From the top, the views are spectacular. On a clear day, from Rigi Kulm you can see Matterhorn and even as the Black Forest in the distance. There is a range of fantastic hikes from the Rigi Kulm or you can enjoy some classic Swiss cuisine at the Rigi Kulm hotel restaurant. You can then hike down ( takes 3 hours) or take the cogwheel train to Vitznau and then hop on a scenic lake cruise that takes you back to Lucerne. Train to Arth Goldau, the cogwheel train to Rigi Kulm and back to Vitznau and the lake cruise are all covered by the Swiss Travel System pass so definitely recommend investing in the pass.

Top tip: Invest in the Swiss Travel Pass

Where to eat in Lucerne

Bachmann Bakery 

If you are planning a day trip hiking up Mount Rigi or Pilates and looking for a nice lunch sandwich or snack on the go from the train station, Bachmann Bakery which has been serving locals since 1897, is the place to go.

Besides a range of tasty filling sandwiches, if you have a sweet tooth, you can sample local specialities like the local Birnenwegge, a puff pastry with a spiced pear puree filling or the Bündner Nusstorte, a traditional Swiss tart from Graubünden.

Chäs Barmettler

The ultimate bargain for foodies has to be the hot cheescake tartlets aka Chäschüechli which you can buy at Chäs Barmettler for only 2 CHF. It is a must in Lucerne.

Wirtshaus Galliker 

If you are looking to sample traditional Swiss cuisine in Lucerne, this is the place. Serving hungry locals since 1856 the Galliker family’s closely guarded recipes and key to their popularity are a range of dishes on the menu, from Tête de veau, tripe, potato rösti with bratwurst sausages and onion sauce to traditional local puff pastry pies (my choice, served with a mushroom sauce-so good).

Where to Drink in Lucerne

Bar Frankys

If you are looking for friendly service, great cocktails and good music, Franky’s is the place to go to in Lucerne. Located on the ground floor of the Hotel Alpina, not far from the train station, you will find the bar. Besides a great range of spirits, they also service really delicious stone baked pizzas. It is that kind of place where you will make friends and end up having a few beers. This is ,however, a smokers’ bar, a rare exception in smoke-free Switzerland so keep that in mind.

Shamrock Bar

When asking locals, their favorite local bars, Shamrock’s name came up a few times. You stand at the bar, grab a local beer on Guinness on draft if that’s your drink of choice and if you stay long enough, by the end of the night, everyone at the bar and in the pub is your friend – that’s how nice it is. On Mondays they run their legendary chicken wings night where they cost just 1 CHF-bargain for Switzerland.

Chapter Lucerne

If you are looking for a nice bite to eat in the hostel, then you can treat yourself to the excellent flammkuchen (14 CHF)  or pizzas (14-18 CHF) along with a glass of wine (6.80 CHF) or beer (5.50 CHF). Also worth remembering that on Thursdays it is pizza and beer night at the hostel from 5-10pm, for the bargain price of 15 CHF.

1.Buy the Swiss Travel Pass

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free unlimited use of trains, trams, boats and buses, from 3 to 15 days with purchase of the pass. Tip: Choose the Swiss Travel Flex where you travel unlimited for 3 days in a month (267 CHF). The pass also provides unlimited use of public transport and access for free to 500 museums across Switzerland.

Aside from regional transport, public transport in cities is inclusive too – like buses, trams and funiculars. Another wonderful aspect of purchasing the pass includes 50% off mountain railway tickets. There are a number of different options for buying a specific pass and it’s well worth doing your research and buying a pass that caters to your specific needs. Itineraries for travel on consecutive days are available or the flexible pass option. Passes for 3,4,6, 8 or 15 consecutive days can be bought. One of the main bonuses of having the pass is not having to queue up to buy tickets. This feels very luxurious and certainly lifts the stress of travelling in a new country. People under 26 years get a 30 percent discount on travel.

Some of the advantages of the travel pass include not being tied down to a rigid itinerary. With the flexibility to travel far and wide, this certainly enlarges the scope for travel. Switzerland with its wealth of clear mountain lakes and rugged peaks is the ideal place to explore by boat and mountain railway. With the additional option to visit over 500 museums with the pass, buying a Swiss Travel Pass ensures that visiting Switzerland is an affordable and rich travelling experience.

2. Take the scenic route

The Swiss Travel Pass also includes boat services, allowing you to enjoy a full day of ferry rides on Lake Geneva, Lake Lucerne, or Lake Zurich, all covered by your pass. I hopped on a cruise boat on Lake Geneva on a gloriously sunny early day in Autumn and it was the perfect way to enjoy the stunning landscapes and charming lakeside towns that surround this iconic Swiss-French lake. Popular stops on the cruise include Vevey (birthplace of Chaplin), Montreux plus a magical view of the medieval fortress, Chillon Castle near Montreux.

3. Have a picnic on the train or boat

Most train stations in Switzerland have a Coop or Migros supermarket where you can load up on local cheese, sushi or salads, hot food section (Veggie Calzone for €3) plus an extensive selection of Swiss chocolate. Must try is Rivella – a typically Swiss, milk-based fizzy drink.

4. Stay in a hostel

If you are on a budget, Hostelling is the way to go. My favorites are the Bogentrakt Hostel in Chur ( Chur is a lovely wee town that you should definitely consider for your next trip to Switzerland- checkout my recent guide on Free things to do in Chur  ) , the Capsule Hotels Switzerland are a fantastic small chain that offers spacious, comfortable Japanese pod style beds where you can enjoy your own privacy at the fraction of a cost of a room: You can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , include Lucerne and Basel

Checkout my review of the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden in my brand new guide on how to enjoy Zurich on a budget

5. Lower your average daily costs and cook your own meals

Eating out, along with alcohol will be your two major expenses in Switzerland. Luckily, many of the hostels will have their own self catering kitchen so you can prepare your meals and lunches. One of our favourite travel accessories is a good Tupperware box where we can store sandwiches and I also travel with my Indian spices in case we want to whip up a curry.

6. Sleep in Straw

Checkout ‘Sleeping in Straw’, a service where travellers and hikers can sleep in barns of farms across Switzerland for as little as 30CHF including breakfast!

7. Use a reusable water bottle 

The opportunities to refill your bottle are endless in Switzerland thanks to their excellent public fountains: Zurich alone has 1200 public fountains!

8. Try 100 types of biscuits at the Kambly Factory

Skip breakfast, lunch and visit the Kambly factory store in the picturesque village of Trubschachen which has 100 biscuit varieties to choose from, with free samples!

9. Free museums in Switzerland (and free chocolate)

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free access to 500 museums. This includes Maison Cailler in Broc, Switzerland’s oldest chocolate brand where you can indulge in multiple free tasting opportunities including the infamous all-you-can-eat selection of Cailler chocolates.  Many museums in Switzerland are free: CERN in Geneva and the Nature Museum in Solothurn for example. Some cities offer free access to museums and galleries on certain days. Most museums in Zurich offer free entry on Wednesdays.

10. Hike to work off all the chocolate and cheese

With all that free chocolate and biscuits, you will need to walk it off and luckily, Switzerland’s offers 65.000 kilometres worth of hiking trails. To plan your hike, use the Schweizmobil website or download their app

11. Don’t drink

One way to save money in Switzerland is by avoiding alcohol. A beer will cost around 8 CHF while a mixer or cocktail will set you back by 15 CHF.

12. Free public transportation in Switzerland

In various Swiss cities, complimentary access to local public transportation network is extended to guests. Upon your check-in at lodging establishments in Bern, Basel, Lucerne, Lausanne, Montreux, Geneva, and throughout the entire Canton of Ticino, you will be provided with a pass that grants you unrestricted use of local transport for the duration of your visit. In Chur, you get access to local museums and also their very scenic outdoor swimming pools too.

13. Rent a bike 

Riding a bike may be one of the most eco-friendly ways to get from one point to another in a city or for exploring the outskirts of the city in a slow but contemplative way. Swiss cities like Zurich, Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Zug or the Canton of Valais, have the option of renting a bike for absolutely free! In Geneva, ‘Züri rollt’ provides bikes with a valid ID and a 20 CHF refundable deposit to rent a bike for a day, or in some cases – a few hours. E-bikes and cargo bikes are available for 30CHF/day. The main bike station is at Zurich Main Station at Europaplatz. Bikes are available daily, all year round from 8am to 9.30 pm. It’s worthwhile checking out other Swiss cities for bike rental options, which might be cheaper than other transportation options.

14. Take a free walking tour

In Switzerland, major cities like Zurich, Geneva, and Bern have free walking tours. Here are a few tips on finding and enjoying free walking tours in Switzerland.

Free Walking Tours Switzerland

Free Walking Tours Switzerland offer informative and entertaining tours at no upfront cost.

Check the Tourist Information Point

Also check the local tourist information centre in the city you are in. They can provide details about any scheduled free walking tours, including starting points and times.

Check with your hostel

Plus check with your hostel who may run their own free walking tour of the city.

15. Don’t forget: Travel Insurance 

Tourists from EU-/EFTA-countries or United Kingdom (UK) are covered by EHIC scheme to receive medical treatment during their trip to Switzerland (holidays or business trips). Nationals of other countries must have proper Travel insurance to cover the costs of treatment in Switzerland. I recommend Safety Wing 

Disclaimer: This post was made possible thanks to a storytelling project about the Swiss Travel Pass in partnership with the Swiss Travel System and Switzerland Tourism. All views, good and bad, are entirely my own.

Introduction to Zurich

Perched beside the picturesque Lake Zürich, Zürich offers the best of all worlds with its incredible public transport system, a picture postcard old town that unfolds on both side of the Limmat river, tonnes of culture and world class museums that would be the envy of any European city, plus a fantastic bar and clubbing scene – no surprise that the city consistently ranks among the world’s most livable cities. It is also one of the most expensive cities in the world but if you know where and when to go, Zurich has some budget friendly things to do. Curious? Checkout my guide to Zurich on a budget.

Where to stay in Zurich on a budget

Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden 

Situated directly opposite check-in 1 of Zurich airport is the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden with 144 capsules in 8 bedrooms, separate bathrooms, a small gym area and a café area for breakfast, drinks and snacks or just to relax.

If you have a late flight out or arriving late at night and are looking for an affordable and comfortable option to stay in Zurich airport, this is the place. Booked at least a month in advance you can get rates between 60-70 CHF.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and Basel

Stacked two high, the capsules are a Japanese style pod bed but designed in Switzerland. You can reserve the bottom bunk pod for an extra few francs. Rooms are mixed gender but there is a women only dorm if you prefer. There is also a capsule for people in wheelchairs and 5 capsules with bigger sliding doors for those with reduced mobility.

There are separate male and female communal toilet/shower rooms plus a disabled toilet/shower room. The capsules have a sliding door which locks and the key is via an app on your smartphone with bluetooth enabled or via a 4 digit pin code which you receive while checking in. In this way you have a key for both the room and your capsule this way.

The capsule on the inside includes a comfortable mattress, lighting, mirror, a couple of clothes hooks, very quiet ventilation system, mural of clouds on the ceiling and Swiss alpine scenes on the interior to give you a nice local feel. There is space under the lower capsule to store your luggage and shoes. They have cable locks if you need, as well as a separate luggage storage room.

The star feature of the hotel is the lounge. There is a host on duty 24-7. There are a bunch of cowering desks with plugs that have great views of the terminal window so a good spot for working and people watching.

A nice selection of wines are available and also cocktails on demand. There is a supermarket in the terminal about a 10 minute walk away but if you are feeling lazy, there are snacks like Pot Noodles available plus they make excellent flammkuchen and pizza from the oven (cookies too).

Breakfast contains cereals, fresh croissants, jams etc. There is a coffee machine too. The full continental breakfast is around 14 CHF.

There are no TV sets on the premises. There are groups of tables where you can play board games or chess with friends. There is also a Book Swap shelf where you can grab a book. The decor is a low key Danish Modern if that makes any sense. All in all, a very relaxed vibe.

Things to do in Zurich for free

1. The Secret Doors of Zurich

This might sound like something out of an Indiana Jones movie… but what if I was to tell you that there are three hidden doors in the heart of Zurich, each a time capsule and a portal into the towns ancient roman history and they only can be accessed with the help of a key…and you can get that key- here’s how.

Hidden in full sight of tourists and locals, hidden in an alley, an underground garage, or beneath the Lindenhof, history buffs can discover archaeological sites throughout Zurich’s Old Town. In these Portals or “archaeological windows” as they are referred to, you can discover relics like the remains of a Roman fort, ancient pile dwellings, and the Ehgraben sewer, each site, a magical insight in how medieval towns handled waste.

Most sites are open to the public for free, including those in the Parkhaus Opéra and Thermengasse. However, a key is needed to access the Ehgraben, Lindenhof-Keller, Stadtmauerkeller, and Brunngasse and you can obtain this key from the Stadthaus (City Hall) at Stadthausquai 17, Counter S, Monday to Saturday (check for hours). You will need to deposit your own ID as security deposit so bring that along. You will also get a map of all the sights for this magical quest.

2. Best viewpoint in Zurich: Hike unto Uetliburg

Popular with locals, hikers and bikers looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, Uetliberg is the perfect escape. Towering 2850 feet above sea level, Zurich’s very own mountain, offers one of the best panoramic views of the city. If you are lucky on a clear day, you get not only stunning views of the city but also of the Alps.

Uetliberg gets busier in late Autumn when thick fog blankets the entire city and also in winter when the hiking trails leading from the summit become popular for sledding.

You have the choice of hiking upto to the summit or if you are not feeling top energetic, there is a short train ride from the main train station and then it is a short hike up to the viewpoint. There is a cafe and bar at the viewpoint if you want a coffee or drink while enjoying those beautiful views.

3. Museums in Zurich you can visit for free

Before we talk about the art, as an architecture nerd I have to tell you, like the Fondation Beyeler in Basel, 1.Kunsthaus Zürich has to be one of THE most beautiful museums in the world. In 2021, David Chipperfield built a light-filled, cuboid extension that is just as much a highlight as the art presented within. Now to the art. The museum houses one of the grandest collections of contemporary art, from the largest collection of Munch paintings outside Norway plus works by Alberto Giacometti, then you will find famous names such as Picasso, van Gogh, and Chagall, Pop Art pieces by Warhol and Hamilton and other artists such as Rothko, Twombly, Beuys and Baselitz.

All this plus a design store, a bar and a “Garden of Art”, makes this museum unmissable.On Wednesdays you can get free admission to the entire collection (except to exhibitions), which also stands for children under the age of 14.

The 2.Kunsthalle Zurich can be visiting for free on Thursdays, from 5pm and if you have the Zurich Card, you get a 20% discount.

The Swiss National Museum in Zurich , also known as the 3.Landesmuseum Zürich is another museum you can visit for free with the Zurich card. It is one of the most important cultural and historical museums in Switzerland. It showcases the country’s rich heritage through extensive collections of artefacts, art, and historical objects, ranging from prehistoric times to the present day. The museum features exhibitions on Swiss culture, archaeology, and art, offering insight into the nation’s diverse history. Its iconic building, a blend of historic and modern architecture is a dream to photograph.

4. Where to eat and drink in Zurich on a budget

a) Cheapest and coolest place for a Drink in Zurich-Edis Weinstube

This bar might be the cheapest place in Switzerland to have a glass of wine at 4CHF. However Edi’s is so much more than that, it is an institution attracting a diverse crowd of older regulars mingling with students and tourists creating this melting pot of ages and cultures. It also functions as a porn art museum where new artists display their work. You will find some playful imagery across the bar so this might not be for everyone. There is also a wine shop, where you can grab a bottle of wine for 9.90 CHF (takeaway available until 10 PM on Fridays and Saturdays). 

b) Ass-bar

On your travels, you often come across a concept, so simple and brilliant and you wonder, how the hell does this not exist everywhere in the world- Let me get you into a little secret that is the Ass-Bar ( (the name is a play on words and in Swiss-German means “edible”), a bakery with a difference. The concept of the Äss-Bar is simple. It is like any bakery but here you will find here day-old and discounted pastries, sandwiches, pastries and beverages that have been collected from bakeries and food shops across Zurich. Everything is sold at 50% discount of the original price so in terms of value, this is the best value deal in town. Not only is this an affordable source of food for locals and tourists, it is the owner’s way to contribute to the community while reducing food waste. If you see one in Zurich or anywhere in Switzerland, step inside and do your part.

c) Bar Basso

A slice of Italy on the Schanzengraben with their beautiful outdoor terrace, Bar Basso is a relaxed restaurant bar where you can have a nice glass of wine. They serve some of the best pizza in town and it’s also worth trying their shared plates Tavolata from the menu. 

d) Dine at Haus Hiltl, the worlds oldest vegetarian restaurant dating back to 1898!

With over 100 dishes to choose from, pesto pasta, crispy greens, spicy daal to tofu curries, to Thai green curry – every imaginable vegetarian dish is on the menu and can be found at the buffet counter of what many may argue to be the greatest vegetarian restaurant in the world, Haus Hiltl. The mind boggling choice of dishes, salads and desserts on top make this a veritable feast. The food is weighed here by weight so in true Swiss style, food waste is kept to a minimum, a lesson that many buffet restaurants across the world could take a leaf from. Prices are not cheap but average by local standards but the quality of the food, ambience make this unmissable. Plus, did I mention that this is the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world, dating back to 1898. There are several locations in Zurich. We chose the restaurant on Dachterrasse, which benefits from a beautiful outdoor terrace, which is the perfect place to be on a sunny day. Also, they have a range of refreshing homemade fruit juices and lemonades (I tried the passionfruit -lemonade) that complements the food nicely.

Day Trips : Exploring beyond Zurich

5. Visit Rapperswill

Looking for ideas for a day trip from Zurich? Alpine Garden hotel manager, Sue, a native from the beautiful Rapperswill recommends you visit her home town on the southern tip of Lake Zurich.

A medieval town with mediterranean vibes and a pretty castle towering on a hill that offers panoramic views of the Glarus Alps all the way to the Zurich Oberland, Rapperswill is a dreamy town. Packed with picture postcard alleyways, lots of boutique shopping options, with a great variety of places to eat and drink on their outdoor terraces if the weather is nice. The town is the known as the City of Roses thanks to the 16,000 roses that flower in the rose gardens of the Capuchin monastery bordering the lake and on the “Schanz”.

One of the coolest features of the town is the half-mile-long, 8.2-foot-wide wooden bridge that connects Rapperswill across the narrowest point of the lake to the neighbouring town of Hurden. If you are taking the train from Zurich, I would suggest changing at Rapperswill onto the train to Hurden, so you can walk back along the bridge, following in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims that would walk the very same route on their way to Santiago del Compostela. 

Good to know: The trip to Rapperswill is free with the Swiss Travel Pass and Zurich Card users will need to buy a 4-zone extra ticket that allows you to travel within the entire Zurich transport network.

Tip: For good coffee and cakes, I highly recommend Gioia de Vita (Klugstrasse 10). The Hotel & Restaurant Jakob also comes recommended by native Sue for a drink or bite to eat at their jazzy brasserie.

6. Visit Chur

Another excellent day trip from Zurich is Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, for its unique blend of historical charm and breathtaking natural beauty. As the gateway to the Alps, Chur serves as a bridge between Germany and Italy, and the starting point of the renowned Bernina Express. The city is adorned with lush vineyards, stunning heritage buildings, and is surrounded by picturesque mountains. Here, life moves at a tranquil pace, encapsulated by the local word ‘Patgific,’ which means calm and relaxed. Chur also has a fascinating, albeit dark, history. It was home to the famous artist HR Giger, known for creating the iconic Alien, and housed Switzerland’s most notorious prison, now transformed into the modern and stylish Bogentrakt Hostel. This hostel, run by Marco, is a sustainable haven perfect for remote workers. Additionally, Chur offers fantastic local cuisine and vibrant bars, catering to a wide range of interests. Whether you’re an avid hiker, a fan of Giger, a train enthusiast, or simply seeking a taste of the ‘patgific’ life, Chur has something to offer every traveler. Piqued your curiosity? Here is my guide to the best things to do in Chur

7. Further day trips from Zurich

Other excellent day trips from Zurich include Basel and Lucerne. They also are great cities to visit in their own right so do checkout my guide to Basel on a budget and Lucerne on a budget.

8. Top tip: Invest in the Zurich Card to save money on public transport plus free access to museums

Zürich has one of the best public transport systems in the world that includes  trams, buses, trains, and boats. Everything runs like a clockwork, making it easy to hop anywhere within the city or make a day trip to places like Uetliburg. If you are looking to save money, I highly recommend investing in the Zürich Card.

The Zürich Card offers tourists and locals convenient access to many of Zürich’s attractions. It provides unlimited travel by tram, bus, train, boat, and cableway within the city and surrounding regions. This includes free travel between Zürich  Airport and the city centre, making it a convenient option for those arriving by plane. It also includes the trip up the Uetliberg and mini lake cruises across Lake Zürich. Additionally, cardholders receive free or discounted admission to museums (such as the Kunsthaus Zürich and the Swiss National Museum) access to a variety of leisure activities, and discounts at selected restaurants and shops. The card is available for either 24 or 72 hours, making it a flexible option for exploring Zürich with ease. You can find more details at Zürich Card.

If you are a train geek and planning a big trip to Switzerland, you may want to checkout my guide to Switzerland on a budget.

9. FAQ: Zürich Budget Travel

Q: Is Zürich expensive? 

A: While Switzerland is known for high costs, our guide proves budget travel is possible with smart planning. Stay at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden ( don’t forget to use this discount code CAPSULE15 to get  15% off your stay at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and Basel, ) take advantage of the free opening hours of museums, hike up Uetliburg, go tubing down the river in the summer- best things in Zurich can be enjoyed without breaking the bank.

Q: How can I save money on food in Zurich? 

A: Try places like Äss-Bar, Haus Hiltl, and take advantage of buffet-style restaurants.

Q: What’s the best way to get around? 

A: The Zürich Card offers unlimited public transport and additional discounts and is the best thing you can invest in to save money when visiting Zurich.

Disclaimer: Prices and availability may vary. Always check current information before traveling.

“Everything you look at can become a fairy tale and you can get a story from everything you touch.”

Hans Christian Andersen

Just 75 minutes from Copenhagen, Odense, the 3rd largest city of Denmark feels more relaxed, very idyllic with its narrow cobbled streets and half timbered houses. It sometimes feels straight from a fairytale of its favourite son, HC Anderson who lived in Odense till the age of 14. From his childhood home to the brand new HC Andersen Museum designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Anderson’s legacy is evident, everywhere you walk in Odense. Every Odense guide online will rightly wax lyrically about Anderson but I want to focus on giving you an idea of the other side of Odense and paint the bigger picture. In this guide to the best things to do in Odense, I want to tell you about all the cool stuff that locals do, where they eat and also I’ll talk about a pretty unique festival. Wherever you look, there are cool stories, personalities waiting to be discovered in Odense. Here is my guide to thebest things to do in Odense- Let’s start with a visit to the beautiful harbour of Odense where a unique experience awaits you.

1.Take a swim in the Odense Harbour Bath

Address: Gamle Havnekaj 3, 5000 Odense C

It’s hard to miss Odense Havnebad (harbour bath) with its eye-catching physical presence, slap bang in the middle of Odense Harbour. Resembling a ship, complete with a deck and a red and white striped cabin, this free to use swimming facility is a must-visit spot for swimming enthusiasts. The baths are open all year round – making the three degree water temperatures in winter – no feat for the faint-hearted. In contrast, swimming in summer is a pleasant experience. Enjoy the sauna on the premises but remember to bring your own towel. Contrary to expectations, the pool water is chlorinated and not fed from the frigid Baltic Sea. In addition to swimming, a variety of activities are available in the area including basketball, football, volleyball, roller derby and parkour. 

The harbour bath is open during limited hours in the morning and afternoon. Please check the website here for the most uptodate opening hours and times to visit.

2. Checkout the magical Kramboden

Address: Nedergade 24, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Kramboden translates to ‘the old store’. Situated at 24 Nedergade, in Odense, this listed building from the sixteenth century used to be a merchant’s house and now serves the purpose of displaying antique and museum replica pieces of furniture along with a wide range of antique items, Danish household pieces for everyday use and lots more. Nooks and corners are crammed tight with treasures and the whole atmosphere is redolent with the charm of yesteryear.  Baskets, brooms, chunky spools of twine, paper ephemera from the past, metal watering cans, clay pots sitting cheek to jowl with Christmas decorations – there’s a lot to spark the interest of the observer.  

3. Coffee at Nelle’s Coffee and Wine

Address: Overgade 21b, 5000 Odense C

Nelle’s Coffee and Wine is located in the fringes of historic Overgade, quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson House. After a visit to the house and museum or if you are looking to start the day with good coffee, grab one of the tables on the outdoor terrace and watch the world go by. The cakes here are fantastic if you have a sweet tooth plus between 5 and 6pm, they offer half price wine. 

4. Checkout Odense Art scene

Odense’s art scene, for its modest size, packs a punch and you will discover a variety of art pieces- sculptures, statues to street art pieces spread across the city. The characters of HC Anderson’s fairytales come to life on the streets of Odense in the form of beautiful sculptures. The tourism board have produced an excellent map and a guided route to his sculptures – click here. Beyond that here are a few of my favourites 

Oceania, sculpture

Renowned national artist Svend Wiig Hansen is the creator of the bronze statue Oceania, which the locals either love or hate, and which captures the attention of every visitor to Odense. It’s hard to pinpoint whether the form of Oceania is more male or female and the fascination of the piece lies in its somewhat grotesque features. The swollen feet, the misshapen limbs, the exposed chest and the serene gaze looking skyward towards the City Hall – makes you stand and stare. The bronze goddess was a gift from Odense City Art Foundation and Asea Brown Boveri A/S in 1992 and since then has dominated the street art scene of the city. 

Hans Christian Andersen Mural

The brick building with the high gabled roof is home to the mural of Odense’s most beloved citizen – writer Hans Christian Anderson. No 26 Bangs Boder is coincidentally quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson museum. The black and white mural is the work of artist Don John, who grew up in Brylle on the outskirts of Odense. 

The twelve metre high image is painted in black and white. This makes the writer’s features stand out distinctively. The eyes stare dreamily into the distance, rendering the artist in a contemplative mood. 

Roa , Odense Harbour

The three sides of Odense’s grain silo situated in Odense Harbour are decorated with massive works of art – courtesy of the artist ROA whose works are to be found in many other cities. Often known for his large scale depiction of animals, the set of murals in Odense Harbour are no exception. Large fish, feathered birds with piercing eyes and sharp beaks hang upside down in suspended animation and are perhaps a nod 

5.  Try the local smoked cheese, “rygeost” at the local outdoor food market at Sortebrødre Torv

Rygeost is a original Danish cheese and has its origins on the island of Fyn, where Odense is located. Some even trace the history of making rygeost cheese back to the Vikings but more recently, the cheese was found on farms in Fyn from the nineteenth century. 

The cheese is not matured and has a soft texture without a crust. The unique smokey flavour is produced by infusion with the smoke of burning freshly harvested oat or wheat straw under the cake of cheese. Slightly sour and flavourful, Rygeost is best enjoyed thickly smeared on a dense piece of rye bread and perhaps flavoured with the sharp crunch of thinly sliced red radish. Mixed with sour cream and herbs, the smokey cheese gains a new lease of life. 

The best place to sample the cheese in Odense is the local farmers market at Sortebrødre Torv. The market runs every Wednesday and Saturday all year, from 8 am to 1 pm.

6. Have lunch at Cafe Fleuri

Address: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Find a beautiful slice of Paris in the heart of Odense at Cafe Fleuri. Located on the outer periphery of the old quarter , Cafe Fleuri is the ideal place to catch your breath between sightseeing and enjoy a plate of something delicious. Enjoy breakfast, a hearty brunch or light lunch with fresh organic fare, plates of open sandwiches, salads, cakes and pastries, hot and cold drinks. 

The interior of the cafe has glittering chandeliers, delicate Parisian decor, vintage inspired artwork and sparkling glassware. During fine weather, the outdoor courtyard with potted plants and shady parasols, is the place to be to enjoy an intimate drink with a friend. 

7. Take a boat tour with Odense Aarfart 

Address: Filosofgangen 30B, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Follow the trajectory of the Odense River inland, and bask in the bounty of peaceful nature in the heart of Odense city, with a scenic river boat tour. The one hour long roundtrip with Odense Aarfart starts at Munke Mose and  includes stops at Odense Zoo with the journey moving on to Erik Bøghs Sti for the ongoing trip. A 15 minute walk takes the visitor to Funen Village from the Erik Bøghs Sti. The boats currently run on solar power making the boat trip noise-free and a serene experience. The boats are wheelchair accessible and the return trip can be used at any time during the day. A special boat trip with live music takes place on Saturdays during the summer. 

Round tickets cost 109 DKK and got be bought online here or from the Aafarten café and ticket office in the ‘Kunstbygningen’. The cruises start here.  The boat tours runs from 1st of April to the 30th of September, and in the autumn holidays. 

8. Visit Art Museum Brandts

Address: Amfipladsen 7, 5000 Odense C

The Art Museum Brandts in the heart of Odense, is the cultural centre of the city and the place to visit for discovering the old masters of Danish painting, along with contemporary artists. It’s easy to get lost for several hours amidst the five floors of Funen’s largest art repository. 250 years of Danish art history are crammed into various corners giving the visitor a comprehensive overview of the cultural scenery of the country. In addition there are several special annual art exhibitions to get stuck into. The museum has a special sensory art exhibition which might be of interest to both children and adults – certainly something to look out for. The festive family workshop guarantees a  learning experience for the whole family.

On Thursdays, museum visitors can enjoy extended hours, with the museum remaining open till 9 pm. Happy Hour is from 4-6pm at the museum cafe, with a brilliant deal of two-for-one drinks. Overlooking Amphi Square, the museum cafe is an inspired space, with several sculptures and a mural to capture the eye. Aside from drinks like the usual tea and coffee, wines and specialty beers are on offer, along with tasty seasonal cakes and pastries, wholesome salads and sandwiches. 

The museum shop is a nice place to pick up a souvenir of the visit – a postcard, lithograph, art book, poster or other designer item.

Tickets cost 130 DKK while students enjoy a reduced price of 75 DKK. Kids till the age of 17 go free.

9. Evening drinks at Anarkist Beer & Food Lab

Address: Albanigade 20, 5000 Odense C

The very large arched window framed by bricks and skirted by a row of neatly propped up bicycles at Anarkist Beer and Food Lab, is a portal into the world of all things beer and beer related in Odense. Housed in the 160 year old Albani Brewery, the premises include a microbrewery and cafe serving food that has a distinct local flavour. The microbrewery, the Theodor Schiøtz Brewing Company is named after the founder of Albani breweries. Discover more at the small exhibition set up in the cafe that celebrates the history of beer making at the site. The Anarkist’s Bottleshop provides visitors with the opportunity to take home a variety of local beers. 

10. Dinner at Storms Pakhus

Address: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Along the lines of Reffen in Copenhagen , this large industrial size warehouse at Odense Harbour has been converted into a space where foodies can mingle and enjoy the broad spectrum of Odense’s burgeoning gastronomic scene. The 3000 square metre space at Storms Pakhus is home to about 24 food stalls and six bars and remains open till late at night on Fridays and Saturdays. We tried a noodle soup and a Thai red curry and both dishes did not disappoint. We also loved the vibe here, lots of students and people of all ages. They have a busy calendar of events, from quiz nights and markets to DJ’s and much more. From 11-3pm, Monday to Friday many of the stalls will offer one of their main dishes at a discounted price of 55 DKK-the best value for money lunch deal in town.

When to visit Odense: Heartland Festival

One of the highlights of coming to Odense was of course visiting Heartland Festival on Midtfyn. Here were my highlights of Heartland

1. Great music

Last year, a dream came true and we got to hear Robbie Williams live for the 1st time. Cardigans had a brilliant set and also we managed to catch our favourite Danish band, Prisma.

This years lineup looks fantastic and includes

Anne Sanne Lis

Nile Rodgers & CHIC

Phoenix

Tom Odell

Tim Christensen

Tina Dickow

Blaue Blume

Blue Foundation

Selma Judith

Afenginn

Elias Rønnenfelt

Brennen Leigh

Dan Smalley

Zandy Holup

2. A sustainable festival

The festival has a big focus on sustainability and environmentally-friendly practices. The festival is big on recycling and is powered from renewable energy sources. The good rail connections made it also easy for people to come to the festival. Visitors can expect a range of talks focussed on sustainability-related topics and issues. There was a big focus on local food and drinks producers like local brewery Anarkist to fantastic cocktails from Gedulgt and local sparkling wine from Stokkebye. My favourite place to eat was Landcafe who offered organic and vegan plus plant based burgers. The food at the festival aims to be at least 80% plant-based and 20% animal-based. Wherever possible, the festival purchases locally from the island of Funen and within Denmark. They even had a special lounge where visitors can learn more about making sustainable investments or for their own business. 

3. Great vibe

The festival setting on the grounds of Egeskov Castle , lends a fairytale vibe to the festival- the entire castle park feels like a huge open-air gallery with a variety of art and design objects, video and light installations . There is a lot of space to relax , plenty of toilets and water stations for visitors.

There’s lots of fun stuff- games area & the Casa Bacardi dance stage where you can learn salsa- fab.

Also , this is a family friendly festival with a separate play area ( make up station/ costumes / bouncy castle with foam ) special food options for kids. Overall, festival caters to a wide, grown up audience- we felt at home here. Another big plus is the 4000 volunteers from the local community who make the festival possible.

What could be better

This is a festival for Danes. Majority of the talks were Danish which was a shame. Hope in the future, they broaden out more and make it more accessible.

Where to stay in Odense

This small but well located private apartment, Hus-lejlighed i ejendommens Baghus, is about 1.5 km away from some of Odense’s major attractions, like Odense City Hall, Funen Art Gallery and the Concert Hall. Hans Christian Anderson House and St Knud’s Cathedral are also relatively nearby.

This one bedroom apartment with terrace, features a private entrance and in addition to the bedroom has a living room with flat screen TV. The kitchen is fully equipped with dishwasher, tumble dryer, stove top and refrigerator, among other things. 

Enjoy free Wi-Fi, available throughout the property. Prices to stay per night come in at around 100 euros a night. 

Disclaimer

Our trip to Odense was made possible with the kind support of Destination Fyn and Heartland Festival. However all views, good or bad, expressed here, are entitely my own. Thanks for reading and your continued support to the blog.

Image by Valter Cirillo from Pixabay

1. Orvieto

If you are interested in visiting an ancient Italian city preserved from Etruscan times (an era that ended around 200 BC), with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside, then a day trip to Orvieto would not be amiss. Situated on a wide, flat butte of volcanic rock, the walled city has an elaborate network of underground caves and tunnels used from Etruscan times, well into the medieval era. Spend a leisurely day walking around this highly walkable city taking in the beautiful architecture, beautiful ceramic pottery showcased in pretty shops and the serene, sprawling views of the Umbrian countryside. The Orvieto Duomo with its stunning facade of gold and jewel toned mosaic, along with relief work on the exterior depicting scenes from the Old Testament is certainly one of Italy’s most beautiful cathedrals. Don’t miss Scalza’s Pieta, a sculpture that is both imposing and emotive. The Well of St Patrick, the Orvieto Underground and the Etruscan Museum are some other places to happily spend the day. 

Where to eat in Orvieto

Using seasonal ingredients, Trattoria del Moro Aronne serves up a great selection of pasta dishes in a warm atmosphere. Nidi di Rondine is highly recommended. Febo , a modern restaurant and brewpub located in the city center of Orvieto also comes highly recommended.

How to Get There By Train

Trenitalia charters trains from Rome Termini to Orvieto every 4 hours. The run time is 1 hour 16 minutes. The tickets cost from €8-€16.

2. Naples

The regional capital of Campanula, a city known famously for the lipsmacking Neapolitan pizza, Naples, has the advantage of only being 1 hour 15 minutes away from Rome on a high speed train. Naples has plenty to offer, from a beautiful crescent shaped coastline, stunning deep blue sea views, historic castles, delicious world famous pizza and pastries, all within the backdrop of the formidable Mount Vesuvius. During your day long exploration don’t miss the opportunity to sit down at cafe in a piazza, order and enjoy a foamy cappuccino with a Sfogliatella – a conch shell shaped flaky pastry with a decadent ricotta centre. The interior of  Naples Cathedral has the most beautiful fresco domes in the Royal Chapel. Shades of blue, white, gold and soft muted shades of many colours lend life to scenes from the scriptures. For the best view in town take the escalators to the top of Vomero Hill to gaze from the Castel Sant’Elmo onto the faraway rooftops of the city. For more city sights, visit the Piazza del Plebescito where you will find among other things, San Francesco di Paola Basilica – resembling Rome’s Pantheon, and the Royal Palace of Naples, which is now a museum. Nearby, the Galleria Umberto I shopping arcade will mesmerise you, lifting your eyes to the tall, majestic heights of the steel and glass domed ceiling. Make sure to use the very efficient metro to get around town. 

Where to eat in Naples

Visit Gran Caffe Gambrinus for coffee and dessert. For pizza, L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele is a must. Pizza Napoletana at Gino e Toto Sorbillo is also fab.

How to Get There By Train

There are high speed trains connecting Rome to Naples. The 140 mile trip can be run in 1hour 10 minutes and tickets start from just €15.

3. Florence

Florence can be best seen on foot and if contemplating a walking tour of the city consider starting a tour at the Piazza del Duomo with admiring the pretty pink and green façade of the Duomo with the spectacular dome, designed by Brunelleschi. Giotto’s Campanile- a free-standing bell tower in the typical Florentine, gothic architectural style in next door along with the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo – displaying many artworks from the Cathedral of Florence. A cumulative ticket for entry into this UNESCO Heritage complex (The Duomo, Campanile and Musee dell’Opera del Duomo comes to 15 euros). The house-museum of Dante Alighieri, author of the Divine Comedy, (considered to be the greatest work composed in the Italian language) is another place to visit. the next stop on the walking tour. The house was built in the twentieth century on the site of the Alighieri family’s property and the museum is spread out on three floors, each floor representing different phases in the writer’s life. Other places to consider visiting are the Bargello – a sculpture museum and the Uffizi in the Piazza Signora, adjacent to the Town Hall – the Palazzo Vecchio.

Where to eat in Florence

Florence has a vibrant street food scene where you can find delicious snacks at reasonable prices. Take advantage of Florence’s brilliant aperitivo scene, where local bars offer complimentary snacks or a buffet of appetizer if you buy a drink.  Checkout my cheap eats guide to Florence for in-depth tips.

How to Get There By Train

The fast Italo train from Rome to Florence takes only 1 hour 36 minutes and can costs €13.90 booked in advance via Omio , going upto €75 on the day, or choose the slower local trains which can take 3 hours and are far more affordable on the day.

4. Pisa

If you head north to the Italian province of Tuscany you will pass through the fertile valley of the Tiber to reach the historical city of Pisa, situated just six miles away from the Ligurian Sea. Actually, Pisa lies on the alluvial plain of the River Arno and was once a prosperous port city. This prosperity is evident in the glory of the architecture in its cathedral complex in the Square of Miracles – or Piazza dei Miracoli. The religious monuments consist of the Cathedral, the baptistery, the campanile or the world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa and the cemetery.

The façade of the grey and white marbled exterior of the buildings against the verdant green manicured lawns in the Piazza, create an unforgettable vision of architectural artistry at its very finest. 

Where to eat in Pisa

Located close to the tower, you have to go to L’Ostellino, a hole in the wall bar that serves some of the best panini’s in Italy. Phenomenal place.

How to Get There By Train

The fastest trains from Rome to Pisa take 2 hours 17 minutes and can cost upward of €10.

Image by Simona from Pixabay

5. Ostia

The seaside summer holiday spot of the Romans, just a stone’s throw away from Rome, basking on the Ligurian Sea is the ancient port of Ostia. 

Situated just 30 kilometres west of Rome, Ostia is devoid of tourists and Rome’s best kept secret. It contains a superb example of well preserved Roman ruins outside of Pompeii. Ostia came into existence around 620 BC and its proximity to vast salt flats meant that it was an important supplier of salt to the Roman Republic. Salt was highly valued for its role in meat preservation. The archaeological site is spread over 10000 acres and contains lots of details of the reality of Roman life, so many years ago. The Necropolis, Baths of Neptune, the Grand Theatre, Plaza of the Guilds, The Grand Horrea, the Capitolium, Forum and so much more, make visiting Ostia so very worthwhile. 

Where to eat in Ostia

Paninoteca Al Diciassette is a must for their sandwiches and also Pane E Vino Trattoria Romana for their excellent value buffet and fresh fish.

How to Get There By Train

The commuter train from Rome takes approximately 45 minutes and costs only €1.50.

6. Santa Marinella 

Another perfect beach day trip is a visit to Santa Marinella, only a 30 minute train ride from Rome Trastevere. The benefits of visiting Santa Marinella, apart from the ease of reaching the beach destination, is the proximity of the beach from the main train station. Walk towards the crescent shaped bay with sparkling clear water and perhaps rent an umbrella and a sun bed for a lazy afternoon soaking up the sun. There’s a second beach just a short distance away if the first beach is crowded. There are lots of seafood restaurants and places to eat antipasti plates on offer. Santa Marinella is known as ‘the pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea’ and exudes a vintage charm and beauty that echoes its past popularity with the Italian stars of yore. Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini owned a summer place here that  still exists. 

Where to eat in Santa Marinella

Pizzas are decent at Pizzeria Tavola Calda La Stella and visit Al Porticciolo if you a seafood lover.

How to Get There By Train

Multiple trains run from Rome to Santa Marinella, which will get you there in less than an hour, costing as little as €5.

Civitavecchia. Image by celina schou from Pixabay

7. Civitavecchia

The ancient cruise port terminal of Civitavecchia is only 61 km away from Rome and is known for its harbour, built by Roman Emperor Trajan, since the 2nd century BC. The best way to discover the joys of Civitavecchia is on foot. Rambling through the city’s twisting lanes and streets, being surprised by the quiet beauty of old churches in ancient piazzas, is a pleasurable experience after the hustle and bustle of Rome. Visit Civitavecchia’s impenetrable Roman fortress, Fort Michelangelo, in existence since the 16th century, with walls 6 metres wide. Spend some time admiring the magnificent structure and the central tower built by Michelangelo himself. If time allows, consider visiting the Taurine Baths, with their elaborate changing rooms, bath houses and bedrooms. End the day with a stroll across the waterfront and promenade. For a spot of shopping, head to the main thoroughfare, the Corso Centocelle, with many shops and opportunities for al fresco dining. Try to notice the Etruscan ruins that were found beneath street level and which are showcased by glass fronts that can be walked over. Fresh fruit and vegetable markets, churches and street entertainers make visiting Civitavecchia a memorable day trip. 

Where to eat in Civitavecchia

For great local seafood Il sugherino is a must, Cruise Cafe for comfort food and Ostaria La Babbiona for homemade Italian food at a good price.

How to Get There By Train

It takes approximately an hour to get here from Rome by train with an average ticket cost of €5.

‘Below the Mexican border the water changes colour; it takes on a deep, ultramarine blue—a washtub bluing blue, intense and seeming to penetrate deep into the water; the fishermen call it ‘tuna water.’

Steinbeck. The Log from the Sea of Cortez

In the beginning

Raw.

Remote.

Pristine.

A different planet.

There’s an unworldly feeling about Baja California Sur from the moment you first set foot on this lunar landscape. 

Overrun with cactus and barring a few sleepy towns, the tide of life here is gratifyingly, mind numbingly slow. Once you come here, the vast emptiness of the dusty landscape makes you feel insignificant. You feel very much alone with the elements here. There are no hip hotels, fast food chains or throngs of beachgoers. You come here for the very fact that they haven’t arrived yet. 

It is late November, very much off season in these parts. Yet, temperatures are in the mid 20’s, perfect late Spring weather for us in Europe. Barring a few snowbirds, odd dozen RV campers, we have the pristine Bahia Concepcion coastline to ourselves. With a bunch of incredible beaches to choose from, on the northern side of Mulegé, we plump for El Burro, one of the most unspoilt beaches in the region. Framed by a crescent shaped golden beach, the waters here are crystal clear with a gradient blue shimmer. The water is surprisingly warm and the bay is calm with no current, perfect for novice kayakers.

After a refreshing dip, we discover, right on the beach, a wonderful cafe called Nomadico. Serving handcrafted coffee, using beans from their roastery in Cholula Puebla in mainland Mexico, this cafe feels like you could be in Brooklyn or Berlin. We later dig into a local lunch of ceviche and seafood tacos, prepared on the beach by a team of local fisherman. Some days in your life feel surreal, a special gift from the heavens above but then again, we were in some kind of indefinable dreamscape that is Baja California Sur. 

Before sunrise

The cobalt blue waves crash slowly against the boulder lined strip they call the malecón. 

From the malecón, you can see all forms of life. In the distance there is a lone fisherman in his boat. The sea is calm, flat like a pristine slab of blue marble. Superimposed against the breathtaking backdrop of the mountainous craggy Isla Carmen, the boat looks unreal. Like the perfect oil painting you never thought could exist in real life. Further up the malecón is a small harbour with an impressive whitewashed lighthouse. Usually the marina is heaving with fishing and tour boats heading out to sea but it was quiet.

I am in the sleepy Pueblo Mágico town of Loreto. Loreto marks the northern border of Baja California Sur and it feels like a town lost in time. While enjoying my wonderful buffet breakfast at the Hotel Oasis, my eyes wander the horizon, following the solitary beach doggo as he roams the vast stretch of black sand beach that cradles the Sea of Cortez. On the flip side of the town, while walking the streets, you feel the watchful gaze of the impressive Sierra de la Giganta looming in the distance. 

One of my main reasons for coming to Loreto was to explore the dazzling Loreto Bay National Marine Park, often referred to as the Galápagos of Mexico thanks to the 800-plus aquatic species that call the waters home, from blue whales and Humboldt squid to sea lions. It is November and still too early in the season for whale watching so instead, I drop by the small fishing community of San Bruno. Our destination – the Playa Los Arquitos, located on the desolate island of San Marcos, which is famous for being home to the second biggest gypsum mine in the world.

Out to sea

It was hard to tell the difference between the sky and the sea that morning. They had both been painted that majestic tuna blue that Steinbeck had referred to. The sun was a big yellow ball of hazy happiness, burning slowly through the tuna blue. I had reservations about jumping on a boat that morning but it was such a beautiful morning and there was that inner voice, urging me to defy my fears, strap on the life jacket and hop on the boat. I had expected a bigger boat but when we arrived at the harbour, this wee fisherman’s boat with a 50 hp engine, greeted me. I was nervous but the sea of Cortez looked deceptively calm from land. It was only when we broke away from the harbour, out of earshot of the deafening chorus of pelicans seagulls and albatrosses, the boat thudding fiercely against the bigger waves that I felt my stomach turn. As someone who cannot swim, you can imagine the mortal fear that grips you when you are surrounding by the vast infinite blue of the sea and a boat defying gravity. I I think I had turned tuna blue myself and everyone could see the fear in my eyes. Rafa, our driver who was in front of me, then calmly resting his hand on my shoulder advises me to change position and face the horizon, side on. I felt a little better and focused my eye on the big ocean of blue. We were alone, a blip in this big beautiful ocean and then I saw the unusual undulating peaks of island san Marcos unfurling in the distance. 

We spend the morning relaxing, swimming in the sheltered bay of Playa Los Arquitos exploring its unusual rock formations and caves, a legacy of Baja’s volcanic origins. Some of the group go fishing with the owner of the boat, Daniel. Having worked 30 years on the mines on the island, Daniel retired 5 years ago and besides running fishing expeditions to the island, also runs a very popular Palapa la Abuela restaurant. They bring back a bountiful catch of several fish that include Barracuda, yellowfin tuna and marlin. Daniel makes a tuna ceviche tostada for starters. I think I might have had ceviche almost everyday of our trip in Baja California Sur. For mains , we had grilled marlin with rice and salad. So fresh, tasty with extra slices of avocado, lime wedges and coriander for garnish along with 3-4 varieties of hot sauces for extra heat. That lime, avocado, chilli and spicy sauce combo has to be one of life’s great pleasures. 

Inception

‘We don’t have the attractions of a big city. We live in small towns., rancheros. All we just have is this pristine rustic beauty. You can see the thermal geysers. You can see the cave paintings and see fossils. It’s very quiet here. We built these cabanas here for tourists and locals to enjoy the volcanic landscape. Go for a hike. Plus, you come here for the people. There’s a warmth here, a natural flair for welcoming people for centuries in Baja California Sur.’

Oscar Castañeda, Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes

We sat in perfect silence waiting for sunrise over the volcano. We had arrived late at night under the clearest night sky full of millions of stars. Before calling it a night in our humble cabanas of our eco lodge, we gather around a roaring fire and gaze in awe at the sky. Unfortunately being a full moon night, it wasn’t the perfect night for star gazing. But the moon did illuminate the night sky like a billion watt bulb. Hidden behind a plume of white clouds, we could barely make out the mighty silhouette of the 3 volcanoes, the Las Tres Virgenes as they are called. We would have to wait till sunrise before a better look. We file into our rustic and creaky cabins. It is simple but cosy. Oscar turns on the hot water (solar-powered) before bed so we have a quick shower before crawling under the covers. All for just $400 MX (€20). 

Sunrise. From the viewing tower we have a perfect 360 degree view of the landscape with not a soul in sight. The vegetation is sparse here with the main landscape dotted with multiple cacti of varying heights. Our guide and host, Oscar reminded us that the cactus sometimes grow only a few milliliters and that many of the cacti in front of us were 500 years old. 

As the sun rises, a beautiful kaleidoscope of colours emerge to the eye, from red rouge, to beige and green, that give the landscape an even more beautiful surreal look. The only real sign of life is a plume of smoke in the distance where a geothermal electric plant is located. Other than that, nothing much exists here.

As the sun burns through the clouds, the mighty Las Tres Virgenes emerges in full view, rising steeply and majestically from the desert floor. You can still see the lava tracks from previous eruptions. It is a 5 mile loop from the lodge but time is short so the next best thing was to see the hot springs ride in the nearby  El Azufre Canyon. We hop back on the car and after a short 15 minute hike from the main road, we find the viewing point, the smell of sulphuric gases reminding us that we are still within the vicinity of an active volcano. Mexico has more than 2,000 volcanoes, however only 40 are active. The Las Tres Virgenes volcano last erupted in 2001 and is still monitored. 

The end is just the beginning

It has been a few weeks since we left Baja California Sur and I still sometimes find myself lost for words when I think of this place.  The surreal landscapes and fragile environment really push the boundaries of your mind. Everything you know and recognise as familiar, cannot be found here and realise just how small and insignificant we all are in the grand scheme of things. 

I will let Steinbeck say a few words.

Trying to remember the Gulf is like trying to re-create a dream…There is always in the back of our minds the positive drive to go back again. If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen. The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we must go back if we live, and we don’t know why.”

Steinbeck

Steinbeck who died in 1968, never made it back to Baja. Maybe, he did not need to return. Baja is that kind of place. A fantasy. A dream, that lives on within you, long long after you have said goodbye. 

Disclaimer: This once in a lifetime adventure was made possible thanks to the trip planning platform, HipTraveler and the Baja California Sur Tourism board.

For the full itinerary of our Baja California Sur trip , please checkout the HipTraveler website.

Eternal gratitude to John, Swati and Luis for bringing us to Baja California and also love to the dream content team- Melvin, Nina, Garrett and last but not least, Sabrina.

While some prefer the road less travelled, I tend to find that with age, I return to the roads well travelled. Every time I go back to a place filled with good memories, even though the places may have stayed the same, I find that I have changed, so the memory is always renewed and refreshed. I am always discovering something new. The best places exist in many layers like an unfurling onion that has a habit of slowly unravelling, revealing it’s various layers over time. Leipzig is one of those cities which keeps on peeling back its layers of history, revealing stories at every twist and turn. Like an invisible vortex, it keeps pulling me back for more. It wasn’t love at first sight. I first came in 2013 and hated it. I didn’t warm to the dreary soviet style architecture and plattenbau, prefab concrete buildings, a hangover from the GDR era. However, on a subsequent visit, many years later, I found myself in the more grungier and alternative district of Plagwitz and just fell in love with the area, the vibe and found the keys to the city.  I’ve also grown rather fond of the grim soviet style architecture in a weird, nostalgic kind of way. 

The street that I keep coming back to and falling in love with, every time is Karl Heine Strasse or KHS as locals call it. If I could afford it, I would live there in a heartbeat. It has become less gritty but there is that whiff of decadence, an edge and enough imperfections that still makes my pulse race. It does remind me of the reason I fell in love with Berlin all those years ago. However, lets be clear, Leipzig is not the new Berlin and is just Leipzig. No hype or more famous doppelgängers required. 

To give some context, Karl Heine is located in the former industrial neighbourhood of Plagwitz, in the city’s west. Originally a small village, which was heavily industrialized in the mid-1850s by the solicitor Karl Heine, post reunification, Plagwitz became the bohemian district of the city and home to lots of artists. It used to be a pretty run down area with lots of semi-derelict buildings with artists squatting in them and a handful of cafes but now the street has cleaned up nicely.

I always base myself around the corner of Karl Heine Strasse in a hostel called Multitude. Technically located in the equally hip neighbouring district of Lindenau but just a 10 minute walk from the beginning of Karl Heine, this is a really homely hostel with lots of light, beds with the perfect mattress for a great night’s sleep, a very spacious self catering kitchen, a good outdoor terrace for relaxing and a great onsite bar with fireplace, which attracts a nice mix of locals. It is one of those hostel that feels instantly like home which is the same way I feel about the city. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So. Let me rewind to the most recent trip, just a few weeks back. After a quick shop for groceries at the Rewe supermarket next door to the hostel, we dust off the cameras and head off for THE walk. The weather had turned colder that day but after a few days of constant drizzle, the skies were baby blue and the pale sunlight was filtering through the rust rouge leaves, giving off an ethereal glow. The large willow trees arched over our heads in perfect symmetry as we entered Karl Heine, just like the opening pages of a fairytale. It was just pass noon and already a throng of locals were huddled around the tables of some of the cafes.

There is an enormous choice of places to eat in Karl Heine Strasse, so if you are a foodie, this is the street to visit.

It is the perfect day for a hearty bowl of soup and I know just the place – a Moroccan eatery called Salon Casablanca. Lovely well-priced food, lots of vegetarian options, good portion sizes and refreshing mint tea, I love coming here to try their tagines and soups. 

Next stop is Beard Brothers and Sisters, a vintage hole in the wall bar that serves the most scrumptious hot dogs and drinks. I have always wanted to come here in the past based on positive reviews from friends and happily they did not disappoint. Great dog, perfect bun, good range of toppings and sauces, plus if you come in the evening, they have local musicians performing in a small balcony above the bar. The food and the fun does not stop there.

We next visit  Westwerk, a former factory complex that has become the heart of the local creative scene with ateliers for artists, musicians and also home to a wide variety of affordable places to eat

I try Georgian food for the first time at Kleiner Kaukasus and it was so good. Owner Malkhazi prepares the Khachapuri in front of us – warm, soft flatbreads stuffed with molten cheese with a delicious topping of beetroot and cream.This was heavenly, melt in your mouth kind of food. Later in the trip we also popped into the next door Vietnamese diner, Bamboo’s Streetfood where on plastic tools you can sup on a bowl of Pho besides other specialities. Not the best pho but still, a very solid 8 out of 10 option if you are craving Asian flavours. I also have to mention Naumann’s Gaststube. Part of the Felsenkeller, a former ballroom turned live music and arts venue, it is worth visiting just to enjoy the grand interiors of this former neo-baroque building that dates back to 1890. Naumann’s Gaststube serves honest, working class people’s grub and I would highly recommend their schnitzel.

Westwerk is no longer a secret but still retains its creative, hippy vibe with a diverse mix of second-hand shops, artists‘ studios, yoga and tattoo studios, culinary venues such as Kleiner Kaukasus but also large billiard halls like the uber cool Mensa on the top floor. My favourite shop in the complex is Westfach where you find all kinds of beautiful things, from postcards and prints, ceramics, jewellery from local artists plus a great selection of vinyl and vintage items.

Opposite Westwerk, another local landmark I like to checkout for drinks, food and entertainment is the Schaubuhne Lindelfels. Housed in a magnificent Art Nouveau villa straight out of Paris, this functions as a bar by night, (order the house Gin and Tonic) cinema but also acts as a theatre and festival venue. On one of the nights, we were privileged to catch one of the acts at the annual Leipziger Jazz Festival. Sitting there in this 140 year old ballroom really is a magical experience. 

No trip to Karl Heine is complete without a traditional visit to one of the classic Photoautomats. The booth is one of the craziest I’ve ever seen, plastered with stickers, posters and graffiti. The photos are never great here but it is an experience sitting in that booth, a time travel machine of some sort and a connection to previous, younger naive versions of myself.

There are a few great bars on the street to checkout but if you visit just one bar, go to Noch Besser Leben, which means something like ‘Even better Living’. Such a great name for a pub and a sentiment to represent. It’s a favourite for local artists, musicians and students, actually anyone. It has that laidback rough around the edges charm, but is pretty friendly and a great place to meet locals.

At the end of Karl Heine Strasse there is a turning onto the Karl Heine canal path. Stretching for 3.3 kilometres, this is a beautiful walk, anytime of the year. In Autumn, it is especially magical with all the colours and the reflections in the water. Lined with historic villas to modern industrial lofts, the canal is also a great timeline of the city, another form of time travel where you walk from the past, straight into the future.

There are no doubt plenty more memorable places to visit in Leipzig and I’m sure with years to come, I’ll find something new and magical about Karl Heine Strasse. While we travel the four corners to see the world, in some people, places and streets we see the world and that is the magic of Leipzig and KHS for me. 

Disclaimer: My trip to Leipzig was made possible thanks to the kind support of Leipzig Tourismus but all the opinions, good and bad, are entirely mine. Thanks for reading and your continued support.

1. Enjoy the Street Art 

Olomouc has a lively street art scene thanks to the annual Street Art Festival which launched in 2007. Thanks to the festival, Olomouc has attracted international street art stars like Mr. Dheo, ZZRock, Wild_Drawing, ParizOne and Chemise, whose works can be seen across the city.

There are many examples  of street art right in the heart of the city centre like the small passage ‘Lomená Gallery’, right across from the Museum of Modern Art which currently features masked faces (‘Sweet vandalism’ artwork by local Dosy Doss), which gets redecorated every few years.

Right next to the Museum of Modern Art, is one of the most famous street art pieces in the city by Mr Dheo, a large mural of  King Edward VII of Great Britain, posing with a selfie stick. Right next to the mural there’s Marie Curie holding a container full of uranium. Other prominent large murals in Olomouc include the the Power of Silence by an Indonesian artist Wild_Drawing, right at the crossing of Pavelčákova Street and Třída Svobody.

2. See the Museum of Modern Art Olomouc

Address: Denisova 824/47, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia

With a focus on showcasing art from the 20th and 21st centuries, the Museum of Modern Art hosts a collection of 85000 art items that include paintings, sculptures, drawings, graphic art, photographs, applied art, and architectural designs. The gallery focuses on presenting both long-term and short-term exhibitions primarily showcasing art from the 20th and 21st centuries, with a big focus on Czech Modern art. Don’t forget to climb to the top of the wee tower on top, from where you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of Olomouc skyline.

Tip: Entry is free on Sundays.

Don’t miss: The Robber by David Cerny

Along the facade of the Olomouc Museum of Art you will observe one of David Cerny’s iconic sculptures, a robber who is trying to escape the museum with a valuable piece of art (a sculpture piece) in his backpack. The sculpture is apparently that of Karel Nepraš, a tribute to the late Czech sculptor. The statue is powered by an engine that moves along the ledge every hour and features the voice of Czech singer, David Koller.

3.  Have a coffee at Konvikt Bistro & Bar

Address: Univerzitní 3, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia

If the weather is nice, hop to the terrace of the atmospheric Konvikt Bistro&Bar, located in a former 17th century baroque Corpus Christi Chapel. It is a great place to relax for a coffee, cakes and they also serve a nice selection of food with vegan and vegetarian options. 

Or try 

Traffic 

Palackého 21

Just around the corner from Konvikt is Traffic, one of Olomouc’s best coffee shops, tucked into a former newspaper shop. The brainchild of a local architect, the coffee is fantastic plus definitely try Honza’s cakes, which come with a plum or sweet cream filling. Definitely keep an eye out for the quirky chairs, designed along the lines of the seats of the legendary Czechoslovak T9 tram.

4. Visit the Olomouc Astronomical Clock

Horní náměstí square is one of the nicest in the Czech Republic, surrounded by historic buildings . One of my favourite buildings on the square is the splendid 15th century baroque Town Hall with a tapering tower that features a highly unusual astronomical clock on one side, dating back to the early 15th century, making it one of the oldest astronomical clocks in the world. It was created by the clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň, almost a decade after he built the famous Prague Astronomical Clock. The Olomouc Astronomical Clock was almost completely destroyed by the Nazis and remodelled during Communist years to display scenes of proletarians at work to mark the passing hours, rather than saints. A procession of twelve apostles emerges from small windows above the main dial, accompanied by a short musical tune everyday at noon.

5.  Have lunch at Cà Phê District

Cà Phê District is without a doubt some of the best Vietnamese cuisine I’ve found anywhere in the Czech Republic. Try the banh mi sandwiches, pho or my favourite, the red curry with tofu or chicken. Portion sizes are generous, prices are reasonable, staff are friendly and speak English. Finish off with a strong Vietnamese coffee to stave off the food coma.

6.  Visit some of the architectural gems of Olomouc

I love the juxtaposition of architectural styles, from the bombastic Baroque and moody Gothic to the ugly pretty socialist architecture in Olomouc. Olomouc definitely has a very interesting architectural scene, with an intriguing mix of old and new. Dedicate your afternoon to visiting some of the city’s range of architectural gems. Here are my favourites.

Red Church of Olomouc

A church doesn’t sound like the most obvious place for finding innovative design but the Red Church of Olomouc has undergone a dramatic renovation. Reflecting the church’s Neo-Gothic style, Czech study Atelier-r has added an extension to the existing church which was built in 1902. The star feature of the renovation is a minimalist glass encased stylish cafe and reception area which has been constructed from the same pastel pink concrete of the floor. One of the highlights is the tall back wall of the reception, filled with old books that are backlit in the evening. The reception and church intends to be a hub for cultural events and live music concerts. I am not a design or architecture geek but it is definitely something you should see if you are visiting Olomouc. 

Villa Primavesi

The Art Nouveau Villa of Otto and Mede Primavesi is one of the lesser known sights of Olomouc, tucked away in the winding streets of the historic city centre. This architectural marvel has stood for a century and is a remarkable example of the style of the Vienna Secession, built by Viennese architects Josef Tolk and Franz von Krauss . Today, the villa is recognized as a national cultural monument, a time capsule of the elegance and charm of the era. The personal highlight for me is the gorgeous Art Nouveau entrance  of Villa Primavesi, adorned with the work of a certain Gustav Klimt, who was a frequent visitor back in the day.

Holy Trinity Column

Just across from the town hall you’ll also spot that UNESCO-listed Holy Trinity Column, which I saw all those years ago in a Lonely Planet guidebook. The magnificent 18th century monument, ornately decorated with sculptures of various saints was constructed as an expression of gratitude for the city’s deliverance from the plague and to honour the Holy Trinity. Supposedly the biggest single Baroque structure in Central Europe, it was built by the prominent Moravian sculptor, Ondřej Zahner and stands at approximately 35 meters (115 feet) tall, made primarily of sandstone.

Kino Metropol

One of my favourite buildings is the art deco Kino Metropol, which showcases the latest in independent cinema with a few English language cinema screenings every week. They have a retrokino screening every week. On my last trip I was privileged to see the 80th anniversary screening of Casablanca for the bargain price of 90CZK (€3.80).

Mausoleum of Yugoslav Soldiers

In the heart of Smetana Park, standing on an artificial mound, is one of the more unusual attractions of Olomouc, the Mausoleum of Yugoslav Soldiers, a Neoclassical style chapel with an ossuary that was built as a resting place for the remains of 1100 Czech and Serbian soldiers who fought each other in the First World War. For a century, the mausoleum had been lying neglected, attracting addicts and vandals before being boarded up and was recently renovated.  You will see an epigraph etched in the shape : VĚRNOST ZA VĚRNOST – LJUBAV ZA LJUBA. The first part which is Czech, means ‘loyalty for loyalty’ and the second part which is in Serbo-Croatian, means ‘love for love’

7. Take a boat ride on the river

You are probably going to need a rest after exploring all the sites so why not slow it down and see the city from a different perspective? I highly recommend taking one of the river boat cruises. Lasting 45 minutes, this service includes a live commentary from the captain about the the Morava river and the surrounding nature. The journey leads you through the original river bed from their dock ‘Olomoucká náplavka’

To book a river cruise checkout the website for sailing times. Indvidual bookings can be made but it is worth noting that without a minimum of 6 bookings, sailings will not take place. Any questions, drop a line to info@plavbyolomouc.cz ; cost 220 CZK for adults and 170 CZK for children/seniors.

8. Where to drink beer in Olomouc

Brewery Moritz 

Nešverova 2

Round off the day in style at a 1920’s style Czech pub and brewery, named after the famous local architect Moritz Fischer. Moritz offers hearty Czech cuisine and also a selection of 3 unfiltered beers, 10°, 11° and 12° beers, which are brewed on the premises. You can also book a tour of the microbrewery or a crash course in beer brewing.

Svatováclavský Pivovar

Mariánská 845/4, Olomouc

Another Olomouc classic, Svatováclavský Pivovar is within walking distance of the old city centre. With a weird location and entry (ground floor of an apartment building, through the apartment entry hall), once inside it’s very spacious yet cosy. Expect hearty Czech cuisine, friendly service and a range of beers, from classic unpasteurised beers to more unusual flavours like banana and cherry. The outdoor patio, with tables covered by plaid chequered cloth are the place to be in the summer. They also have a beer spa if that’s your thing.

9. Where to find Tvarůžky” Cheese, the famous Olomouc cheese

There is a Czech saying, the worse the cheese smells, the better it tastes, so naturally I was wary of trying ‘Tvarůžky’ Cheese. When it comes to cheese, I don’t have the most adventurous palate, especially  strong, pungent cheese but Olomoucké tvarůžky is a must eat when visiting Olomouc or exploring Czech cuisine so I had to try…

Olomoucké tvarůžky, enjoys a typical and unmistakable taste and smell, caused by the (proteolytic) degradation of cheese proteins during the maturing process. Locals often enjoy it with bread, accompanied by onions, pickles, and sometimes topped with butter. I am pleased to inform you that it tasted much better than I thought, nice savoury taste, creamy texture and goes very well with bread or crackers, washed down with a dry white wine. Maybe there is truth in that old Czech saying…

Visit the special “tvarůžky”shop: Prodejna Olomouckých tvarůžků ( Address: 7, Horní nám. 365, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia ) on Horní náměstí square, opposite the astronomical clock to sample it when in Olomouc.

10. Olomouc Nightlife tips

25% of Olomouc’s population are students so it may come as no surprise that the bar scene here definitely packs a punch for a city of its size. My favourite bar is the Vertigo student sky club, a basement club with rooms designed with scenes from Hitchcock’s classic thriller Vertigo. The cheap beers and eclectic range of cocktails here (try the Angry Dog) will leave you for sure with a vertigo inducing hangover the following day. 

If you love your Guinness and whisky, also pop into the stylish Black Stuff, Irish Pub and Whisky Bar – fab service and great atmosphere. If you are a jazz, blues aficionado, pop into the Jazz Tibet Club which plays host to local and international bands from the jazz, blues and world music scene. 

11. Where to stay in Olomouc: Long Story Short Olomouc

Location: Olomouc, Czech Republic

Long Story Short make you feel like you’re in a cloud. Combine that with climbing up sleek large stairs to the lofted beds in the dorm rooms (this hostel “doesn’t believe in bunks” – you’ll only find them in the 10-person dorms) and you’re sure to feel like you’re in a dream.

The historic building also features an in house café that serves delicious Moravian food and baked goods, local wine, beer and coffee. Additionally, downstairs is home to Vault 42, an equally beautiful co-working space.

Disclaimer

This post was produced in partnership with Czech Tourism and Traverse Events to help commemorate the thirtieth anniversary of the independent Czech Republic #Czech30

As always the opinions expressed here, good and bad, are entirely my own.

Introduction to Chur 

Chur is a small, medieval mountain town in the Swiss Canton of the Grisons, towards the eastern part of Switzerland. Reputed to be the oldest town in the country, this perfectly preserved slice of Swiss history takes visitors back to a slow paced, peaceful, more placid way of life. In the Old Town, with its heritage buildings and leafy green vineyards creeping slowly up the surrounding hills, one could almost believe that time has stood still. Viewed from the heights of Fürhörnli, the highest point of the town, Chur appears spread out across the deeply chiseled Grisonian Rhine Valley. Known for its ancient history, dating to prehistoric times, Chur contains several heritage buildings of national importance. Strategically placed on the Rhatetian Railway route, Chur is the ideal place to hop off for a few days of rest and contemplation of the peace and beauty of the mountain scenery. 

Best things to do in Chur 

1.Exploring the Old Town

Switzerland’s oldest town can be found in the Old Town of Chur. With the additional distinction of having a history of settlement reaching back as far as five millennia, visiting Chur is like stepping into a time warp and breathing in the reality of a long forgotten past. With the majestic backdrop of formidable snow capped peaks and the dark steepled city spires of Chur reaching up to the crisp Alpine air, this lofty city seems to be locked in its medieval past. Adding to its charm is the pedestrian free Old Town, enabling visitors to freely explore its winding streets and alleys, discovering town squares, old churches, painted murals, cafés, shops and museums. 

2. Explore the town by playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore all of Chur’s main sights is by playing a game of Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any form of living environment, from narrow winding cobbled streets of Chur to disused  industrial warehouses and school playgrounds. In Chur, you can hire for a small price, a set of golf clubs and a special softball from the tourist information office along with a map of the 9 holes to master which are spread across alleys and plazas in Chur’s picturesque old town. It is really fun way to discover and interact with a place , drawing you into parts of town you may have missed. It always elicits wonder and amusement from locals and tourists alike so there is never a dull moment. It is a lot of fun and something that people of all ages can enjoy.

Essentials:  To play the full 9 holes across Chur with friends or family costs 15 CHF. It takes around 2.5 – 3 hours to complete all the 9 holes. A deposit fee of CHF 10.00 per person is required , in cash when you pick up the equipment at the ‘Tourist Information’ ( Bahnhofstrasse 32, 7001 Chur ) . The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 soft ball, 1 “bäseli” and 1 lanyard. The deposit will be returned when the equipment is returned. 

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or Saint Mary of the Assumption Cathedral is a Catholic Church borne of the perfect marriage of Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. Perched high up on a hillside, surrounded by lush vineyards, the Episcopal Court contains both the 800 year old Cathedral and its neighbouring Bishop’s Palace. Dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary the stunning golden Gothic altar contrasts with the exterior – a nod to Eastern influences shaping its construction due to its proximity to major ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral is three naved and it’s central nave is fashioned from rock from Scalära. The portal of the main entryway is bolstered by six columns that are held aloft by six coloured archways. Notable interior features of the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the carved choir and the spectacular stained glass arched window. 

3. St. Martin’s Church

The Gothic spire of St Martin’s Church leaves an indelible impression on the skyline of Old Town Chur due to its character and the longevity of its existence in Chur. Built in the eighth century in tribute to St Martin, Bishop of Tours, the once Romanesque Church was burnt down in 1464 and rebuilt in the Gothic design. An ethereal feature of the Church is the more recent addition of three stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower, with pointed black spire is a convenient landmark in the centre of town and the view from the church tower of Old Town and the surrounds shouldn’t be missed. 

4. Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum is devoted to the history and culture of the surrounding area, i.e. the Graubinden Canton. It is a treasure chest of ethnographic, archeological and sociological finds and information. This permanent exhibition is spread over four floors of the Baroque museum building, originally built in 1675, which is a piece of history in itself. Young children can benefit from a visit to the museum too. A fun way to learn about each of the exhibits from a child’s perspective is to pick up a special key from the ticketing office. Each room in the museum contains a locked box, which when opened with the key reveals information about the history of individual exhibits. Not only is this a good way to impart knowledge from a different angle, it also makes each child feel extremely special. 

There is a small museum shop that proudly displays carefully curated gifts and souvenirs. The museum is mostly wheelchair accessible. 

Prices for tickets start at 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for pensioners and students while children under 16 can visit for free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

5. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Only a two minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graunünden, spanning over three hundred years. The beautiful heritage building, Villa Planta, is graced by a recent extension – designed by Barozzi Veiga and the combined unit, spread over 1200 square metres is home to 8000 pieces of art. The museum with has strong focus on contemporary art featuring artists that have a strong connection to Graubünden like Angelika Kauffmann, the artist family Giacometti, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the artist group ‘Rot-Blau.’

Entry fee for adults is 15 CHF for adults while kids under 16 go free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

6. Explore the Street Art

Chur is home to the most renowned street artists in the world, BANE. You can find his murals, astonishing in terms of scale and detail, spread across the city. 

Unmissable works include Mühleturm , the ”creative landmark” of Chur and the largest mural painting in Switzerland and “I have a dream” ( 2015) which he painted with the street artist Pest.

7. Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier 

Directly above Chur and easily reached by cable car, Brambrüesch is a hikers paradise in summer with glorious meadows filled with diverse Alpine Flora and incredible panoramic views of the mountains that encircle Arosa, the Schanfigg and the Lenzerheide. The trail starts off with a quite pleasant and scenic walk through the forest to the Malixer Alp. If you haven’t haven’t had lunch you have the option of dining in the Bergbaiz which serves hearty, fine local Alpine cuisine for affordable prices. After a relatively gentle hike, it gets more scenic and interesting as you ascend higher to the Galti-Alp. This is the highest point of the hike and the surrounding views are spectacular here. For someone who is a hiking novice and a bit afraid of heights, I really enjoyed the hike despite some initial fears. The range of flora and fauna, the views -truly is a unique experience. It is a gradual decent into Pradaschier where the cosy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its glorious sun terrace offers visitors a chance to unwind with a drink or some enjoy some hearty Graubünden fare like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the descent to Churwalden via a spectacular toboggan ride- three kilometers long and with 31 bends, some of them hairpin curves, this toboggan ride is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest track-guided railway in Europe. The toboggan ride down is 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for kids from ages 13-17 and 9 CHF for kids under 13.

Note: If you have the Guest Card Chur, you get 50% off the ascent and decent on the  Chur-Brambrüesch cableways.

Where to eat in Chur 

I will be publishing next a more comprehensive guide on where to eat and drink but here a few tips. If you are looking for traditional homemade Italian cuisine at an affordable price then Da Mamma’s is the place to come. Fixed price 2 course vegetarian lunch menu is just 16.30 CHF is one of the best value lunch deals in town. If you love South Indian/ Tamil cuisine, then you should also pop into Yaal for their lunchtime buffet which start at just 19.90 CHF. Next door neighbour to the Bogentrakt Hostel, Kostbar, where you have a good mix of local food like the Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort food like burgers and curries. Prices start from 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers a range of salads, sandwiches and snacks at affordable prices. For example, a salad nicoise costs 8.50 CHF. Last but not least, try Wok and Momo, a tibetan run diner with a range of dishes , from their excellent value stir fry wok noodles ( from 7 CHF) to momos ( 18.50 CHF).

Special mention must go to Polenta 7000, a summer pop up festival run by local creatives and kindred spirits where visitors can enjoy delicious food ( Chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF) concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, open air cinema, childrens circus. The season wraps up on 26th September 2023 but keep your eye out on the Polenta 7000 website for next summers pop up.

Best Day Trips from Chur 

Chur to Tirano with the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a must if you are visiting Chur.  The train traverses one of the world’s most spectacular and scenic routes, providing passengers with a mesmerising, once in a lifetime travel experience. Starting in the Chur, the Bernina Express glides up the Swiss Engadin Alps to culminate its journey at the Italian city of Tirano. The train spans an astonishing 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, winds up high altitude mountain passes, passes glaciers, alpine lakes, twists around spiral viaducts, skirting glaciers and hopping over country borders. Highlights of the journey include the soaring Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2253 metres, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct an architectural marvel, with some of the most jaw dropping scenery in the stretch between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm gauge is fully electrified and uses 7% gradients to negotiate sharp differences in heights. The panorama cars offer an immersive travelling experience for passengers and enable them to drink in the sights and take photos and videos to their heart’s content. Audio guides in a variety of languages are also available describing the surroundings. 

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines on the Bernina Express were declared World Heritage Sites in 2008. The Albula line  runs from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. The Bernina Line from Pontresina ascends the valley to the heights of the Bernina Pass. South of the Alps, the train traverses glaciers, lakes and mountains and then proceeds eventually towards the Swiss Italian border, to end at Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps, and somehow manages year-round travel, despite thick snow drifts in deep midwinter.

Where to stay in Chur on a budget

Bogentrakt Hostel 

One of my main hostel finds of the year was this beautiful new design hostel in the picturesque town of Chur, the oldest  inhabited town in Switzerland. It is one of those rare hostels which is really embedded in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made so many friends across the city. Chur is that kind of place where locals are super friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel, set in the heart of Chur against the scenic backdrop of vineyards, has a dark history and used to be the “toughest prison in Switzerland. Owner Marco Leibundgut transformed it into a vibrant hostel, giving the historic building a new lease of life.. The hostel’s name, “Bogentrakt,”is  a German word that translates to “curved wing” or “arched wing” and pays homage to the prison’s distinct curved structure.

Old, former prison cells have been tastefully converted into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colourful history of the prison and former inmates via QR codes and pictures which are visible throughout the hostel. 

The facilities are brilliant and perfect for nomads- dedicated coworking space at no extra charge, a really nice guest kitchen which guests can use to cook from ( handy given how expensive eating out is in Switzerland) plus a common room with a library, board games and also a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel also helps with your laundry which is very handy. The hostel reception has a drinks kiosk with local drinks and a beer on tap if you are feeling thirsty. There is also a small shop with local products, food essentials, everyday body products in case you run out during your stay. Hostel organises dinners and also has plans for hostel happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. The hostel also has a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar which is nice to have a beer and relax, especially in the summer months when the terrace is open. The Sennhof, the original complex where the hostel is located is also home to local designers, a beautiful flower shop and also an art gallery so you really feel a sense of community and being part of the everyday life of the town.

There is a range of beautiful hikes and nature within a short distance of the hostel so that is another big plus for staying here. Room rates start from 32 CHF per bed per night, Doubles from 99 CHF per room, per night. There is a special prices of 399 CHF for a weeks stay, booking directly via the hostel website.

There is a 10% discount for BudgetTraveller readers who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel: Please quote BUDGETTRAVELLER when booking. Plus anyone who books with my code will also receive a free mystery local drink on arrival.

Free Guest Card Chur

It is worth again reminding that anyone staying overnight at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur will be eligible for free the Guest Card Chur which gives you access to a wonderful range of benefits which include:-

1. Free use of public transport in the TransReno fare network, Zone 1 (2nd Class). Not valid for bikes and dogs. Valid after check-in. Bernina Express and Glacier Express is not included.

      2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the outdoor swimming pool Sand

      3. Free entry to the local museums: Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History, Graubünden Art Museum

      4.Chur-Brambrüesch cableways: Visitors get a 50% discount on the ascent and descent 25% discount on bike day tickets              (Alpenbikepark Chur and bike day ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). To get your ticket please show your guest card at the               cableways ticket office. The tickets of the guest cards are valid up to and including 5 pm. The evening rides and the rides             on 1 August are not included.

Best things to do in Chur: FAQ

Disclaimer

I was invited to Chur as a guest of Bogentrakt Hostel and Chur Tourismus. However, all the opinions, good and bad are  entirely mine.