Where Switzerland, France and Germany meet, Basel with a population of under 200000, packs a punch with its perfect blend of old and new. Beneath the picture-postcard cobblestone streets and classic architecture there is a quirky cool edge, which is evident from quirky public sculpture pieces, to its avant garde art galleries and its breathtaking modern architectural buildings – there are stories in every corner of this city. There is a ton of culture, from giants of the art scene like Fondation Beyeler to a rich hive of independent art galleries, this city is very rich in terms of the arts.Then there is the food scene, the crossroad of Swiss, French and German influences that delivers serious flavour, often with a side of rebellion. Basel has something for everyone, whatever your passion and interests are. Here is my guide to Basel on a budget. PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Lucerne on a budget and  Zurich on a budget.Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Dorms, Hyve Basel

Where to stay: Hyve Basel

Located just a short walk from the main train Station, Hyve Basel offers a range of accommodation options that cater to all kinds of travellers and budgets. If you are looking for your own space, they have a bunch of full equipped apartments that come with their own private balcony. The wood panelled private doubles and family ensuites are beautifully designed with large windows that let in a lot of a light. The most popular section of the Hotel are their hostel style Japanese pod dorms. These are some of the best designed pod dorms I have seen in any hostel in Europe. The mattress is super comfy, there is a plug point for charging gadgets, plus a huge bedside mirror that makes the pod feel less claustrophobic. Plus, there is an air vent so that there is a good circulation of air.

The shared bathrooms and showers worked really well and are cleaned regularly. A big highlight of Hyve Basel is the common room shared lounge which is popular not only with guests but locals from Basel living in the area. The common room by day is a great space to work from plus there is excellent coffee. In the evenings, it gets a bit more of a living room vibe with people eating, reading, working or maybe gathering around the fire on the beautiful outdoor terrace. There is a regular programme of events, from live comedy to board game evenings to cooked meals. The hostel also has an excellent self-catering kitchen which is a big plus for visiting Basel. There is a local convenience store just around the corner plus a Coop Supermarket further up the road, beside the train Station. Other notable facilities include a washing machine and dryer for the affordable price of 5CHF and also a pool table area. Last but not least, the hosts and staff here are super helpful. Esra, Suzanne, Alex, Sarah- everyone I met were super helpful and gave me great tips.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at Hyve Basel and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and  Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden

Street-art -The best spots in Basel

Basel has a diverse and interesting street art scene and everywhere you walk in the city, you will find an eclectic mix of murals, graffiti and installations, especially on the outskirts of the city. You will find striking graffiti and murals along the tracks between the Swiss SBB railway station and Schwarzwaldbrücke bridge, as well as around Schänzli near St. Jakob-Park and the Sommercasino. The harbour also features impressive street art. Additionally, the Bell site showcases Basel’s largest installation, a 1,700 m² wall created by over 30 artists during the Change of Colours event in August 2020.

Here are my favourite spots:

1.Gerbergässlein

4001 Basel

Commissioned by the rock bar L’Unique across the alley, this is probably Basel’s most famous street artwork – it is a massive artwork featuring an array of world famous musicians, from the Beatles to Jimi Hendrix to Ozzy.

2. Malaga loves Basel – Kohlenberg

Kohlenberg 13, Basel

Dest Jones from Basel and urban artist Lalone from Malaga both created this mural as a homage to Pablo Picasso and his influence on the cities of Basel and Malaga.

3. Sommercasino

Münchensteinerstrasse 1,

4052 Basel

A former society house dating from the 19th century, the Sommercasino besides being a popular hotspot for concerts and parties, is also a popular hangout spot for local graffiti artists and you will find some impressive artworks and motifs on the entire facade.

4.Space Invaders

Clarastrasse,

4005 Basel

Across Basel you will find 20 Space Invaders by Paris based Invader, a leading light of the urban art world. Of the 20 pieces, the most famous one is in Kleinbasel, around the Corner from the Messe Basel. Created in 2019, “The Golden Pot of the Art World”, is one of the biggest in the world.

5. Port

Uferstrasse, 4057 Basel

Along the remote edges of Klybeck right upto the “border triangle” aka Dreiländereck where the three countries meet, you will find a great mix of murals and graffiti art adorning everything from the walls of industrial buildings to freight Wagons and also in the culture space, Holzpark Klybeck.

3 great museums you can visit for free in Basel

1.Kunstmuseum Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore, open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

The collection can be visited for free on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5 to 6 p.m., Wednesdays and Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m., and the first Sunday of each month.

2.Museum Tinguely

A visit to Museum Tinguely is a must for an insight into the life and genius of Jean Tinguely, one of Basels most celebrated citizens for his pioneering work in the field of kinetic works.

Spanning his career which last more than 4 decades, the museum is the largest collection of his works, from early, filigree reliefs to his monumental machine sculptures from the 1980s.

Inspired by Tinguely, Museum Tinguely is very playful and interactive, hosting diverse events and exhibitions that will bring out your inner artist.

The museum is free to visit late on Thursdays between 6 – 9 pm.

3.Hoosesaggmuseum

In the heart of the charming and steep Imbergässlein, once the street of Basel’s spice merchants, lies the fascinating Hoosesaggmuseum (Pants Pocket Museum). There’s no entry fee, but also no entrance possible to this museum- the entire collection is displayed within a two-foot-by-two-foot window in the door of Dagmar and Matthias Vergeat’s 600-year-old home, tucked away in this narrow pedestrian alley in Basel’s Old Town.

This unique museum showcases miniature collections small enough to fit in your pocket. Anyone with a private collection of tiny objects of more than 30 items can display them here for a limited time, adding a personal and whimsical touch to the exhibits.

4. Great places to eat in Basel

1.Sapori Del Sud

Right next to the Spalentor lies a slice of Italian and Sicilian heaven – Sapori Del Sud is a takeaway run by the affable Antonio Russo and his mother, Grazia who specialise in preparing paninos and their signature pastrami sandwiches, which in a bite takes me back to New York. The prices are very reasonable – 11 CHF for a Jumbo Sandwich, which is enough to feed two people.

2. Za Zaa

A stylish Syrian-Lebanese eatery in the heart of Basel, Za Zaa  offers a nice range of dishes, from traditional salads, excellent hummus, both cold and warm mezze and great falafel.

3. Lily Maxim

Serving a mix of classic Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes, if you are looking for an  unpretentious dining experience with fast, good service, then you will like Lily Maxim. The food is adapted to local tastes but there is a good range of condiments to customise the dish to your style.

4. Klara

Another excellent option for dining is Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. Locals rave about the hummus and pita from Yoya Pitabar and the pasta and pinsa from Lamia Pastaria. Our pick of the bunch was the Vietnamese Diner,

Nón Lá Vietnamese Corner. Sabrina loved the Bun Bo Nam Bo and I tried the Banh Mi with their special lemongrass chicken and it was fab.

5. Markthalle

Located near the train station in a beautiful listed building that originally served as the local market lies the Markthalle. Since 2014 it has been repurposed into an international food Court featuring dishes from all around the world at very reasonable prices. There is a great variety of choice here,  from delicious empanadas to ceviche to kebabs and also delicious curries. When we visited, late on the weekend, we also found an excellent local preloved clothes market packed with locals.

6. Coffee at Café Unternehmen

This architectural gem dating back to 1912 was formerly the Swiss Volksbank and is Basels unofficial living room where you will find people hunched over their laptops working away, tired shoppers lounging on the stylish Eames chairs sipping on coffee or locals enjoying their excellent terrace, scoffing one of their delicious range of cakes and pastries.

Top tip: Dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall, the Marktplatz is a definitely worth wandering, especially during the week when there’s a busy weekly market on where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers.

7. Jakob’s Basler Leckerly

No trip to Basel is complete without sampling the famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of the popular German Xmas treat, Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies. The place to try the Basler Leckerli is Jakob’s Basler Leckerly, the oldest biscuit manufacturer in Switzerland, dating back to 1753.

5. Swimming, Basel style, down the Rhine river

Wickelfisch and also Buvette culture

In late spring and summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax and cool down, is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel, we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their “Wickelfisch”, a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. There are plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river – this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Our tip is Flora, which has a great selection of affordable wines and beers on tap.

Note: You can hire a Wickelfisch from the Basel Tourism Information Point for 10 CHF. Also worth remembering, sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip – Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

6. Hop on a Rhine River Ferry for just 2 CHF!

My kind of Rhine Cruise – for the princely sum of 2 Swiss francs you can cross the river in Basel: Choose from the four Rhine river ferries “Wild Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” and “Ueli”, which all link the Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. Attached to a long wire cable, the boats are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself.

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine: after roaming the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses, we hopped on the Wilde Maa ferry from St Alban in Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.

7. Exploring Klybeck

If you are looking for something bit more alternative, then I definitely recommend a visit to the former industrial district of Klybeck on the banks of the Rhine, which has been a popular magnet for artists and culture lovers since it was formed back in 2014. Holzpark Klybeck which reminds me a lot of Holzmarkt25 in Berlin has lots of cool street art pieces and is packed with pop-up bars and restaurants made from shipping containers and wooden pallets. I recommend having a beer or cocktail at the friendly Patschifig. Also, recommend the rustic Landstelle, by the Rhine river next to Holzpark for a refreshing beer or cocktail after a dip in the river from the nearby jetty.

8.  Basel for free- take a self guided walking tour

If you are short on time and prefer the independence of exploring the city on foot at your own pace, then the free Basel City App is the one you should download. There is a wealth of history and stories in every corner of Basel’s Old Town and this app, gives you the lowdown of all the stories and places you can discover. You have 5 different walking tours to choose from and they all start and finish on the Marktplatz.

9. Basel Nightlife

Basel’s nightlife punches above its weight for a city of its size. There’s something for everyone. You will find a nice mix of easygoing pubs and also cozy, dimly lit bars spread through the the  ever-popular Steinenvorstadt to the lively Rheingasse to the hip Klybeck district. If you are looking for a nice after work drink by the Rhine river, you cannot go wrong with Landstelle.

Then there are underground clubs like Nordstern, pulsing with electronic beats until the early hours.

Getting around Basel

Getting around Basel is a dream, thanks to its efficient and well-connected transport system. The city’s backbone is its extensive tram and bus network, run by BVB. Trams crisscross the city, while buses fill in the gaps.

Visitors staying at Hyve Basel get a fantastic perk – the Basel Card for free! This magic card allows you free use of public transport and discounts on attractions. If you don’t have the Basel Card, you can buy tickets from machines at stops or via the BVB app.

Basel’s compact size makes it perfect to explore by foot or bike. As mentioned earlier, for a one of a kind experience, hop on one of the Rhine River ferries. These cable-guided boats offer a wonderful way to cross the river.

Plus, if you are coming from the airport, Bus 50 will get you into the city centre in about 20 minutes. This bus is included in your free Basel Card. (remember to download it onto your phone). And if you are arriving by train, the Basel SBB station is right in the heart of the city and you can easily walk to Hyve Basel.

PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Zurich on a budget. Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Where to stay in Lucerne on a budget

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne is a fantastic option to have in terms of price, location and the facilities. Nestled in the heart of the city, steps from the iconic Chapel Bridge, Lion Monument, the Old Town plus with a Coop supermarket next door, the location is perfect. 

The innovative pod-style beds, inspired by Japanese capsule hotels but featuring Swiss design, are arranged in double-decker configuration. For additional privacy, you can opt for a lower pod by paying a small premium.

Accessibility is prioritized with a specialized wheelchair-accessible pod. The hostel offers gender-segregated shower and restroom facilities, plus a fully accessible bathroom for guests with disabilities.

Security is managed through smart technology – each pod’s sliding door locks via a smartphone app using Bluetooth, or alternatively through a 4-digit PIN provided at check-in. This single system grants access to both your room and individual pod.

Inside each pod, you’ll find thoughtful amenities: a plush mattress, adjustable lighting, mirror, and garment hooks. A whisper-quiet ventilation system ensures comfort, while the interior decor features cloud murals overhead and Swiss Alpine imagery, adding a local touch to your stay. Luggage and footwear can be stored beneath the bottom pods, with cable locks available for security. A separate luggage storage room provides an additional storage option.

Then there is the stunning shared space, a glass-walled lounge which shapeshifts from peaceful morning coffee spot to perfect coworking spot to evening entertainment hub.

Whether you’re looking to get some work done, read a book from their wonderful library of books on their comfy leather sofa, join the weekly movie nights, catch a comedy show, or bond with fellow guests over board games, there’s always something for guests here.

There is an onsite bar where you can enjoy baked goods, pizza, flammkuchen at an affordable price plus a selection of wines, beers and soft drinks if you are thirsty. At under 80 CHF a night, Chapter Lucerne proves that thoughtful design, comfort, and community does not need to come with a luxury price tag.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne and at any of their other locations , which currently include Zurich and Basel

Free things to do in Lucerne

1.Visit the Musegg Wall

An ancient fortification that protected the city in medieval times, serves as a historic landmark, a home to Lucerne’s wildlife and an excellent place to take in the views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town and stretching over an incredible 800 metres, navigating the Musegg Wall and its nine towers is a wonderful way to drink in Lucerne’s history. The 31 metre high, Zyt tower houses a clock face on its exterior that can be viewed from as far away as the Lake. Jackdaws, common lizards and insects call this well preserved wall, their home, and is undoubtedly one of Lucerne’s best preserved historical. Keep in mind that during the winter months (November-March), the Wall and Towers remains closed for visitors. 

2. Visit the Lion Monument

The ‘Lion of Lucerne’ designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, is a moving tribute to those Swiss Guards who perished in battle, during the French Revolution. The rock relief carved into the cliff face is a spectacular 10 metres long and 6 metres high but rather than the size of the sculpture, or the grandeur of the carving, it is the expression of mortal pain on the lion’s face that is the most arresting. Situated in a city park in the centre of town , the stunning grotto with the poignant sandstone carving allows visitors to step back in time and pay homage to the lives of six hundred brave souls.

3. The wooden bridges of Lucern-Chapel Bridge and Chaff Bridge

Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge is Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Made from wood, the footbridge traverses the River Reuss diagonally, and its gorgeous interior paintings depict several scenes from Lucerne’s history. The beautiful bridge suffered fire damage in 1993 and several of the paintings were destroyed at the time but have now been lovingly restored. The bridge stands as a symbol for the city and its central Water Tower and the bridge with masses of colourful hanging flowers – are emblematic of the city’s beauty. 

The smaller, less well-known Chaff Bridge is not to be ignored. This bridge also contains a number of panelled paintings although the theme of some of these paintings is death and the ever changing cycle of life. Built later than Chapel Bridge, not only is Chaff Bridge shorter, the purpose of its building was to connect the flour mills to the Old Town. Bread was made in bakeries in the New Town, to lessen the chance of a fire breaking out in the Old town, and the Chaff Bridge was an important means of connecting the people of Old Town with an important source of sustenance.

4. Swim in the Lake at Ufschötti

If you are a sun worshipper and crave the feel of a sandy beach between your toes, then look no further – a dip in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer months at the swathe of green space known as as the Ufschötti. The park is south of Lucerne’s main train station and consists of a strip of sand 200 metres long, adjacent to the Lake. Have a picnic in the green space behind the beach, shaded by trees or enjoy a barbecue. During the summer months, a beach bar serves hot and cold drinks. Other amenities include toilets as well as showers to be used after a refreshing dip in the Lake. Sip on a cold drink and look onto the beauty of Lake Lucerne, shrouded by mountains in the background .

5. Visit the painted squares of the old Town of Lucerne

One of the best things about strolling through the Old Town of Lucerne is its pedestrian only streets, enabling the visitor to take their time, drinking in the historical sights – one of which is the incredibly beautiful painted squares scattered about town. Start at the Weinmarkt, originally the site of a fish market, but now pay special attention to the beautiful fountain with its octagonal basin and column made of limestone. Of note are the frescoes on the façade of the Hotel des Balances and also the special fresco depicting the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. At the Hirschenplatz, you will find the Kornmarkt – a trading hall, a granary and then the Town Hall – in its long history. Do pay attention to the facades of the historical houses in the square. The Mühlenplatz is Lucerne’s largest historic square, but it is Kapellplatz that is home to the colourful Fritschi Fountain. 

6. Go shopping at one of the many excellent 2nd Hand clothing shops in Lucerne

1.FIZZEN Lucerne

Mixture of well curated fashion pieces, both brand new and vintage plus accessories and unique gifts make this a must visit in Lucerne. They have outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich too.

2. The Secondhand

At The Secondhand there is a nice selection of second-hand clothing for women and men.The Secondhand also conducts workshops where you learn how to patch or even color your favorite piece.

3. Ziitlos

Second Hand: quite retro

In the Ziitlos branches at Mythenstrasse 7 in Lucerne and Industriestrasse 17, the name says it all. Here everyone who is looking for the very special outfit from days past in Lucerne or wants to browse for cool unique items will find what they are looking for. Stylish home and fashion accessories can also be discovered in the small, fine second hand shops.

For a few francs more..

Swiss Transport Museum

One of Switzerland’s most popular museums, the Swiss Transport Museum is dedicated to documenting and exhibiting all things related to modes of transport – cars, trains, boats and aircraft. The presence of a planetarium and a cinema complete the museum experience. Exhibits include various reconstructions of Swiss rail lines, examples of road vehicles, a Car Theatre, a Space exhibit house, various Swiss aircraft, aerial cableway exhibits, and lastly a collection of artworks by Swiss artist Hans Erni. Swiss Travel Pass holders get up to 50 % discount for museum entry.

Day trip from Lucerne- Mount Rigi

Adored by writers, poets and painters , the majestic Mount Rigi occupies a special place in the heart of locals and classic tourist literature and is the perfect day trip from Lucerne.

I recommend grabbing lunch to go from the excellent local Bachmann bakery at Lucerne train station before hopping on the train to Arth-Goldau. From there, you can transfer to the historic cogwheel train, Europe’s first mountain railway that dates back to 1871. The journey to the top of Rigi Kulm takes around 30-40 minutes with great panoramic views over the lake, passing a few dozen grazing cows and working farms from you sit in the comfort of the beautifully restored historic carriages.

From the top, the views are spectacular. On a clear day, from Rigi Kulm you can see Matterhorn and even as the Black Forest in the distance. There is a range of fantastic hikes from the Rigi Kulm or you can enjoy some classic Swiss cuisine at the Rigi Kulm hotel restaurant. You can then hike down ( takes 3 hours) or take the cogwheel train to Vitznau and then hop on a scenic lake cruise that takes you back to Lucerne. Train to Arth Goldau, the cogwheel train to Rigi Kulm and back to Vitznau and the lake cruise are all covered by the Swiss Travel System pass so definitely recommend investing in the pass.

Top tip: Invest in the Swiss Travel Pass

Where to eat in Lucerne

Bachmann Bakery 

If you are planning a day trip hiking up Mount Rigi or Pilates and looking for a nice lunch sandwich or snack on the go from the train station, Bachmann Bakery which has been serving locals since 1897, is the place to go.

Besides a range of tasty filling sandwiches, if you have a sweet tooth, you can sample local specialities like the local Birnenwegge, a puff pastry with a spiced pear puree filling or the Bündner Nusstorte, a traditional Swiss tart from Graubünden.

Chäs Barmettler

The ultimate bargain for foodies has to be the hot cheescake tartlets aka Chäschüechli which you can buy at Chäs Barmettler for only 2 CHF. It is a must in Lucerne.

Wirtshaus Galliker 

If you are looking to sample traditional Swiss cuisine in Lucerne, this is the place. Serving hungry locals since 1856 the Galliker family’s closely guarded recipes and key to their popularity are a range of dishes on the menu, from Tête de veau, tripe, potato rösti with bratwurst sausages and onion sauce to traditional local puff pastry pies (my choice, served with a mushroom sauce-so good).

Where to Drink in Lucerne

Bar Frankys

If you are looking for friendly service, great cocktails and good music, Franky’s is the place to go to in Lucerne. Located on the ground floor of the Hotel Alpina, not far from the train station, you will find the bar. Besides a great range of spirits, they also service really delicious stone baked pizzas. It is that kind of place where you will make friends and end up having a few beers. This is ,however, a smokers’ bar, a rare exception in smoke-free Switzerland so keep that in mind.

Shamrock Bar

When asking locals, their favorite local bars, Shamrock’s name came up a few times. You stand at the bar, grab a local beer on Guinness on draft if that’s your drink of choice and if you stay long enough, by the end of the night, everyone at the bar and in the pub is your friend – that’s how nice it is. On Mondays they run their legendary chicken wings night where they cost just 1 CHF-bargain for Switzerland.

Chapter Lucerne

If you are looking for a nice bite to eat in the hostel, then you can treat yourself to the excellent flammkuchen (14 CHF)  or pizzas (14-18 CHF) along with a glass of wine (6.80 CHF) or beer (5.50 CHF). Also worth remembering that on Thursdays it is pizza and beer night at the hostel from 5-10pm, for the bargain price of 15 CHF.

PS: Checkout my earlier guide to Athens and also my guide to where to eat in Thessaloniki if you are planning a trip there soon.

1. Pandora

Lempesi 1, Athina 11742

Our tour starts at one of the oldest bakeries in Koukaki, Pandora which is tucked away on a side street near the Acropolis. Their main claim to fame are their heavenly pies which are an essential part of the Greek and Athenian diet and something that can be enjoyed at all times- breakfast, lunch or dinner. The pies here are made with homemade phyllo pastry and prepared on the premises daily. There is a range of pies to try with interesting filling from pumpkin to cheese and pasta.

During the tour we tried the two classic versions- spinach and cheese and chicken. Both were fantastic, the phyllo crumbly and delicious as well as the fillings. Perfect start.

2. Tavern Thomas

Dimitrakopoulou 18, Athina 11742

Our next stop is Tavern Thomas , a restaurant which is a modern take on the post-war tavern of Athens from the 1950s and beyond, aiming to revive the flavors that Athens had at the time. Dishes here range from homemade bread with olives to lamb with greens, mashed potatoes, greens, pies, Greek salad, braised meats and fish. 

Led by their passionate head chef Dimitris Panayiotou, we were treated to some olive oil tasting with their homebaked sourdough bread which was delicious. We then were served some typical mezes, which were fava bean puree and also zucchini balls. Both were fab,

We washed it all down with an excellent local white wine, Malagousia. All the items were from the nearby region of Peloponnese where the chef’s roots are. Overall, a very pleasant and nice experience.

3. Pantopolion

Dimitrakopoulou 34, Athina 11742

For our next stop, Theodore takes us to a popular local delicatessen with a twist : Pantopolion not only offers authentic Greek food specialities but serves visitors a wide variety of Greek beverages, from tsipouro, tsikoudia to wine accompanied by cold cuts of meat plus cheeses.

For our ‘third’ course of the tour, owners Giannis and Stavros served up a tasting platter of Graveira cheese from Crete , cold cuts of meats-pastrami and salami, olives accompanied by tsipouro and the famous Mastiha- a liquer made from the Mastiha resin of a tree which grows only on the island of Chios. Loved all the items, especially the salty mature Graveira cheese. 

4. Dyo Dekares Oka 

Anastasiou Zinni 29, Athina 117 41

Our last stop was a sit-down dinner of home-cooked Greek classics at one of the coziest tavernas in Athens. If you want to visit a typical Athenian tavern, this is the place, with guitars and snapshots of Greek music on the walls. Run by three brothers, the tavern feels more like a gathering of friends and family and you are being welcomed into their home. The brothers have kept alive their family recipes and culinary traditions so this as Athenian as it gets. We are treated to a delicious homemade moussaka, eggplant roasted in the oven with feta, marinated chickpeas and tzatziki.

We are full and bursting by the end so we were grateful for Theodore taking us on a walk through one of the most beautiful streets in Athens- Tsami Karatasou. You will find some of the finest example of neoclassical architecture on this street, wedged between the 70s apartment buildings and the odd few abandoned mansions with barred doors. 

‘If you want to see what Athens was like in the 50’s , this street is time-capsule of that time.’

Theodore remarks wistfully as we slowly wind our tour in front of the Acropolis. If you want to dig into Greek food culture, learn about the history of Athens and also listen to some nice personal anecdotes of what is life like as an Athenian, this tour is perfect and Theodore is great company.  My only minor quibble is that there was too much delicious food so my advice is to come hungry and skip lunch!

How to book this food tour

Athens Evening Food Tour of Koukaki lasts 3 hours ( 5.30-8.30pm ) and costs €79, booked directly via the Devour Food Tours website. 

Disclaimer- We were gifted this food tour by Devour Food Tours but the views expressed here are entirely my own. 

“Everything you look at can become a fairy tale and you can get a story from everything you touch.”

Hans Christian Andersen

Just 75 minutes from Copenhagen, Odense, the 3rd largest city of Denmark feels more relaxed, very idyllic with its narrow cobbled streets and half timbered houses. It sometimes feels straight from a fairytale of its favourite son, HC Anderson who lived in Odense till the age of 14. From his childhood home to the brand new HC Andersen Museum designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Anderson’s legacy is evident, everywhere you walk in Odense. Every Odense guide online will rightly wax lyrically about Anderson but I want to focus on giving you an idea of the other side of Odense and paint the bigger picture. In this guide to the best things to do in Odense, I want to tell you about all the cool stuff that locals do, where they eat and also I’ll talk about a pretty unique festival. Wherever you look, there are cool stories, personalities waiting to be discovered in Odense. Here is my guide to thebest things to do in Odense- Let’s start with a visit to the beautiful harbour of Odense where a unique experience awaits you.

1.Take a swim in the Odense Harbour Bath

Address: Gamle Havnekaj 3, 5000 Odense C

It’s hard to miss Odense Havnebad (harbour bath) with its eye-catching physical presence, slap bang in the middle of Odense Harbour. Resembling a ship, complete with a deck and a red and white striped cabin, this free to use swimming facility is a must-visit spot for swimming enthusiasts. The baths are open all year round – making the three degree water temperatures in winter – no feat for the faint-hearted. In contrast, swimming in summer is a pleasant experience. Enjoy the sauna on the premises but remember to bring your own towel. Contrary to expectations, the pool water is chlorinated and not fed from the frigid Baltic Sea. In addition to swimming, a variety of activities are available in the area including basketball, football, volleyball, roller derby and parkour. 

The harbour bath is open during limited hours in the morning and afternoon. Please check the website here for the most uptodate opening hours and times to visit.

2. Checkout the magical Kramboden

Address: Nedergade 24, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Kramboden translates to ‘the old store’. Situated at 24 Nedergade, in Odense, this listed building from the sixteenth century used to be a merchant’s house and now serves the purpose of displaying antique and museum replica pieces of furniture along with a wide range of antique items, Danish household pieces for everyday use and lots more. Nooks and corners are crammed tight with treasures and the whole atmosphere is redolent with the charm of yesteryear.  Baskets, brooms, chunky spools of twine, paper ephemera from the past, metal watering cans, clay pots sitting cheek to jowl with Christmas decorations – there’s a lot to spark the interest of the observer.  

3. Coffee at Nelle’s Coffee and Wine

Address: Overgade 21b, 5000 Odense C

Nelle’s Coffee and Wine is located in the fringes of historic Overgade, quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson House. After a visit to the house and museum or if you are looking to start the day with good coffee, grab one of the tables on the outdoor terrace and watch the world go by. The cakes here are fantastic if you have a sweet tooth plus between 5 and 6pm, they offer half price wine. 

4. Checkout Odense Art scene

Odense’s art scene, for its modest size, packs a punch and you will discover a variety of art pieces- sculptures, statues to street art pieces spread across the city. The characters of HC Anderson’s fairytales come to life on the streets of Odense in the form of beautiful sculptures. The tourism board have produced an excellent map and a guided route to his sculptures – click here. Beyond that here are a few of my favourites 

Oceania, sculpture

Renowned national artist Svend Wiig Hansen is the creator of the bronze statue Oceania, which the locals either love or hate, and which captures the attention of every visitor to Odense. It’s hard to pinpoint whether the form of Oceania is more male or female and the fascination of the piece lies in its somewhat grotesque features. The swollen feet, the misshapen limbs, the exposed chest and the serene gaze looking skyward towards the City Hall – makes you stand and stare. The bronze goddess was a gift from Odense City Art Foundation and Asea Brown Boveri A/S in 1992 and since then has dominated the street art scene of the city. 

Hans Christian Andersen Mural

The brick building with the high gabled roof is home to the mural of Odense’s most beloved citizen – writer Hans Christian Anderson. No 26 Bangs Boder is coincidentally quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson museum. The black and white mural is the work of artist Don John, who grew up in Brylle on the outskirts of Odense. 

The twelve metre high image is painted in black and white. This makes the writer’s features stand out distinctively. The eyes stare dreamily into the distance, rendering the artist in a contemplative mood. 

Roa , Odense Harbour

The three sides of Odense’s grain silo situated in Odense Harbour are decorated with massive works of art – courtesy of the artist ROA whose works are to be found in many other cities. Often known for his large scale depiction of animals, the set of murals in Odense Harbour are no exception. Large fish, feathered birds with piercing eyes and sharp beaks hang upside down in suspended animation and are perhaps a nod 

5.  Try the local smoked cheese, “rygeost” at the local outdoor food market at Sortebrødre Torv

Rygeost is a original Danish cheese and has its origins on the island of Fyn, where Odense is located. Some even trace the history of making rygeost cheese back to the Vikings but more recently, the cheese was found on farms in Fyn from the nineteenth century. 

The cheese is not matured and has a soft texture without a crust. The unique smokey flavour is produced by infusion with the smoke of burning freshly harvested oat or wheat straw under the cake of cheese. Slightly sour and flavourful, Rygeost is best enjoyed thickly smeared on a dense piece of rye bread and perhaps flavoured with the sharp crunch of thinly sliced red radish. Mixed with sour cream and herbs, the smokey cheese gains a new lease of life. 

The best place to sample the cheese in Odense is the local farmers market at Sortebrødre Torv. The market runs every Wednesday and Saturday all year, from 8 am to 1 pm.

6. Have lunch at Cafe Fleuri

Address: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Find a beautiful slice of Paris in the heart of Odense at Cafe Fleuri. Located on the outer periphery of the old quarter , Cafe Fleuri is the ideal place to catch your breath between sightseeing and enjoy a plate of something delicious. Enjoy breakfast, a hearty brunch or light lunch with fresh organic fare, plates of open sandwiches, salads, cakes and pastries, hot and cold drinks. 

The interior of the cafe has glittering chandeliers, delicate Parisian decor, vintage inspired artwork and sparkling glassware. During fine weather, the outdoor courtyard with potted plants and shady parasols, is the place to be to enjoy an intimate drink with a friend. 

7. Take a boat tour with Odense Aarfart 

Address: Filosofgangen 30B, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Follow the trajectory of the Odense River inland, and bask in the bounty of peaceful nature in the heart of Odense city, with a scenic river boat tour. The one hour long roundtrip with Odense Aarfart starts at Munke Mose and  includes stops at Odense Zoo with the journey moving on to Erik Bøghs Sti for the ongoing trip. A 15 minute walk takes the visitor to Funen Village from the Erik Bøghs Sti. The boats currently run on solar power making the boat trip noise-free and a serene experience. The boats are wheelchair accessible and the return trip can be used at any time during the day. A special boat trip with live music takes place on Saturdays during the summer. 

Round tickets cost 109 DKK and got be bought online here or from the Aafarten café and ticket office in the ‘Kunstbygningen’. The cruises start here.  The boat tours runs from 1st of April to the 30th of September, and in the autumn holidays. 

8. Visit Art Museum Brandts

Address: Amfipladsen 7, 5000 Odense C

The Art Museum Brandts in the heart of Odense, is the cultural centre of the city and the place to visit for discovering the old masters of Danish painting, along with contemporary artists. It’s easy to get lost for several hours amidst the five floors of Funen’s largest art repository. 250 years of Danish art history are crammed into various corners giving the visitor a comprehensive overview of the cultural scenery of the country. In addition there are several special annual art exhibitions to get stuck into. The museum has a special sensory art exhibition which might be of interest to both children and adults – certainly something to look out for. The festive family workshop guarantees a  learning experience for the whole family.

On Thursdays, museum visitors can enjoy extended hours, with the museum remaining open till 9 pm. Happy Hour is from 4-6pm at the museum cafe, with a brilliant deal of two-for-one drinks. Overlooking Amphi Square, the museum cafe is an inspired space, with several sculptures and a mural to capture the eye. Aside from drinks like the usual tea and coffee, wines and specialty beers are on offer, along with tasty seasonal cakes and pastries, wholesome salads and sandwiches. 

The museum shop is a nice place to pick up a souvenir of the visit – a postcard, lithograph, art book, poster or other designer item.

Tickets cost 130 DKK while students enjoy a reduced price of 75 DKK. Kids till the age of 17 go free.

9. Evening drinks at Anarkist Beer & Food Lab

Address: Albanigade 20, 5000 Odense C

The very large arched window framed by bricks and skirted by a row of neatly propped up bicycles at Anarkist Beer and Food Lab, is a portal into the world of all things beer and beer related in Odense. Housed in the 160 year old Albani Brewery, the premises include a microbrewery and cafe serving food that has a distinct local flavour. The microbrewery, the Theodor Schiøtz Brewing Company is named after the founder of Albani breweries. Discover more at the small exhibition set up in the cafe that celebrates the history of beer making at the site. The Anarkist’s Bottleshop provides visitors with the opportunity to take home a variety of local beers. 

10. Dinner at Storms Pakhus

Address: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Along the lines of Reffen in Copenhagen , this large industrial size warehouse at Odense Harbour has been converted into a space where foodies can mingle and enjoy the broad spectrum of Odense’s burgeoning gastronomic scene. The 3000 square metre space at Storms Pakhus is home to about 24 food stalls and six bars and remains open till late at night on Fridays and Saturdays. We tried a noodle soup and a Thai red curry and both dishes did not disappoint. We also loved the vibe here, lots of students and people of all ages. They have a busy calendar of events, from quiz nights and markets to DJ’s and much more. From 11-3pm, Monday to Friday many of the stalls will offer one of their main dishes at a discounted price of 55 DKK-the best value for money lunch deal in town.

When to visit Odense: Heartland Festival

One of the highlights of coming to Odense was of course visiting Heartland Festival on Midtfyn. Here were my highlights of Heartland

1. Great music

Last year, a dream came true and we got to hear Robbie Williams live for the 1st time. Cardigans had a brilliant set and also we managed to catch our favourite Danish band, Prisma.

This years lineup looks fantastic and includes

Anne Sanne Lis

Nile Rodgers & CHIC

Phoenix

Tom Odell

Tim Christensen

Tina Dickow

Blaue Blume

Blue Foundation

Selma Judith

Afenginn

Elias Rønnenfelt

Brennen Leigh

Dan Smalley

Zandy Holup

2. A sustainable festival

The festival has a big focus on sustainability and environmentally-friendly practices. The festival is big on recycling and is powered from renewable energy sources. The good rail connections made it also easy for people to come to the festival. Visitors can expect a range of talks focussed on sustainability-related topics and issues. There was a big focus on local food and drinks producers like local brewery Anarkist to fantastic cocktails from Gedulgt and local sparkling wine from Stokkebye. My favourite place to eat was Landcafe who offered organic and vegan plus plant based burgers. The food at the festival aims to be at least 80% plant-based and 20% animal-based. Wherever possible, the festival purchases locally from the island of Funen and within Denmark. They even had a special lounge where visitors can learn more about making sustainable investments or for their own business. 

3. Great vibe

The festival setting on the grounds of Egeskov Castle , lends a fairytale vibe to the festival- the entire castle park feels like a huge open-air gallery with a variety of art and design objects, video and light installations . There is a lot of space to relax , plenty of toilets and water stations for visitors.

There’s lots of fun stuff- games area & the Casa Bacardi dance stage where you can learn salsa- fab.

Also , this is a family friendly festival with a separate play area ( make up station/ costumes / bouncy castle with foam ) special food options for kids. Overall, festival caters to a wide, grown up audience- we felt at home here. Another big plus is the 4000 volunteers from the local community who make the festival possible.

What could be better

This is a festival for Danes. Majority of the talks were Danish which was a shame. Hope in the future, they broaden out more and make it more accessible.

Where to stay in Odense

This small but well located private apartment, Hus-lejlighed i ejendommens Baghus, is about 1.5 km away from some of Odense’s major attractions, like Odense City Hall, Funen Art Gallery and the Concert Hall. Hans Christian Anderson House and St Knud’s Cathedral are also relatively nearby.

This one bedroom apartment with terrace, features a private entrance and in addition to the bedroom has a living room with flat screen TV. The kitchen is fully equipped with dishwasher, tumble dryer, stove top and refrigerator, among other things. 

Enjoy free Wi-Fi, available throughout the property. Prices to stay per night come in at around 100 euros a night. 

Disclaimer

Our trip to Odense was made possible with the kind support of Destination Fyn and Heartland Festival. However all views, good or bad, expressed here, are entitely my own. Thanks for reading and your continued support to the blog.

Image by Valter Cirillo from Pixabay

1. Orvieto

If you are interested in visiting an ancient Italian city preserved from Etruscan times (an era that ended around 200 BC), with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside, then a day trip to Orvieto would not be amiss. Situated on a wide, flat butte of volcanic rock, the walled city has an elaborate network of underground caves and tunnels used from Etruscan times, well into the medieval era. Spend a leisurely day walking around this highly walkable city taking in the beautiful architecture, beautiful ceramic pottery showcased in pretty shops and the serene, sprawling views of the Umbrian countryside. The Orvieto Duomo with its stunning facade of gold and jewel toned mosaic, along with relief work on the exterior depicting scenes from the Old Testament is certainly one of Italy’s most beautiful cathedrals. Don’t miss Scalza’s Pieta, a sculpture that is both imposing and emotive. The Well of St Patrick, the Orvieto Underground and the Etruscan Museum are some other places to happily spend the day. 

Where to eat in Orvieto

Using seasonal ingredients, Trattoria del Moro Aronne serves up a great selection of pasta dishes in a warm atmosphere. Nidi di Rondine is highly recommended. Febo , a modern restaurant and brewpub located in the city center of Orvieto also comes highly recommended.

How to Get There By Train

Trenitalia charters trains from Rome Termini to Orvieto every 4 hours. The run time is 1 hour 16 minutes. The tickets cost from €8-€16.

2. Naples

The regional capital of Campanula, a city known famously for the lipsmacking Neapolitan pizza, Naples, has the advantage of only being 1 hour 15 minutes away from Rome on a high speed train. Naples has plenty to offer, from a beautiful crescent shaped coastline, stunning deep blue sea views, historic castles, delicious world famous pizza and pastries, all within the backdrop of the formidable Mount Vesuvius. During your day long exploration don’t miss the opportunity to sit down at cafe in a piazza, order and enjoy a foamy cappuccino with a Sfogliatella – a conch shell shaped flaky pastry with a decadent ricotta centre. The interior of  Naples Cathedral has the most beautiful fresco domes in the Royal Chapel. Shades of blue, white, gold and soft muted shades of many colours lend life to scenes from the scriptures. For the best view in town take the escalators to the top of Vomero Hill to gaze from the Castel Sant’Elmo onto the faraway rooftops of the city. For more city sights, visit the Piazza del Plebescito where you will find among other things, San Francesco di Paola Basilica – resembling Rome’s Pantheon, and the Royal Palace of Naples, which is now a museum. Nearby, the Galleria Umberto I shopping arcade will mesmerise you, lifting your eyes to the tall, majestic heights of the steel and glass domed ceiling. Make sure to use the very efficient metro to get around town. 

Where to eat in Naples

Visit Gran Caffe Gambrinus for coffee and dessert. For pizza, L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele is a must. Pizza Napoletana at Gino e Toto Sorbillo is also fab.

How to Get There By Train

There are high speed trains connecting Rome to Naples. The 140 mile trip can be run in 1hour 10 minutes and tickets start from just €15.

3. Florence

Florence can be best seen on foot and if contemplating a walking tour of the city consider starting a tour at the Piazza del Duomo with admiring the pretty pink and green façade of the Duomo with the spectacular dome, designed by Brunelleschi. Giotto’s Campanile- a free-standing bell tower in the typical Florentine, gothic architectural style in next door along with the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo – displaying many artworks from the Cathedral of Florence. A cumulative ticket for entry into this UNESCO Heritage complex (The Duomo, Campanile and Musee dell’Opera del Duomo comes to 15 euros). The house-museum of Dante Alighieri, author of the Divine Comedy, (considered to be the greatest work composed in the Italian language) is another place to visit. the next stop on the walking tour. The house was built in the twentieth century on the site of the Alighieri family’s property and the museum is spread out on three floors, each floor representing different phases in the writer’s life. Other places to consider visiting are the Bargello – a sculpture museum and the Uffizi in the Piazza Signora, adjacent to the Town Hall – the Palazzo Vecchio.

Where to eat in Florence

Florence has a vibrant street food scene where you can find delicious snacks at reasonable prices. Take advantage of Florence’s brilliant aperitivo scene, where local bars offer complimentary snacks or a buffet of appetizer if you buy a drink.  Checkout my cheap eats guide to Florence for in-depth tips.

How to Get There By Train

The fast Italo train from Rome to Florence takes only 1 hour 36 minutes and can costs €13.90 booked in advance via Omio , going upto €75 on the day, or choose the slower local trains which can take 3 hours and are far more affordable on the day.

4. Pisa

If you head north to the Italian province of Tuscany you will pass through the fertile valley of the Tiber to reach the historical city of Pisa, situated just six miles away from the Ligurian Sea. Actually, Pisa lies on the alluvial plain of the River Arno and was once a prosperous port city. This prosperity is evident in the glory of the architecture in its cathedral complex in the Square of Miracles – or Piazza dei Miracoli. The religious monuments consist of the Cathedral, the baptistery, the campanile or the world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa and the cemetery.

The façade of the grey and white marbled exterior of the buildings against the verdant green manicured lawns in the Piazza, create an unforgettable vision of architectural artistry at its very finest. 

Where to eat in Pisa

Located close to the tower, you have to go to L’Ostellino, a hole in the wall bar that serves some of the best panini’s in Italy. Phenomenal place.

How to Get There By Train

The fastest trains from Rome to Pisa take 2 hours 17 minutes and can cost upward of €10.

Image by Simona from Pixabay

5. Ostia

The seaside summer holiday spot of the Romans, just a stone’s throw away from Rome, basking on the Ligurian Sea is the ancient port of Ostia. 

Situated just 30 kilometres west of Rome, Ostia is devoid of tourists and Rome’s best kept secret. It contains a superb example of well preserved Roman ruins outside of Pompeii. Ostia came into existence around 620 BC and its proximity to vast salt flats meant that it was an important supplier of salt to the Roman Republic. Salt was highly valued for its role in meat preservation. The archaeological site is spread over 10000 acres and contains lots of details of the reality of Roman life, so many years ago. The Necropolis, Baths of Neptune, the Grand Theatre, Plaza of the Guilds, The Grand Horrea, the Capitolium, Forum and so much more, make visiting Ostia so very worthwhile. 

Where to eat in Ostia

Paninoteca Al Diciassette is a must for their sandwiches and also Pane E Vino Trattoria Romana for their excellent value buffet and fresh fish.

How to Get There By Train

The commuter train from Rome takes approximately 45 minutes and costs only €1.50.

6. Santa Marinella 

Another perfect beach day trip is a visit to Santa Marinella, only a 30 minute train ride from Rome Trastevere. The benefits of visiting Santa Marinella, apart from the ease of reaching the beach destination, is the proximity of the beach from the main train station. Walk towards the crescent shaped bay with sparkling clear water and perhaps rent an umbrella and a sun bed for a lazy afternoon soaking up the sun. There’s a second beach just a short distance away if the first beach is crowded. There are lots of seafood restaurants and places to eat antipasti plates on offer. Santa Marinella is known as ‘the pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea’ and exudes a vintage charm and beauty that echoes its past popularity with the Italian stars of yore. Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini owned a summer place here that  still exists. 

Where to eat in Santa Marinella

Pizzas are decent at Pizzeria Tavola Calda La Stella and visit Al Porticciolo if you a seafood lover.

How to Get There By Train

Multiple trains run from Rome to Santa Marinella, which will get you there in less than an hour, costing as little as €5.

Civitavecchia. Image by celina schou from Pixabay

7. Civitavecchia

The ancient cruise port terminal of Civitavecchia is only 61 km away from Rome and is known for its harbour, built by Roman Emperor Trajan, since the 2nd century BC. The best way to discover the joys of Civitavecchia is on foot. Rambling through the city’s twisting lanes and streets, being surprised by the quiet beauty of old churches in ancient piazzas, is a pleasurable experience after the hustle and bustle of Rome. Visit Civitavecchia’s impenetrable Roman fortress, Fort Michelangelo, in existence since the 16th century, with walls 6 metres wide. Spend some time admiring the magnificent structure and the central tower built by Michelangelo himself. If time allows, consider visiting the Taurine Baths, with their elaborate changing rooms, bath houses and bedrooms. End the day with a stroll across the waterfront and promenade. For a spot of shopping, head to the main thoroughfare, the Corso Centocelle, with many shops and opportunities for al fresco dining. Try to notice the Etruscan ruins that were found beneath street level and which are showcased by glass fronts that can be walked over. Fresh fruit and vegetable markets, churches and street entertainers make visiting Civitavecchia a memorable day trip. 

Where to eat in Civitavecchia

For great local seafood Il sugherino is a must, Cruise Cafe for comfort food and Ostaria La Babbiona for homemade Italian food at a good price.

How to Get There By Train

It takes approximately an hour to get here from Rome by train with an average ticket cost of €5.

‘Below the Mexican border the water changes colour; it takes on a deep, ultramarine blue—a washtub bluing blue, intense and seeming to penetrate deep into the water; the fishermen call it ‘tuna water.’

Steinbeck. The Log from the Sea of Cortez

In the beginning

Raw.

Remote.

Pristine.

A different planet.

There’s an unworldly feeling about Baja California Sur from the moment you first set foot on this lunar landscape. 

Overrun with cactus and barring a few sleepy towns, the tide of life here is gratifyingly, mind numbingly slow. Once you come here, the vast emptiness of the dusty landscape makes you feel insignificant. You feel very much alone with the elements here. There are no hip hotels, fast food chains or throngs of beachgoers. You come here for the very fact that they haven’t arrived yet. 

It is late November, very much off season in these parts. Yet, temperatures are in the mid 20’s, perfect late Spring weather for us in Europe. Barring a few snowbirds, odd dozen RV campers, we have the pristine Bahia Concepcion coastline to ourselves. With a bunch of incredible beaches to choose from, on the northern side of Mulegé, we plump for El Burro, one of the most unspoilt beaches in the region. Framed by a crescent shaped golden beach, the waters here are crystal clear with a gradient blue shimmer. The water is surprisingly warm and the bay is calm with no current, perfect for novice kayakers.

After a refreshing dip, we discover, right on the beach, a wonderful cafe called Nomadico. Serving handcrafted coffee, using beans from their roastery in Cholula Puebla in mainland Mexico, this cafe feels like you could be in Brooklyn or Berlin. We later dig into a local lunch of ceviche and seafood tacos, prepared on the beach by a team of local fisherman. Some days in your life feel surreal, a special gift from the heavens above but then again, we were in some kind of indefinable dreamscape that is Baja California Sur. 

Before sunrise

The cobalt blue waves crash slowly against the boulder lined strip they call the malecón. 

From the malecón, you can see all forms of life. In the distance there is a lone fisherman in his boat. The sea is calm, flat like a pristine slab of blue marble. Superimposed against the breathtaking backdrop of the mountainous craggy Isla Carmen, the boat looks unreal. Like the perfect oil painting you never thought could exist in real life. Further up the malecón is a small harbour with an impressive whitewashed lighthouse. Usually the marina is heaving with fishing and tour boats heading out to sea but it was quiet.

I am in the sleepy Pueblo Mágico town of Loreto. Loreto marks the northern border of Baja California Sur and it feels like a town lost in time. While enjoying my wonderful buffet breakfast at the Hotel Oasis, my eyes wander the horizon, following the solitary beach doggo as he roams the vast stretch of black sand beach that cradles the Sea of Cortez. On the flip side of the town, while walking the streets, you feel the watchful gaze of the impressive Sierra de la Giganta looming in the distance. 

One of my main reasons for coming to Loreto was to explore the dazzling Loreto Bay National Marine Park, often referred to as the Galápagos of Mexico thanks to the 800-plus aquatic species that call the waters home, from blue whales and Humboldt squid to sea lions. It is November and still too early in the season for whale watching so instead, I drop by the small fishing community of San Bruno. Our destination – the Playa Los Arquitos, located on the desolate island of San Marcos, which is famous for being home to the second biggest gypsum mine in the world.

Out to sea

It was hard to tell the difference between the sky and the sea that morning. They had both been painted that majestic tuna blue that Steinbeck had referred to. The sun was a big yellow ball of hazy happiness, burning slowly through the tuna blue. I had reservations about jumping on a boat that morning but it was such a beautiful morning and there was that inner voice, urging me to defy my fears, strap on the life jacket and hop on the boat. I had expected a bigger boat but when we arrived at the harbour, this wee fisherman’s boat with a 50 hp engine, greeted me. I was nervous but the sea of Cortez looked deceptively calm from land. It was only when we broke away from the harbour, out of earshot of the deafening chorus of pelicans seagulls and albatrosses, the boat thudding fiercely against the bigger waves that I felt my stomach turn. As someone who cannot swim, you can imagine the mortal fear that grips you when you are surrounding by the vast infinite blue of the sea and a boat defying gravity. I I think I had turned tuna blue myself and everyone could see the fear in my eyes. Rafa, our driver who was in front of me, then calmly resting his hand on my shoulder advises me to change position and face the horizon, side on. I felt a little better and focused my eye on the big ocean of blue. We were alone, a blip in this big beautiful ocean and then I saw the unusual undulating peaks of island san Marcos unfurling in the distance. 

We spend the morning relaxing, swimming in the sheltered bay of Playa Los Arquitos exploring its unusual rock formations and caves, a legacy of Baja’s volcanic origins. Some of the group go fishing with the owner of the boat, Daniel. Having worked 30 years on the mines on the island, Daniel retired 5 years ago and besides running fishing expeditions to the island, also runs a very popular Palapa la Abuela restaurant. They bring back a bountiful catch of several fish that include Barracuda, yellowfin tuna and marlin. Daniel makes a tuna ceviche tostada for starters. I think I might have had ceviche almost everyday of our trip in Baja California Sur. For mains , we had grilled marlin with rice and salad. So fresh, tasty with extra slices of avocado, lime wedges and coriander for garnish along with 3-4 varieties of hot sauces for extra heat. That lime, avocado, chilli and spicy sauce combo has to be one of life’s great pleasures. 

Inception

‘We don’t have the attractions of a big city. We live in small towns., rancheros. All we just have is this pristine rustic beauty. You can see the thermal geysers. You can see the cave paintings and see fossils. It’s very quiet here. We built these cabanas here for tourists and locals to enjoy the volcanic landscape. Go for a hike. Plus, you come here for the people. There’s a warmth here, a natural flair for welcoming people for centuries in Baja California Sur.’

Oscar Castañeda, Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes

We sat in perfect silence waiting for sunrise over the volcano. We had arrived late at night under the clearest night sky full of millions of stars. Before calling it a night in our humble cabanas of our eco lodge, we gather around a roaring fire and gaze in awe at the sky. Unfortunately being a full moon night, it wasn’t the perfect night for star gazing. But the moon did illuminate the night sky like a billion watt bulb. Hidden behind a plume of white clouds, we could barely make out the mighty silhouette of the 3 volcanoes, the Las Tres Virgenes as they are called. We would have to wait till sunrise before a better look. We file into our rustic and creaky cabins. It is simple but cosy. Oscar turns on the hot water (solar-powered) before bed so we have a quick shower before crawling under the covers. All for just $400 MX (€20). 

Sunrise. From the viewing tower we have a perfect 360 degree view of the landscape with not a soul in sight. The vegetation is sparse here with the main landscape dotted with multiple cacti of varying heights. Our guide and host, Oscar reminded us that the cactus sometimes grow only a few milliliters and that many of the cacti in front of us were 500 years old. 

As the sun rises, a beautiful kaleidoscope of colours emerge to the eye, from red rouge, to beige and green, that give the landscape an even more beautiful surreal look. The only real sign of life is a plume of smoke in the distance where a geothermal electric plant is located. Other than that, nothing much exists here.

As the sun burns through the clouds, the mighty Las Tres Virgenes emerges in full view, rising steeply and majestically from the desert floor. You can still see the lava tracks from previous eruptions. It is a 5 mile loop from the lodge but time is short so the next best thing was to see the hot springs ride in the nearby  El Azufre Canyon. We hop back on the car and after a short 15 minute hike from the main road, we find the viewing point, the smell of sulphuric gases reminding us that we are still within the vicinity of an active volcano. Mexico has more than 2,000 volcanoes, however only 40 are active. The Las Tres Virgenes volcano last erupted in 2001 and is still monitored. 

The end is just the beginning

It has been a few weeks since we left Baja California Sur and I still sometimes find myself lost for words when I think of this place.  The surreal landscapes and fragile environment really push the boundaries of your mind. Everything you know and recognise as familiar, cannot be found here and realise just how small and insignificant we all are in the grand scheme of things. 

I will let Steinbeck say a few words.

Trying to remember the Gulf is like trying to re-create a dream…There is always in the back of our minds the positive drive to go back again. If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen. The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we must go back if we live, and we don’t know why.”

Steinbeck

Steinbeck who died in 1968, never made it back to Baja. Maybe, he did not need to return. Baja is that kind of place. A fantasy. A dream, that lives on within you, long long after you have said goodbye. 

Disclaimer: This once in a lifetime adventure was made possible thanks to the trip planning platform, HipTraveler and the Baja California Sur Tourism board.

For the full itinerary of our Baja California Sur trip , please checkout the HipTraveler website.

Eternal gratitude to John, Swati and Luis for bringing us to Baja California and also love to the dream content team- Melvin, Nina, Garrett and last but not least, Sabrina.

We stumble down the sulphur-yellow dirt track, no sign of Claire’s secret beach. In the past 15 minutes we have been honoured with just the odd lonesome goat for company and the swallows, dancing above our heads. I take a slurp of my water. It is past midday but already the April sun feels strong on our skin. We reach a dead end. Force of nature implores me to look at my phone for answers. According to Google Maps, the track or beach does not exist. We are in no-mans lands. I look up again, into the distance, my eyes swimming in the most perfect shade of deep blue Mediterranean Sea. Sabrina reminds me that Claire, our new Gozitan acquaintance had mentioned a turn off to the right. We retrace our steps up the dusty yellow track.

I notice the clumps of wild feral fennel casually growing amidst the poppy flowers. We find our turn off, an overgrown path covered with a thicket of wildflowers of all the colours of the rainbow. I pause to take photos of them so that someone can identify them to me later. Besides the happy dance of swallows there is also the sweet meditative hum of bees, frolicking in the meadow of wildflowers. I close my eyes. Sometimes, travel presents you with these moments of almost near perfection.I soon hear a wild yelp of happiness from Sabrina. I open my eyes and see she has ventured forth, via a craggy slope through the impenetrable haze of wildflowers.

She has found the path to the mythical secret beach. It has the perfect view of the dreamy turquoise blue waters of Comino in the distance. We must have sat there in perfect silence for almost half an hour before a couple came. There was a look of surprise and then a big smile. 

‘So you know about this beach too.’

We nodded our heads reassuringly and raised our hands, half apologetically to reassure them…the secret stays with us. We retrace our steps up the track. The goat had disappeared. When we reach the top of the track and look down again, there was no visible landmark in the horizon of our secret beach, just the swallows dancing in the sky.

Maybe there are no secrets in travel anymore.

It was better before. We had to use our imagination and not rely on Instagram to visualise a place. Maybe its an old age thing, but there is this horrible tendency of people in my age group to romanticise the past. Travelling was more fun, authentic. There were less crowds in the most popular travel hotspots. You didn’t need to get up at 5 am to see the Trevi fountain. You could fly Ryanair around Europe for as little as €2 return. Plus, there was no hassle with carrying liquids or restrictions of carry-on luggage. Hostels were super cheap. I remember travelling with my trusted Lonely Planet guidebook and the 3 hostels listed seemed to have room for everyone.

Then came the age of the internet. Social media. Suddenly, there was a huge amount of information at the tips of our hands. We were in theory, better equipped to travel more and better. The opening hours of restaurants could be found without the need of a phone call. We could find the list of the ten best things to do in Berlin in a flash thanks to the boom in blogs. There was no need to pop into the tourist information office or speak to travel advisors anymore. No need for human interaction. Everything you needed to know about a city or place was one Google search away. Now we have AI tools to help plan our travel itineraries. Nothing is left to chance. We have our bottomless bucket list of places to see before we die. Instagram over nourishes our desire and dream to travel. With so many places to see and so little time, travel becomes another task, another list of things to finish. We arrive home, miserable and unfulfilled. 

‘If I was to tell a tourist what to do in Gozo, I would tell them to go swimming on one of our amazing beaches where locals spend lot of time in spring and summer. I would tell them to do a cooking class. Immerse yourself in the everyday life of the island. Go to any cafe or bar.’

Claire, Mojo.

I am back in Malta after almost 8 years. I remember looking at the old photos and feel like it was a different era and a different me. One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the small, traditional fishing village of Marsaxlokk in the south eastern corner of Malta. I remember on a sleepy late September afternoon having the whole waterfront to myself, a bottle of the local Cisk lager in hand. I also remember wandering the narrow streets of the Mdina, the silent city, timeless and this feeling of almost walking back in time. 10 years later and I am excited to be back in Malta but a little nervous. It is like when you reconnect with old friends and wonder, will it be as nice as before?

The popularity of the island in the years past has soared thanks to the popularity of shows like Game of Thrones. We revisit Mdina and it seems a lot less silent. The crowds have multiplied. Luckily, I had been warned by some locals to avoid Mdina and visit the neighbouring village of Rabat. Rabat feels as timeless and enchanting as Mdina but when we visited, there was hardly any crowds to be seen, just the odd local. We were grateful to Mark from the Kings Crown pub for the tip.

Confession time. It was not entirely by chance we met Mark. Philip told us about Stephen. Stephen spoke of Mark. We met Philip thanks to a card game we invented. Let me explain.

For this trip to Malta we had decided to do something different. Instead of planning the trip to death via researching endless blog posts, Pinterest boards and Instagram galleries, chewing through a guidebook, we decided to have a different kind of trip. The whole trip would be a game of chance, constructed with the help of speaking to random locals. No guidebook could be used. No smartphone too, unless we were completely lost. Approaching locals randomly to ask for travel tips can be awkward sometimes so I had to come up with a device, so I thought why not create a deck of cards with questions to the most common things you would want to know on holiday. The cards would help reduce the awkwardness of breaking the ice. The idea would be that locals would draw a card and then give us a tip based on the question on the card. We would then follow on that tip and also ask the local to recommend another local we should meet and help us on our quest. 

The trip

So how did it go? Our experiment started in Gozo when we met the wonderful friendly Philip Spiteri from the popular Ta Philip restaurant. He pretty much introduced us to the whole island. After drawing the card asking him to name his favourite lunch spot, he recommended we meet the lovely Claire who runs Mojo restaurant in Victoria, Gozo. Claire, was responsible for introducing us to the secret beach I mentioned earlier. When he drew the card asked to name his favourite pub, he recommended we visit the Gleneagles pub in Mgarr Harbour, run by the affable Tony who turned out to be a goldmine for tips and also a man with many stories to tell of the island. While there is sadly no such thing as a time machine, with some people you meet on your travels, you have a connection with the past, with all the magic and sadness that has passed before, that sense of almost being there when they describe all the emotions, the stories of the people they met in their bar for the last 40 years. Tony was that kind of person. A connection to Gozo’s past.

We ended three memorable days with a bag full of new memories and friends. We ended up in a lot of new places and a very different perspective of Malta. I would need an entire day just to tell you about all the magic but let me finish with the end of our trip. Picture the most incredible sunset. We were at Dingli cliffs. We had received the tip from countless locals. It seems like everyone had got the same tip too. The car park was jammed and the viewing point was already a tussle between visitors, scrambling to get that perfect picture of the sunset that would immortalise the moment in history. Led by our driver, Alex we walked further away from the crowds, along the cliffs until we were strangled by the empty silence of the big wide open sea. A retired police officer who hunted down local smugglers, Alex knew every street, every dust track like the back of his hand. He wasn’t a man of many words but there were times when showing us the island, I would see a flicker of emotion in his eye. I saw his eyes widen when we reached the spot. We were a million miles from everything and just the open wide sea, bathed in this golden light as that fiery red ball of fire slowly melted into the horizon. Somewhere in the distance was Africa. It was then I fished out my pack of Twistees.

It was a tip from local chef Stephen La Rosa. 

‘Do not leave the island without eating this!’

We sadly had no Cisk but those twistees tasted damn good. We ate it to our hearts content in perfect silence, till the darkness swallowed the sun and our shadows. I then gave Alex the biggest hug and I think we both had a tear in our eyes.

What makes moments like this and travel so perfect?

No matter how much we perfect technology and AI, some things in life can’t be manufactured. In the end, it comes down to timing. Plus, also being in the right place. Serendipity. In this sense, Malta was perfect. 

The beauty of our adventure was that it was nothing to do with luck but all about being brave and taking a chance. So, my message is simple. If you do visit Malta, leave the guidebook and phone behind in the room. Go to a bar. Order the local drink. Have a random conversation with a local. Give them the permission to share their home with you. You don’t need the card game. I promise you, you will be surprised at what you might discover. 

In the end, it is really simple. Travel is all about the people. It becomes so much more meaningful and exciting when we connect with locals, find out their story and maybe learn something new that changes your perspective.

Turns out, there are still secrets in travel. You just need to ask the right people.

Further reading

Best cheap eats in Gozo

Cheap eats guide to Malta

Things to do in Malta and Gozo

Disclaimer: The trip to Malta was possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Malta UK and partners. However, all the opinions expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own. Plus, a huge thank you to all the locals we met in Malta and Gozo who made our trip unforgettable. More Malta and Gozo stories and tips coming up soon on the blog. In the meantime, please visit the Visit Malta website for more ideas to plan your trip.

Introduction to Chur 

Chur is a small, medieval mountain town in the Swiss Canton of the Grisons, towards the eastern part of Switzerland. Reputed to be the oldest town in the country, this perfectly preserved slice of Swiss history takes visitors back to a slow paced, peaceful, more placid way of life. In the Old Town, with its heritage buildings and leafy green vineyards creeping slowly up the surrounding hills, one could almost believe that time has stood still. Viewed from the heights of Fürhörnli, the highest point of the town, Chur appears spread out across the deeply chiseled Grisonian Rhine Valley. Known for its ancient history, dating to prehistoric times, Chur contains several heritage buildings of national importance. Strategically placed on the Rhatetian Railway route, Chur is the ideal place to hop off for a few days of rest and contemplation of the peace and beauty of the mountain scenery. 

Best things to do in Chur 

1.Exploring the Old Town

Switzerland’s oldest town can be found in the Old Town of Chur. With the additional distinction of having a history of settlement reaching back as far as five millennia, visiting Chur is like stepping into a time warp and breathing in the reality of a long forgotten past. With the majestic backdrop of formidable snow capped peaks and the dark steepled city spires of Chur reaching up to the crisp Alpine air, this lofty city seems to be locked in its medieval past. Adding to its charm is the pedestrian free Old Town, enabling visitors to freely explore its winding streets and alleys, discovering town squares, old churches, painted murals, cafés, shops and museums. 

2. Explore the town by playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore all of Chur’s main sights is by playing a game of Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any form of living environment, from narrow winding cobbled streets of Chur to disused  industrial warehouses and school playgrounds. In Chur, you can hire for a small price, a set of golf clubs and a special softball from the tourist information office along with a map of the 9 holes to master which are spread across alleys and plazas in Chur’s picturesque old town. It is really fun way to discover and interact with a place , drawing you into parts of town you may have missed. It always elicits wonder and amusement from locals and tourists alike so there is never a dull moment. It is a lot of fun and something that people of all ages can enjoy.

Essentials:  To play the full 9 holes across Chur with friends or family costs 15 CHF. It takes around 2.5 – 3 hours to complete all the 9 holes. A deposit fee of CHF 10.00 per person is required , in cash when you pick up the equipment at the ‘Tourist Information’ ( Bahnhofstrasse 32, 7001 Chur ) . The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 soft ball, 1 “bäseli” and 1 lanyard. The deposit will be returned when the equipment is returned. 

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or Saint Mary of the Assumption Cathedral is a Catholic Church borne of the perfect marriage of Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. Perched high up on a hillside, surrounded by lush vineyards, the Episcopal Court contains both the 800 year old Cathedral and its neighbouring Bishop’s Palace. Dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary the stunning golden Gothic altar contrasts with the exterior – a nod to Eastern influences shaping its construction due to its proximity to major ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral is three naved and it’s central nave is fashioned from rock from Scalära. The portal of the main entryway is bolstered by six columns that are held aloft by six coloured archways. Notable interior features of the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the carved choir and the spectacular stained glass arched window. 

3. St. Martin’s Church

The Gothic spire of St Martin’s Church leaves an indelible impression on the skyline of Old Town Chur due to its character and the longevity of its existence in Chur. Built in the eighth century in tribute to St Martin, Bishop of Tours, the once Romanesque Church was burnt down in 1464 and rebuilt in the Gothic design. An ethereal feature of the Church is the more recent addition of three stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower, with pointed black spire is a convenient landmark in the centre of town and the view from the church tower of Old Town and the surrounds shouldn’t be missed. 

4. Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum is devoted to the history and culture of the surrounding area, i.e. the Graubinden Canton. It is a treasure chest of ethnographic, archeological and sociological finds and information. This permanent exhibition is spread over four floors of the Baroque museum building, originally built in 1675, which is a piece of history in itself. Young children can benefit from a visit to the museum too. A fun way to learn about each of the exhibits from a child’s perspective is to pick up a special key from the ticketing office. Each room in the museum contains a locked box, which when opened with the key reveals information about the history of individual exhibits. Not only is this a good way to impart knowledge from a different angle, it also makes each child feel extremely special. 

There is a small museum shop that proudly displays carefully curated gifts and souvenirs. The museum is mostly wheelchair accessible. 

Prices for tickets start at 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for pensioners and students while children under 16 can visit for free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

5. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Only a two minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graunünden, spanning over three hundred years. The beautiful heritage building, Villa Planta, is graced by a recent extension – designed by Barozzi Veiga and the combined unit, spread over 1200 square metres is home to 8000 pieces of art. The museum with has strong focus on contemporary art featuring artists that have a strong connection to Graubünden like Angelika Kauffmann, the artist family Giacometti, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the artist group ‘Rot-Blau.’

Entry fee for adults is 15 CHF for adults while kids under 16 go free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

6. Explore the Street Art

Chur is home to the most renowned street artists in the world, BANE. You can find his murals, astonishing in terms of scale and detail, spread across the city. 

Unmissable works include Mühleturm , the ”creative landmark” of Chur and the largest mural painting in Switzerland and “I have a dream” ( 2015) which he painted with the street artist Pest.

7. Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier 

Directly above Chur and easily reached by cable car, Brambrüesch is a hikers paradise in summer with glorious meadows filled with diverse Alpine Flora and incredible panoramic views of the mountains that encircle Arosa, the Schanfigg and the Lenzerheide. The trail starts off with a quite pleasant and scenic walk through the forest to the Malixer Alp. If you haven’t haven’t had lunch you have the option of dining in the Bergbaiz which serves hearty, fine local Alpine cuisine for affordable prices. After a relatively gentle hike, it gets more scenic and interesting as you ascend higher to the Galti-Alp. This is the highest point of the hike and the surrounding views are spectacular here. For someone who is a hiking novice and a bit afraid of heights, I really enjoyed the hike despite some initial fears. The range of flora and fauna, the views -truly is a unique experience. It is a gradual decent into Pradaschier where the cosy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its glorious sun terrace offers visitors a chance to unwind with a drink or some enjoy some hearty Graubünden fare like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the descent to Churwalden via a spectacular toboggan ride- three kilometers long and with 31 bends, some of them hairpin curves, this toboggan ride is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest track-guided railway in Europe. The toboggan ride down is 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for kids from ages 13-17 and 9 CHF for kids under 13.

Note: If you have the Guest Card Chur, you get 50% off the ascent and decent on the  Chur-Brambrüesch cableways.

Where to eat in Chur 

I will be publishing next a more comprehensive guide on where to eat and drink but here a few tips. If you are looking for traditional homemade Italian cuisine at an affordable price then Da Mamma’s is the place to come. Fixed price 2 course vegetarian lunch menu is just 16.30 CHF is one of the best value lunch deals in town. If you love South Indian/ Tamil cuisine, then you should also pop into Yaal for their lunchtime buffet which start at just 19.90 CHF. Next door neighbour to the Bogentrakt Hostel, Kostbar, where you have a good mix of local food like the Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort food like burgers and curries. Prices start from 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers a range of salads, sandwiches and snacks at affordable prices. For example, a salad nicoise costs 8.50 CHF. Last but not least, try Wok and Momo, a tibetan run diner with a range of dishes , from their excellent value stir fry wok noodles ( from 7 CHF) to momos ( 18.50 CHF).

Special mention must go to Polenta 7000, a summer pop up festival run by local creatives and kindred spirits where visitors can enjoy delicious food ( Chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF) concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, open air cinema, childrens circus. The season wraps up on 26th September 2023 but keep your eye out on the Polenta 7000 website for next summers pop up.

Best Day Trips from Chur 

Chur to Tirano with the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a must if you are visiting Chur.  The train traverses one of the world’s most spectacular and scenic routes, providing passengers with a mesmerising, once in a lifetime travel experience. Starting in the Chur, the Bernina Express glides up the Swiss Engadin Alps to culminate its journey at the Italian city of Tirano. The train spans an astonishing 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, winds up high altitude mountain passes, passes glaciers, alpine lakes, twists around spiral viaducts, skirting glaciers and hopping over country borders. Highlights of the journey include the soaring Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2253 metres, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct an architectural marvel, with some of the most jaw dropping scenery in the stretch between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm gauge is fully electrified and uses 7% gradients to negotiate sharp differences in heights. The panorama cars offer an immersive travelling experience for passengers and enable them to drink in the sights and take photos and videos to their heart’s content. Audio guides in a variety of languages are also available describing the surroundings. 

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines on the Bernina Express were declared World Heritage Sites in 2008. The Albula line  runs from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. The Bernina Line from Pontresina ascends the valley to the heights of the Bernina Pass. South of the Alps, the train traverses glaciers, lakes and mountains and then proceeds eventually towards the Swiss Italian border, to end at Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps, and somehow manages year-round travel, despite thick snow drifts in deep midwinter.

Where to stay in Chur on a budget

Bogentrakt Hostel 

One of my main hostel finds of the year was this beautiful new design hostel in the picturesque town of Chur, the oldest  inhabited town in Switzerland. It is one of those rare hostels which is really embedded in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made so many friends across the city. Chur is that kind of place where locals are super friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel, set in the heart of Chur against the scenic backdrop of vineyards, has a dark history and used to be the “toughest prison in Switzerland. Owner Marco Leibundgut transformed it into a vibrant hostel, giving the historic building a new lease of life.. The hostel’s name, “Bogentrakt,”is  a German word that translates to “curved wing” or “arched wing” and pays homage to the prison’s distinct curved structure.

Old, former prison cells have been tastefully converted into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colourful history of the prison and former inmates via QR codes and pictures which are visible throughout the hostel. 

The facilities are brilliant and perfect for nomads- dedicated coworking space at no extra charge, a really nice guest kitchen which guests can use to cook from ( handy given how expensive eating out is in Switzerland) plus a common room with a library, board games and also a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel also helps with your laundry which is very handy. The hostel reception has a drinks kiosk with local drinks and a beer on tap if you are feeling thirsty. There is also a small shop with local products, food essentials, everyday body products in case you run out during your stay. Hostel organises dinners and also has plans for hostel happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. The hostel also has a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar which is nice to have a beer and relax, especially in the summer months when the terrace is open. The Sennhof, the original complex where the hostel is located is also home to local designers, a beautiful flower shop and also an art gallery so you really feel a sense of community and being part of the everyday life of the town.

There is a range of beautiful hikes and nature within a short distance of the hostel so that is another big plus for staying here. Room rates start from 32 CHF per bed per night, Doubles from 99 CHF per room, per night. There is a special prices of 399 CHF for a weeks stay, booking directly via the hostel website.

There is a 10% discount for BudgetTraveller readers who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel: Please quote BUDGETTRAVELLER when booking. Plus anyone who books with my code will also receive a free mystery local drink on arrival.

Free Guest Card Chur

It is worth again reminding that anyone staying overnight at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur will be eligible for free the Guest Card Chur which gives you access to a wonderful range of benefits which include:-

1. Free use of public transport in the TransReno fare network, Zone 1 (2nd Class). Not valid for bikes and dogs. Valid after check-in. Bernina Express and Glacier Express is not included.

      2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the outdoor swimming pool Sand

      3. Free entry to the local museums: Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History, Graubünden Art Museum

      4.Chur-Brambrüesch cableways: Visitors get a 50% discount on the ascent and descent 25% discount on bike day tickets              (Alpenbikepark Chur and bike day ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). To get your ticket please show your guest card at the               cableways ticket office. The tickets of the guest cards are valid up to and including 5 pm. The evening rides and the rides             on 1 August are not included.

Best things to do in Chur: FAQ

Disclaimer

I was invited to Chur as a guest of Bogentrakt Hostel and Chur Tourismus. However, all the opinions, good and bad are  entirely mine.

The perfect time to visit Bregenz is during their famed summer Bregenz Festival, where superlative operatic performances take place on a floating lakeside stage. Even though we missed the festival, we had the chance to see the spectacular floating lakeside stage.In 2023, Giacomo Puccini’s Madame Butterfly will be performed on the lake stage on a total of 25 evenings. 

1. Captain for a day- Explore Lake Constance on a motor boat

If the weather is nice, then I would highly recommend renting one of the boat from the gondola harbour, between the Fischersteg and the Festspielhaus. It is a tad expensive but a brilliant way to get a nice perspective of the Bregenz skyline and the Pfander mountain towering in the background. You have the choice of renting electric, pedal and motor boats from the boat rental company Feurstein. The best and most fun option in my  opinion is to choose the motor boats which are equipped with a 6 hp outboard engine and can be driven without a skipper’s license. All information and frequently asked questions can be found on their website. The boat rental is open daily from April to October, weather permitting, until sunset. In rainy weather, the boat rental remains close.

2. Alternative: Hire a bike

If time permits, another great way to explore Lake Constance is to of course explore the 270 km circumference via the challenging and impressive “Bodensee Rundwanderweg” ( Celebrates 40 years in existence this year!) , or Lake Constance Trail. It is possible to circumnavigate the entire lake in chunks, ( Lindau is just 36 km away) roughly four to seven stages by bike. The trail is of medium difficulty with an ascent and descent of just about 400 metres each.  Another option is of course to hop on one of the boats  operated by Vorarlberg Lines that will take you across the Lake and then back to Bregenz or drop you off at other points of the lake.

3. Hop on the Pfänderbahn cable car

If you have a short stopover in Bregenz like us, do make time to go to the top of the Pfänder mountain -offering stunning views of the city,  Lake Constance and over 240 Alpine peaks of Austria, Germany and Switzerland combined, it really is some view. To enjoy the view, hop onto the Pfänderbahn cable car (Tickets for a return ride is €13.60 for adults, €6.80 for kids – 6-15 years- and €27.20 for a family ticket) On the top there is a panoramic restaurant from where you can enjoy the views while supping on a cold beer.

4. Bregenz Culture Mile- Say hello to Kunsthaus Bregenz

Also recommend a wee meander along the Bregenz culture mile which has an incredible mix of old and new architecture. The walk should include a visit to the uber-modern KUB  aka Kunsthaus Bregenz museum for contemporary art.( Standard adult tickets costs €11, concessions €9. Combined ticket to KUB and vorarlberg museum is €17, €12 for under 25’s). A rota of revolving exhibitions means that there is always something new to see here. Illustrious exhibitions that have been hosted here in the past include those of Warhol, Weiwei and Antony Gormley.

5. Vorarlberg Museum

The vorarlberg museum, ( Regular tickets €9, Concessions €7 ) another stunning modern building, is the repository of the state’s art and cultural treasures. The collections here dig deep into the realms of archeology, folklore, art history and much more.

Where to eat in Bregenz

Lunch: Pier 69

The lakeside setting of Pier 69 is unbeatable, service is fab plus the food is a nice mix of modern European fare with dishes ranging from seafood paella to potato gnocchi with basil pesto. Their set lunch menu offer incredible value.

Lunch at Kunstler Cafe

Right on the Kornmarktplatz, next to the Kunstahaus is the Kunstler Cafe which came recommended to us by one of the ladies at the weekly farmers market. There is a very laidback atmosphere at the cafe with a nice mix of friendly locals who were great to chat to and filled with great suggestions of what to do in the area. As the name suggests, the cafe also doubles up as a platform for local artists who can display their work for free. The art being, using art too stimulate conversation between guests at the cafe. In the past, the cafe has hosted exhibitions with various wild themes ranging from shoe throwing at ex-president George W. Bush” when 100 pairs of shoes dangled from the coffee house ceiling aimed at a  picture of the former president. 

There is nice selection of food, from sandwiches to cold cuts of meat and cheese alongside a drinks menu. The coffee is sourced from a local coffee roasting company Kaffeebohne in Dornbirn. The owner froze the price of an espresso at €1.90 five years ago, determined to offer his guests fair and consistent prices with quality.

Sample Vorarlberg cheese at Fredi’s Kaselade

One of the highlights of any trip to Voralberg is trying the rich variety of cheese specilities the region is famous for. 60% of milk produced in Vorarlberg is used to make cheese specialities. Centuries of craftsmanship and modern production combine to create Vorarlberg cheese’s unique character. Examples of great local cheeses you should sample include the Alp Cheese, Mountain Cheese, Cream Cheese and Sura Kees which are all made from goat’s or sheep’s milk.

A great place to bite into Vorarlberg cheese culture in Bregenz is Fredis Kaselade.

Try the Obstkuchen at Theater Cafe

This cafe came recommended from patrons of the Kunstler Cafe. It is a very stylish and cozy cafe located in historical centre of Bregenz, like the Kunstler on the Kornmarktplatz. Service was fantastic and besides good coffee, hot chocolate they are know for their cakes-try their poppy seed strudel or excellent freshly baked tarts like ‘Obstkuchen’ – apple tart.

Further resources

Checkout my new guide to the best things to do in Feldkirch, my earlier guide of the best things to do in Vorarlberg and also my story of Vorarberg’s mesmerising architectural heritage.

Disclaimer

I was invited to the Bregenz and Vorarlberg by the Vorarlberg Tourism Board . As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Katharina Fa, Katrin Preuss and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for showing us your beautiful home and making our time there memorable. 

Feldkirch marks the westernmost point of Austria, right on the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein. It is your archetype postcard pretty Austrian town with a well preserved old town that has remained unchanged for centuries, crowned by the glorious Schattenberg Castle and the Gothic-style cathedral of St. Nikolaus.

It is a city that you can easily visit in a day thanks to its very pedestrian friendly centre packed with numerous cafes, restaurants and bars. It also is a perfect base to explore Vorarlberg- Feldkirch railway station lies on the main railway line through the state with regular inter-city services to Zurich and Vienna. Whether you wish to spend a few hours or longer, to help you make the most of your trip, I’ve created a guide to some of the best things to do in Feldkirch, based around local tips I received on my recent trip to the city.

Unusual facts about Feldkirch

The city has a special connection to the Irish writer James Joyce. The unusual connection starts around 1915, when Joyce was mistaken for a spy at the border check in Feldkirch. With the help of friends with connections, Joyce gets released but the incident left its mark on Joyce and subsequently, influenced his most important work, Finnegans Wake. Joyce returned to Feldkirch in the summer of 1932 with the help of publisher couple Maria and Eugene Jolas. Joyce stayed for several weeks at the Hotel Löwen where he wrote Finnegans Wake.

Best things to do in Feldkirch

1. Cool architecture- Montforthaus Feldkirch

If you’re an architecture nerd, you will love Vorarlberg and especially the Montforthaus in Feldkirch. Standing on the edge of the town and looming under the watchful gaze of the Schattenburg castle lies the Montforthaus with its beautiful rounded facades. Built in 2015 on the former location of a congress centre from the 1970s, this modern new building designed by the Berlin architects Hascher Jehle and the Vorarlberg architect Mitiska/Wäger Architekten replaced an architectural dinosaur that had become stylistically and functionally outdated. It is a stunning building that really integrates well with its medieval surroundings thanks to the large glass front.

The Montforthaus is open during the day, a tour or a visit to the restaurant with roof terrace is always possible and worthwhile. In the evening there are many events on the programme.

2. Climb to the top -Schattenburg Castle and Museum

To get a nice aerial perspective of the city, we climbed up to the medieval Schattenburg castle, the once upon a time residence of the Duke of Montfort. Housing a restaurant, the castle also features a museum. Spread across 18 rooms, each room focussing on a different side to the city’s history. The museum ticket also gives guests access to the castle chapel and to the keep. The best part is the panoramic view of the city from the rooftop gallery.

3. Feldkirch Old Town

We arrived late in the evening, dropped our bags and spent a good hour roaming the medieval heart of the city with its winding , cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved period buildings. It was late in the evening on a Sunday so we had the whole place to ourselves and it was the perfect start to the trip. The main heart of the Old Town is Marktgasse where the twice weekly market takes place and also the annual Christmas market.

4. Wildpark Feldkirch

If you are visiting with family and young ones, the local Wildpark ( € Free to enter ) with several marked forest trails is a perfect start to the day. There are over 140 animals located in the park within large enclosures. The park also features a huge adventure playground for the wee ones plus there is a kiosk onsite selling various drinks and food.

5. Buddhist Monastery Letzehof

One of the more unusual and cool things to do in Feldkrich is to pay a visit to the Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of the town. It is a good hour hike but once you reach the monastery, it really feels a world away from the city with the Tibetan payer flags fluttering in the wind and the glorious dome of the Buddhist stupa glistening in the sunshine. The Letzehof or ‘Getznerhof’, as it was also called at that time was a farm till the estate became a refuge for monks from Tibet in 1982. Tibetan monk Gesche Rabten Rinpoche founded the monastery and study centre and a year later the Dalai Lama visited. 

6.Paspels Badesee

We visited Paspels Badesee on the recommendation of a local and wow, this lake was stunning. We timed our visit perfectly before sunset. It was an early Autumn evening and the weather was still warm and there was gaggle of locals bathing in the lake. Beside a large sunbathing area on the banks there’s a wee biergarten- the Seeblick-Stüble, which serves a range of hot and cold snacks plus beer on draft. Sunset was perfect, so if the weather is nice, come in the evening and don’t forget your bathing costume. Public toilets are also available.

Where to eat in Feldkirch

7. Lunch at La Bottega del Gusto

Tucked away in the heart of the old town is a little slice of Italian heaven. The owner and chef Nico is a man of few words and there is no set menu here. The menu is simple with a few suggestions -everything we tasted here was delicious. For €9.95 for 2 courses including a glass of wine, this is a cracking bargain.

8. Coffee at Backerei Mangold

Feldkirch is blessed with a bunch of independent cafes and bakeries but we really liked Backerei Mangold, a home grown family run chain of bakeries in 30 locations across Vorarlberg, dating back to 1850. Their bread has won numerous awards and they serve great pastries, cakes plus good coffee. Definitely worth a visit.

9. Dinner at Restaurant Kantine

If you are a sucker for stone baked thin Napolitan style pizza you will love Kantine- best pizza in the area.The appetisers are really good, especially the grilled Cauliflower in the oven-very tasty. 

Where to stay in Feldkirch

10. Night Inn Feldkirch

Conveniently located next to the train station, the Night Inn Hotel is a modern, comfortable option with stylish rooms ( some with views onto the train station where you can sit by the window and see the trains come and go, if that’s your kind of jam ) and also a very decent buffet breakfast. Staff are a mixed bag-some friendly and some bit cold, impersonal but that could be the language barrier.

Getting there and away to Feldkirch

The nearest airport to Feldkirch is Zürich while Stuttgart is an option too. Swiss Railways (SBB/CFF/FFS) operates a train from Zürich HB to Feldkirch hourly. Tickets start from €44 and the journey takes 1h 29m. Alternatively, FlixBus operates a bus from Flughafen/Messe to Bregenz bus station twice daily.

Further resources

Checkout my earlier guide of the best things to do in Vorarlberg and also my story of Vorarberg’s mesmerising architectural heritage.

Disclaimer

I was invited to the Feldkirch by the Vorarlberg Tourism Board . As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Katharina Fa, Katrin Preuss and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for showing us your beautiful home and making our time there memorable.